Killswitch for ALL lights...? Crazy? Doable?

So I am wanting to wire in a killswitch for all the lights on my bike. I'll soon be doing some traveling in Central and South America, and the idea of being able to disappear if I need is highly appealing to me.

Anyone done this to one of their bikes before? Thoughts? Just looking for some input

Bike? Model?Year?

Anything is possible but mods to wiring harness will be be required.

Controlling the load relief relay coil comes to mind first, not that difficult.

Sorry, its a 95 R1100GS

The headlight and rear lights (brake and taillight) are running on different circuits, I kinda want to keep them that way. Might not matter, but if it didn't, why would BMW have them separate?

Just received my new Fuzeblock [www.fuzeblocks.com], so I'll be tearing into the wiring here in the next couple days to route the switch(es?). Really wanting to know of anyone who has done this before, since it will be a first for me, and I haven't had much luck searching for information

This is easy.

Only the USA and maybe Canada bikes have no headlight switch.

Just fit the BMW switch used on rest of world bikes--easily plugs in and works.

See the blank on right switch module.

See your dealer.

That blacked out bike is amazing!

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I had a car with all but the headlights switch and a brake lite kill. I found it advantageous, very much so. That was 35 years ago. I do not think I would do that now.
Rod

Back in the day I had a GPz 750 that I bought used. Not sure if it was supposed to do this but after start you could turn the key back 1/2 a ntch & the engine would run but the electrics would not work. Used it a couple times after being stupid in front of cops at night to evade. I was a young stupid kid.

But good luck on the project, Im sure you will ride safer blacked out than I did.

Alright, I've got my big boy pants on, so I'm prepared to get lit up here, but lets just pretend I know absolutely nothing for the benefit of anyone else who might be checking this thread out (but mostly for me, cuz I don't really know much)

I've edited this wiring schematic for the GS with extra yellow lines for emphasis on the grounds I think would be the best to tap into. I don't think it could be this simple, but from what I've mapped out here, what else am I missing? Or is it really that simple?
From what I've been able to find, it sounds like I would need at least a 20amp relay to run the headlights through to the killswitch. With this setup I've drafted, I think I could tie it all in to one switch (as opposed to needing two separate switches: one for front lights, one for rear)

Fire away

Switching negative must be done very carefully. You end up putting devices in series, some of which may required to run the bike.
A mulitpole relay switching selected positives is a better design.

I have to agree with lkchris, buy the Euro switch. Probably cost less than the fuzeblock. It will give you the control you want without the need to compromise the wiring harness. The switch has an 'off' and two 'on' positions. I believe the standard settings are 1> everything off, 2> instruments, tail light, and RID on, 3> headlight on in addition. I have mine wired so the headlight is on in the first 'on' position, and the driving lights are added in the second 'on'. If you want to black out the brake light (why?), wrap a towel or something around it as desired.

#2 includes the park light in the headlight and is basically same as park lights on any car.