Rear wheel bearings on a F800GS

I was wondering if anyone here has done theirs?
I put a new tire on yesterday (K60) and while I had the wheel off "felt" the bearings. They have a "notchy" feel and while not at a crisis level, I am going to do them- once I round up the removal tool, the bearings and the seals.
I know there has been reported problems with the bearings and there is, as usual, 100+ pages about this over at ADV. After looking through the 100+ pages it's not real clear however I do have a better Idea of what is up.
It's kinda interesting that a lot of the recommendations is to grease the new sealed bearings. I've done this to get by but perhaps they are on to something.
Anyway, if you have this bike, I think it's a good thing to check.
You can read either side of This Thread at ADV and check it out. I focused on pg.97 as it had a number(s) that I should be able to reference locally. It looks like Woody's Wheels is shipping brand new opened and greased bearings- interesting concept.
My bike has just shy of 13,000 miles.
Gary

An old habit of always feeling bearings when putting on new tires at 13K, led me to the same ADVrider thread. As mentioned the bores in my hub were undersize. Being an old farmer, having a trip coming up and no way to get them to a machine shop, I did a home made fix. I have a Dremel with a cable, so I got a new fine flap wheel attachment, set the dremel on low speed, and proceeded to "hone" the hub bores using the sound of the load on the motor to gauge pressure consistency. Got them to the proper size, and replaced the bearings using the heat gun, freezer method. 11K later they feel like new still. BTW, I did add grease to the bearing, it may not help, but cannot hurt.

How much trouble was it to get the old bearings out, and how (what tool) did you use. Did you purchase your bearings and the 2 seals local or OEM?
As an old farmer myself, I can get through a lot of things but, as most things are easier the 2nd time, there is nothing like experience. I'm hoping there is no bore size problem and when you get to a thread like the one at ADV, it's sometimes hard to stay on the "OEM track" if you know what I mean.
TIA.

I just used a length of 3/8 stainless round stock as I remember. You can get a better bite on the bearing, than you can with a large tapered drift punch. Once you move one a little, the spacer will til and allow you to drive it out easily. I don't remember any real hassle. I did get high quality bearings from a local supply house.

After spending some time to filter the ADV thread, and measuring mine, my guess is that the fit it too tight, Once removed my old bearings felt fine even after beating them out, and had plenty of grease. I think the real problem is the fit. Are you still in warranty? It seems some have been successful getting replacement hubs from BMW.

PS, as I remember the best info in the ADV thread is from Woody.

pffog said:

I just used a length of 3/8 stainless round stock as I remember. You can get a better bite on the bearing, than you can with a large tapered drift punch. Once you move one a little, the spacer will til and allow you to drive it out easily. I don't remember any real hassle.

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That's how I've been doing wheel/hub bearings for years, even have my fav-o-rite brass drift

I did get high quality bearings from a local supply house.

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Looks like I can get them out of Boston- think I have found them through the Action Bearing site. I'd like to find something with some longevity.

After spending some time to filter the ADV thread, and measuring mine, my guess is that the fit it too tight, Once removed my old bearings felt fine even after beating them out, and had plenty of grease. I think the real problem is the fit. Are you still in warranty? It seems some have been successful getting replacement hubs from BMW.

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Yeah filtering and figuring what's still on track is sometimes a chore in a thread like that.
Interesting that the (your) bearings felt OK after removal. Mine actually don't feel horrible now but do feel dry.

PS, as I remember the best info in the ADV thread is from Woody.

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Everything I hear about Woody's sounds first rate. It sounds like he has a kit for around $100.00 to do the whole bike.
Normally on something like this, as I don't think the parts are expensive, I get some extras in case of.....well I'm sure you know
That Tusk collet system looks good for removal of the bearings.
OM

Did my rear ones, around 20K iirc. Bought from local bearing supply house. Bearings and seals for both F & R were significantly less than OEM from BMW. Got bearing info from one of the ADV threads, but have that info at home if you need it. Did not use any special tools, just drifted the bearings out. Easier done than said.
Mine felt gritty, both on and off the bike. Fronts still feel fine at 33K (just put on a new tire a few weeks ago and checked them then).

i was told to look for bearings from an Eastern bloc country (Czech, Polish, Romanian, etc), NOT Chinese.

