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Thread: '05 1200RT Intermitent Brake Failure Light/Servo Motor Running Continuously

  1. #1

    '05 1200RT Intermitent Brake Failure Light/Servo Motor Running Continuously

    My '05 with ABS will intermittently flash the blinking red brake failure light and red triangle stays on. The servo brake motor continuously runs when this happens and will not stop until I turn off the ignition. After I restart the bike, it will run normally for a while, and the brakes operate normally, and then the problem returns. I recently changed the front tire, not sure if there is any correlation... Any help before I take it to a dealer would be helpful...

  2. #2
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    Check the alignment of the ABS sensor, and check for pinched or kinked wiring.
    The servo staying on hints at a brake lever that is too tight or not releasing; sticky switch or too much fluid?

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    Check the alignment of the ABS sensor, and check for pinched or kinked wiring.
    The servo staying on hints at a brake lever that is too tight or not releasing; sticky switch or too much fluid?
    I have checked the wiring for the front wheel. No kinks. Besides the switch activated by the rear pedal, is there others to be checked?

  4. #4
    The switch activated by the front lever. Part number 61 31 2 305 977 which I'm pretty sure they were using on your bike. With the ignition off if you listen carefully you can hear the "click" just as you pull in the hand lever. If that switch is stuck on your servos will never turn off.

  5. #5
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    If you can get to the switch (inside the lever assembly), a spritz of tuner cleaner or WD-40 might free it up.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    If you can get to the switch (inside the lever assembly), a spritz of tuner cleaner or WD-40 might free it up.
    I found the microfiche for the brake lever, and I see the switch in the diagram, but how do I disassemble the lever to get to the switch to try a repair/replace? I found another thread mentioning a 3mm allen underneath the lever assembly, but thats all I came across...

  7. #7
    The 3mm allen pushes against a small plastic disk with a nib in the center that fits in a depression in the switch itself. If you decide to remove the switch to check it out do not lose that nibbed disk or you will not be able to re-install the switch. I spent two hours looking for where mine fell on the clutch side of my '05 GS... and I knew the part was there and thought I was being careful.

    Assuming your throttle switch is similar to the clutch switch I found on my GS (and I think it is) check out the photos on the bottom of http://www.snafu.org/pics/r1200gs/20...clutch-switch/ --- they might help. The allen screw might have had loktite. It was hard to loosen. Once loosened (I don't believe it has to be removed) the switch can come out. Again, this is assuming that the RT throttle switch is roughly the same to a GS clutch switch of the same era.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by marchyman View Post
    The switch activated by the front lever. Part number 61 31 2 305 977 which I'm pretty sure they were using on your bike. With the ignition off if you listen carefully you can hear the "click" just as you pull in the hand lever. If that switch is stuck on your servos will never turn off.
    With just the ignition turned on but the engine not running, I can hear the "click" in both the front handbrake and foot pedal. For whatever reason, I could not reproduce the problem in the garage, even with five minutes of constant braking, servo motor operated normally...

  9. #9
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    It is the nature of a sticking switch to vary with time, temp and a bunch of other things.

    Quit trying to reproduce it and lube the switch as noted previously and hope it goes away. Getting a nozzle in there precisely isn't too easy but the fog will work around well enough though it could take a couple tries.

    I've had this exact problem on an 06 K1200GT - its not rare and only one of many reasons BMW finally got smart enough to dump whizzies which were a stupid idea in the first place. Far too many possible failure modes to have any business on a bike, reduces brake modulation feel somewhat, odd behavior with engine off, etc etc etc. Doesn't even make brakes more powerful- my non-whizzie bikes with essentially the same parts at the wheels are as powerful, modulate better, show no odd behaviors and have no failures of any kind

    If lubing doesn't put it to rest, there is a small chance of another cause or you may just have to replace the switch- its cheap enough to not be a big deal. If you let that motor run continuously you'll learn about the complications and/or costs if you don't do your own of repairing whizzies.

  10. #10
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marchyman View Post
    The 3mm allen pushes against a small plastic disk with a nib in the center that fits in a depression in the switch itself. If you decide to remove the switch to check it out do not lose that nibbed disk or you will not be able to re-install the switch. I spent two hours looking for where mine fell on the clutch side of my '05 GS... and I knew the part was there and thought I was being careful.
    Had the same problem. The disk is actually metal (at least on the clutch side on my R12R) - it's now glued to the switch assembly so it won't go missing again.
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders
    '12 R1200R - I love this bike!

  11. #11
    I have cleaned out both with switches. I'll report back. Thanks everybody!

  12. #12
    Registered User Beemer01's Avatar
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    The team beat me to the punch

    Sticking micro switches can and will cause this problem, if left undetected the ABS pump will burn out. Don't ask how I know this.

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