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Ask if the bike has been sitting or if it's been driven regularly. (driven is better)
Ask to look inside the fuel tank. Open filler cap, remove 4 phillips screws that hold flange to tank, lift flange and cap assembly off insuring not to getr fuel drops on paint. What you're looking for is evidence of the rubber fuel pump damper being dissolved by bad gas. Is the inside of the tank shiny aluminum or does it have a tan or brown tint to it (sign of possible damper deterioration). The pump is on the left side. You might be able to reach in and run your finger against the little bit of the rubber that is between the white plastic pump holder and the aluminum shelf that holds the pump assembly. It should be firm, not gooey and not leave a stain on your finger.
Does the bike downshift easily in the higher gears (5-4,4-3) without noticable pressure on the lever and without blipping the throttle. If not, could be sign of dry or worn clutch splines.
Ask when the last valve adjustment was done and when the rear splines were last lubed. Ask if he has the receipt for the spline lube. If he says that he did it himself, ask him to show you the rear splines (remove final drive) before you finalize the deal. Worn out rear splines from lack of lube can cost between $400, for used replacement, and $1000 for remachined not counting the labor to change the parts.
If it has ABS, make sure it works properly. No warning lights on the dash after riding off and tapping front and rear brake to clear the bulb monitor. On a straight clear road or parking lot, stomp on the rear brake at about 20 mph. If the rear brake shudders (pulses) without just locking up solid, then the ABS should be working.
Check that the gear indicator works correctly.
Do the odometer and speedometer appear to work correctly.
If you buy it, or if you just want something to use to talk him down in price $25-50, check the crankcase vent hose for cracks. The hose is a black rubber hose about 5/8" in diameter molded in a sort of Z shape. It is located on the left side of the engine just to the rear of the throttlebodies and just to the front of the black plastic coil cover. It's in past the throttlebodies but is visible if you get down on your knees. These are notorious for cracking every couple of years right next to each of the two hose clamps. When they crack, they leak oil mist, but worse, they cause the engine to run lean from unmetered air being sucked in (not good). The hose costs $16 from the dealer and is easy to change, but if it is cracked, it shows he wasn't as on top of maintenance as he had been telling you. Also check the vacuum caps on the base of the forward two throttlebodies for cracks for the same lean mixtur reason.
If the rear splines are good (nice flat topped teeth) and it appears to run well and all the controls and lights work, most everything else is pretty easy to fix.
You can certainly remove the ABS control unit.. it has nothing to do with the speedo. The wiring harness might be a tad more difficult since it's part of the main harness of the bike - not a separate harness. There are some short sections that might be removed, but I doubt if the gain is worth the effort.Hello again.
I played with the brick a little today. Since I removed the ABS can I remove the ABS control unit and the wiring harness or is it needed for the speedometer? Also somebody here has a set of gears for he odometer for sale from K100. Is there any difference between K100 and K75 as far as the instrument clusters go (odometer gears specifically)
There is a sensor on the final drive. If your speedo is not working, that is also why the odometer is not working. If your self canceling turn indicators don't cancel as well, the problem is the sensor.
Speedo is working odo is not so I guess its the gears.
What is up with the side cases? Lock here lock there lock everywhere and to take off is an exercise in 3D geometry. What am I missing?
Also when you put the bike on a side stand it leans a little more than I would like. Is there a pad that goes on the foot. There are two holes.
Should the temperature light and fuel light come on for the light check at startup?
Esmir