Cool
Just ordered 6 bearings and 6 seals which gives me extras on everything in case
I think I'll try that re-pack of new bearings deal
I also ordered a Tusk expanding collet bearing remover, again, just in case.
All should be here by Thursday.
OM

Comrades in Bulgaria have made to me new SKF Bearings delivered through agent Action Bearing in Boston.
Got the seals as well.
Waiting on blind bearing puller and some time
OM

The reading and research that I have done suggests that opening a new sealed bearing will result in "where's the grease", it seems so. I will add some high-end bearing grease to give it a chance.

Well, I started on the drive side (chain), I did the bearing in the drive hub and it really didn't feel too bad when I took it out. I did the bearing in the wheel hub (next one in from the drive hub) next. Same thing really not bad, perhaps a little worn. I was beginning to question my initial diagnosis but I can't stop at this point- so on to the third bearing.

The third bearing is the one at the brake rotor and through the/my readings, the one most was having trouble with. Yep, I caught this just in time. The bearing had really lost it's ability to be a bearing as when you put a finger in the axel hole (to hold the center) and then tried to spin the outside- almost not possible.

When this happens a couple of things can happen, 1) the outer bearing can start to be dragged in it's "fit". 2) the bearing rollers and cage end up dragging themselves through each other in effect "grenading" and ending up with pieces on the ground.

I can now really recommend riders check their wheels/bearings by whatever method you have. If your not sure how to take your wheel(s) off, the Globerider DVD is an excellent way to learn and see how it's done.

I can also recommend the Tusk blind bearing removal tool as it was a big help. It's not really made for day in day out use but for the rider/owner it's fine.
OM

Thread Bump

Had recently posted a reminder about front wheel bearings on other models. Have replaced a few sets this season.

Over four years since any posting here, and without re-reading the long ADV thread, has anything changed in bearing size/hub issues? A late build 11/13 F800GSADV with 17K arrived in a U-haul recently with a shrieking metallic noise...sounded like a bearing to me and confirmed. Rear wheel, Rotor side. Will add the ugly picture when I can.

I am leery about the low cost options on ebay and such for three bearings and seals. Not opposed to OEM replacements at all, however you never really know that source chain either anymore and perceived/experienced early failure rates on this F-series. Wondering what latest options are?

Here is the order I placed. It has an extra bearing and an extra of each seal. This is enough for front and back. I have only done the rear so far.
You should be at least able to use the (SKF) numbers for reference.
OM

Thanks, that will work.

My brain on overload from a long week of sitting and reading, did you have fitment issues?
The freeze and heat method has served me well lately and reading of folks needing to press or wham them in just sounds messed up if the machinig is correct, which is questionable.

I don’t remember anything odd or heat/cold. On the rear, there is three bearings.......one on the chain/gear side, one on which would be the left side of the actual hub/rim and one on the outer rim/hub.
The hub has a “pipe” spacer- which is what I first felt as a rough bearing.
I did buy a “blind” bearing puller.....think it was a Tusk from Rocky Mountain ATV. I think you can do the job without the puller but it will be a long reach across the hub (left to right) to drift it out.
HTH
OM

Yeah, have the puller and have a bad feeling about the spacer tube...they get destroyed when a bearing looks this bad on the front R and K's with them

Hopefully, pull "good" bearing and drift whats left of the outer shell out of bad rotor side...which is familiar due to recent finds.

Seeing two different BMW part numbers for the three bearings. The two in wheel hub are same, but superseded at some point , the sprocket carrier has a diff number for the bearing. No dimensions on that bearing. The other two are 20x47x14

WoW!
Mine were just rough. Good you caught it in time. Can you read the number off the (any) seal? May have to go OEM....I would still check to see if there was grease inside the sealed bearing.
OM

The seals were both so worn, not legible

Have a question on the spacer tube. There are serrations on only one side and so much powdered aluminum inside the hub, thinking it ground down. Do you recall serrations on both ends? The other end of tube seems square with no noticeable rough edges...but that is a lot of aluminum debris


The still intact bearing from the hub has some grease, but not what I would call sufficient




Sorry, best shots at moment

I don’t remember any serration on the spacer. It just seemed like a random piece of tube separating the bearings.
I will say my parts, while bad,looked brand new compared to what you have taken apart.
Mileage on the bike?
OM

Omega Man said:

I don’t remember any serration on the spacer. It just seemed like a random piece of tube separating the bearings.
I will say my parts, while bad,looked brand new compared to what you have taken apart.
Mileage on the bike?
OM

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17K! Seems very low. A lot of rust in bearing recess when I pulled the "good" one as well.

Have seen some high mileage failing bearings, this one by far the worst for what to me is low miles.

The tube is a $40 part, but not having the correct measurement has me planning on replacing. Not one in stock at local dealers to compare.