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2014 R1200GSW: how to rotate handlebar control pods?

CRUZER

New member
Ok, I give up. In getting things adjusted for me on my new wethead GS I can't figure out how to rotate the handlebar switch modules. I especially need the left on rotated down a bit. Can anyone advise on this?
 
I don't have a wethead, but I wonder if the controls might be mounted as they are on my '07 R12R.

R12R Left Side:

The clutch lever (including the master cylinder and reservoir) has its own clamp, and can be rotated around the bar. The mirror stalk screws into the clamp; if the clutch lever is rotated around the bar, the mirror stalk moves with it.

The left handgrip is mounted on a plastic tube; the tube slips over the end of the handlebar, and is held in place by two self-tapping screws through the end of the tube into the handlebar. The tube also has a tab on the inside end. The switch module is screwed to the tab. At least on the R12R, the switch module's position is fixed by its connection to the tab; it can't be rotated on the bar unless the grip's plastic tube is also moved, which would require new tapped holes for the two self-tapping screws.

R12R Right Side:

Similar to the left: the brake assembly (lever, master cylinder, reservoir) mounts with its own clamp; the mirror stalk screws into it. Dissimilar to the left: the throttle assembly is notched to fit next to the switch module in one orientation (I think there's a tab and slot), but the two units (moving together) can be rotated about the bar. I don't remember which (throttle or switch module) has the clamp.

For me, the angle of the brake and clutch levers was most important, so I set them first. Then I did the best I could with the switch modules, which was limited. On both sides, removing the back cover of the switch modules (that is, the plastic pieces that cover the forward sides of the modules, held by place by small Torx screws) reveals the clamps and electrical connections.
 
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R12R Left Side:

The clutch lever (including the master cylinder and reservoir) has its own clamp, and can be rotated around the bar. The mirror stalk screws into the clamp; if the clutch lever is rotated around the bar, the mirror stalk moves with it.

The left handgrip is mounted on a plastic tube; the tube slips over the end of the handlebar, and is held in place by two self-tapping screws through the end of the tube into the handlebar. The tube also has a tab on the inside end. The switch module is screwed to the tab. At least on the R12R, the switch module's position is fixed by its connection to the tab; it can't be rotated on the bar unless the grip's plastic tube is also moved, which would require new tapped holes for the two self-tapping screws.

I haven't removed the handguard so as to see inside the left handlebar end, but the tab index you describe must be it. So I can't rotate the switch module down then is the bottom line, darn, but thanks for the help.
 
Gently pull back the lip of the rubber grip on the left side about 3-4 mm. You'll see a screw that goes into the handlebar. The head of the screw will be approximately in line with the plastic molding just above the turn signal switch. I believe that locks the entire assembly to the handlebars. I haven't removed the screw to see if making a new hole is feasible.
 
The screw that Marc points out is one of the two self-tapping screws that fasten the plastic tube to the bar; the other screw is 180゜around the circumference of the bar.
 
On my wethead ('13 GS) there is only one screw. It is a LONG screw that apparently goes through the handlebar and threads into a nut on the far side of the assembly. I see the screw on one side and the nut/end-of-the-screw 180 degrees around the circumference when peeling the rubber back a few mm with my thumb.
 
Take over, Marc! Apparently the screwing is different on the Wetheads, 'tho the switch pod may still mount to a tab as it does on the Hexes.
 
Thanks very much guys, very helpful, now I understand how it works. Frankly for the 10? rotation I need I think I'll just learn to live with it the way it is. Clocking it 45? or so would likely be easy, likely just drill another hole, such a small adjustment would not.

Again, thanks!
 
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