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Stumped - r1150r won't start

Now we are here.


View attachment 44001

Sorry for the picture. Maybe you can download and enlarge.

There are four wires in this connector I am assuming it is under the tank somewhere, follow the wiring.
This is the kill switch. If you find the connector jumper two terminals in the harness pin 9 jumpered to pin 2. That should give you your kill switch "delete"
Other people are welcome to comment if they have intimate knowledge about where this connector is.

Can't make out the picture even after downloading. I need to go back out and take the tank off again, but if you think the connector is under there, I'll give it a shot.
 
Big Honkin Diode

Still on that little tangent... please note my addendum to my earlier post...

Where on the schematic should that Big diode be, and which way does it face? I don't see it on any of mine...
Thanks!
 
Can't make out the picture even after downloading. I need to go back out and take the tank off again, but if you think the connector is under there, I'll give it a shot.
Perhaps you could look at it on a "smart phone" and expand the picture?
OM
 
Here is the link to complete schematics
it is 1100 but it should be good enough in this case

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/15908153-O.jpg


Did you have a chance to look at the ebay listing I posted . One of the pictures is showing the connectors.
If you find the connector you can take a paperclip and short pin 9 and pin two (leave the connector together). It should be green and green with brown stripe (need confirmation)
 
Lets see if I can bring this up-

15908153-O.jpg


So we all can continue-
OM
 
Can't make out the picture even after downloading. I need to go back out and take the tank off again, but if you think the connector is under there, I'll give it a shot.

Now we are here.


View attachment 44001

Sorry for the picture. Maybe you can download and enlarge.

There are four wires in this connector I am assuming it is under the tank somewhere, follow the wiring.
This is the kill switch. If you find the connector jumper two terminals in the harness pin 9 jumpered to pin 2. That should give you your kill switch "delete"
Other people are welcome to comment if they have intimate knowledge about where this connector is.

So I am 99% certain I have the right wiring sleeve from the starter button/kill switch off the handlebar assembly all the way down to the 12 pin female connector under the tank. I snapped off most of the zip ties, and like I said, I'm certain I have the right one (the other wiring sleeve heads off to the clutch side of the handlebars under the headlight). Not sure what to do now however. Do you know the colors of the kill switch wires? There are 6 wires in that sleeve (Black/slate, gray/red, green, brown/white, blue/slate, and brown).
 
So I am 99% certain I have the right wiring sleeve from the starter button/kill switch off the handlebar assembly all the way down to the 12 pin female connector under the tank. I snapped off most of the zip ties, and like I said, I'm certain I have the right one (the other wiring sleeve heads off to the clutch side of the handlebars under the headlight). Not sure what to do now however. Do you know the colors of the kill switch wires? There are 6 wires in that sleeve (Black/slate, gray/red, green, brown/white, blue/slate, and brown).

According to the schematics it should be green and green with brown stripe. I would like to hear confirmation. Get the paperclip ready and take another look at the ebay listing I posted to make sure. They should be thinner wires. You have located the connector?
 
According to the schematics it should be green and green with brown stripe. I would like to hear confirmation. Get the paperclip ready and take another look at the ebay listing I posted to make sure. They should be thinner wires. You have located the connector?

I must be color blind....having a hard time telling the color in both the picture and on the bike. My wife has been very patient all day, but she's getting a bit irritated now, so I gotta stop for the night and help get kids ready for bed.

So this is where I'm at:
- Eliminated the battery and starter
- Located the wiring sleeve and connector under the tank
- I'll take a look again tomorrow (hopefully, it's supposed to be very cold again) and try to figure out how to use the paperclip to disable the kill switch.

Again, thanks to everyone for helping me out. Still not convinced I'll fix it, but I'm closer now than I was 8 hours ago!
 
Hey, one more thing before I sign off....the connector in the e-bay pictures doesn't look like my connector set-up - I don't have heated grips.....

Good to know. Thats what I thought. Take a closer look at the green wires, sometimes stripes are difficult to see.
 
Kill Switch Wiring Colors

In my paperwork, they're green on one side and green with a red runner on the other.
 
