gsaddict
Pepperfool
It did not get as far as destroyed, see post#167
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tranny input shaft
- Thread starter bsample
- Start date
It did not get as far as destroyed, see post#167
cele0001
Instigator
blacque jacque shellacque
Member
I am in the middle of a spline lube. My plan is to replace the clutch disk, plate and cover, but keep the existing clutch housing. The housing seems to be flat, not perfect, but close. The housing appears to be a cheap piece of stamped steel. Beats me why it lists for $351. In any case, when I assemble the plate and cover with the housing, I noticed the cover will not sit flat upon the housing. There are 3 tangs that hold the clutch plate to the clutch cover. Each of the 3 tangs is located next to one of the 6 cover bolts. The tang is squashed between the cover and the housing. The 6 bolts are beside pads on the bottom of the cover where it is supposed to contact the housing. Due to the thickness of the tangs, the pads will not sit flush with the housing. The 3 pads without a tang next to them have a gap underneath them. As a result, the cover will rock back and forth when pressing above any of those 3 pads. When I swap the clutch plate and cover with the originals, it's the same. The mount points of the housing cover where the tangs contact, are slightly recessed from the rest of the housing, but clearly not deep enough. When the cover is bolted down tight to the housing something in the assembly has to bend and deform in at least 3 places. I have to suspect that the entire clutch assembly has a slight wobble. I wonder if anyone else has noticed this as well?
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cele0001
Instigator
I just took a look at mine and it is the same. BTW great explanation. I guess you could file the tang or the tang-pad to make it sit flat. I looked at the contact surfaces and they all show marks so they do sit flush after the bolts are put in. I am eyeballing maybe 0.2-0-3mm wobble at the edges but I am not sure what happens when the bolts are torqued, and what does that translate into the clutch plate wobbling in its plane (I hope I am finding words now).
In either case slight sanding would make is sit flush and I see no reason not to do it now.
gsaddict
Pepperfool
There is a relief in the metal to allow for the tang just to the left of the left threaded hole
There is thin line visible where it was pressed.
A .025" feeler gauge fits in with the bolt tightened up, the tang measures @ .027" so that is an .002" interference.
IMO that holds the spring tangs firmly in place.
Attachments
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blacque jacque shellacque
Member
This is great information, thanks. Interestingly, I do not measure a gap in the relief area of .025. The interference make sense though.
gsaddict
Pepperfool
They hold the fwd friction plate in position
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roger 04 rt
New member
What's the dark spot at the 12 o'clock position?
That's my concern...any thoughts Roger?
nrpetersen
Curmudgeon
Aside from being very slightly conical, is it warped? depression in the black area? Is the flywheel warped? (I understand it is not.) How about those three flexplates around the perimeter? Any cracks in them?
FWIW some years ago I saw a pix of similarily burned flywheel face on an oilhead that I attributed to friction heat from the clutch disk being dragged around the flywheel? Maybe not?
FWIW some years ago I saw a pix of similarily burned flywheel face on an oilhead that I attributed to friction heat from the clutch disk being dragged around the flywheel? Maybe not?
Neil, I can't tell if it's warped. There is definitely a pattern of wear from outside to in (see photos) There also does appear to be a slight depression in the black area and also the metal feels rough. I do not see any cracks in the casting of housing plate or anywhere in the pressure plate.
My attempt to determine if the flywheel is warped was inconclusive with the use of a straightedge.
gsaddict
Pepperfool
Thanks GSAddict. Sliding meaning either incomplete engagement or disengagement of the clutch for extended periods?
Is the outside to interior wear pattern normal? Would you recommend replacing this cover?
gsaddict
Pepperfool
Every one I have taken apart looked like that. BMW recommends that the whole assembly gets replaced so the new clutch plate will wear properly.
On all the client bikes I have done that because of comeback potential. (client ultimately made the decision)
On my own machine (256,000km) I ignored it and just replaced the disc. No issues whatsoever over 3 discs.
Disc 1 @ 75,000km - to fix trans oil seal leak (replaced stock input shaft as well)
Disc 2 @ 152,000km - replace stock input shaft with custom longer unit
Disc 3 presently running
I am still running all the other original clutch parts. (including the slave cylinder)
All I did to the friction surfaces was roughen the with an orbital sander & 100 grit emery sheet.
gsaddict
Pepperfool
Yes that is done for balancing purposes
gsaddict
Pepperfool
Basically starting on a hill loaded up and sliding the clutch too long to get going.