Last edited:
I am glad to hear you will not give up.
You will derive joy from solving it yourself, and with the help of other riders here.
I know that joy.
And it's a joy you will not get from writing a check to the dealer.
This is early March. The summer is not half over.
Take a break and attend to the family matters.
Then you will have a clear head to solve the problem.
dc
 
Is this the style switch and connector you have. I know there is no heated grips but connector should be the same.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-04-05-...ies&fits=Make:BMW&hash=item4d113b34f2&vxp=mtr

All the documentation I am looking at is green and green/red wires to the kill switch.

Good morning. Yes, this one looks more like the connector I have. So I will try the paperclip trick tonight, but I want to make sure I have this right. You are saying to put the paperclip between the green and green/red wires on the female side (facing the handlebar controls, not the male side leading to the fuel pump). When you say "pin 2 and 9", are you referring simply to the colors and not the actual pins on the connector? I'm not sure how the individual pins are numbered on the connector, but there are only 6 wires.

Another question I have before I attempt this - what if I inadvertently short the wrong wires - am I going to blow a fuse or do more serious damage to the fuel pump or something else?

So once I have the paperclip in place, I'm assuming it's then time to turn on the ignition and hit the starter button - correct?

Final question - if this doesn't work, I am intrigued by the clutch switch that people have referenced. Would that be the next logical place to troubleshoot?
 
Good morning. Yes, this one looks more like the connector I have. So I will try the paperclip trick tonight, but I want to make sure I have this right. You are saying to put the paperclip between the green and green/red wires on the female side (facing the handlebar controls, not the male side leading to the fuel pump). When you say "pin 2 and 9", are you referring simply to the colors and not the actual pins on the connector? I'm not sure how the individual pins are numbered on the connector, but there are only 6 wires.

Another question I have before I attempt this - what if I inadvertently short the wrong wires - am I going to blow a fuse or do more serious damage to the fuel pump or something else?

So once I have the paperclip in place, I'm assuming it's then time to turn on the ignition and hit the starter button - correct?

Final question - if this doesn't work, I am intrigued by the clutch switch that people have referenced. Would that be the next logical place to troubleshoot?

Leave the connector plugged in. It doesn't matter which side of the connector you short the wires on, just make sure you are making connection. Dont worry about pin numbers colors are enough at this point. The colors I am referencing are on the switch side of the connector, I am not sure if they change colors on the harness side. I don't want to really go through scenario of what happens when you connect this wire with this wire (too many combinations), but there is nothing overly sensitive on that swich, and if you have green and green/red you are good to go. The wires are green and green with red stripe. Am I correct in assuming that the tank is off, so the question of damaging the pump is irrelevant at this point (pump is in the tank). The bike will not start if there is no tank (obviously), but it should crank when you push the button. If you do get it to crank this way then you need the switch or the wiring (but the good news is when yo buy the switch you get the wiring for free:).
All you are doing is connecting the kill switch by hand, nothing really fancy here.
As always if anybody else is listening and has something valuable to add feel free.
 
+1 to the above advice, that's a fine place to make the test.

Another handy thing to have are some jumpers with spade terminals. Even one that connects three individual wires with spades on one end to a common spade on the other end.

Then using this schematic (http://www.mac-pac.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/R1150RT-Electric-Diagram-V3.1.pdf), you can make all the measurements and tests right inside the electrical box under the seat. So to do the above test I would pull fuse 1 and the fuel pump relay. Then jumper the hot side of F1 to the top of the relay coil. This would connect the green wire in the above case to the green/red wire.
RB
 
+1 to the above advice, that's a fine place to make the test.

Another handy thing to have are some jumpers with spade terminals. Even one that connects three individual wires with spades on one end to a common spade on the other end.

Then using this schematic (http://www.mac-pac.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/R1150RT-Electric-Diagram-V3.1.pdf), you can make all the measurements and tests right inside the electrical box under the seat. So to do the above test I would pull fuse 1 and the fuel pump relay. Then jumper the hot side of F1 to the top of the relay coil. This would connect the green wire in the above case to the green/red wire.
RB


. Best schematics I have seen so far. Thanks.
 
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