How about a little free advice; I might need to repair a tubed tire when traveling. Any opinions regarding these fix a flat goop that is sprayed into the tube? Also, which air compressor brand / type works the best that runs off of my 12volts? Taking off the wheel, especially the rear is impossible sometimes.
-
Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password. If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?
-
Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.
The Election forum is here: Election Forum
On the road tube repairs.
- Thread starter newrider
- Start date
I've never had to fix a flat on a modern bike with tube type tires. Tubeless ones yes, straight forward, if the hole is not too big.
Stuff like fix a flat may get you home, but that stuff can glue the tube to the inside of the tire but that may be your only venue other than replacing the tube.
If I'm going very far on one of my old bikes, I always carry a spare tube. I used to carry a small electric pump with me, but now I take a tire repair kit and 6 400 gram CO2 cartridges with me. That's good for about 30psi in a big tire.
Modern bikes with their wide rims and stiff tires can be a PITA to repair on the road.
Stuff like fix a flat may get you home, but that stuff can glue the tube to the inside of the tire but that may be your only venue other than replacing the tube.
If I'm going very far on one of my old bikes, I always carry a spare tube. I used to carry a small electric pump with me, but now I take a tire repair kit and 6 400 gram CO2 cartridges with me. That's good for about 30psi in a big tire.
Modern bikes with their wide rims and stiff tires can be a PITA to repair on the road.
MCMXCIVRS
More toys than space
Best method is to remove the wheel from the bike, then the tire from the rim to get the tube out. You can then either patch the tube or swap in a spare one. You would do well to assemble the necessary tools and practice using them at home.
The job is a nuisance to have to do roadside, but totally manageable.
The job is a nuisance to have to do roadside, but totally manageable.
dieselyoda
Active member
What kind of bike you riding? The centerstand on an older airhead is used as a bead breaker.
The spare fits all 3 corners and is dirt simple to swap.
pglaves
#13338
I have used both Slime and Fix a Flat brand stuff - in my little yard tractor and my 250cc dirt bike. The risk here is cactus thorns and for these vehicles either seems to work.
If I were riding away from home, and if I got a puncture to a tube, and if it was truly impossible to remove the tire, then I would try one or the other of these products to get me to a location where I could remove the tire or have the tire removed and replace the tube.
I wouldn't have a high level of confidence in this approach however. My experience with flats on tube type tires is that the punctures are often tears as nails and such wiggle and move around. Goop really works best on small punctures in tubeless tires and less well inside tubes.
If I were riding away from home, and if I got a puncture to a tube, and if it was truly impossible to remove the tire, then I would try one or the other of these products to get me to a location where I could remove the tire or have the tire removed and replace the tube.
I wouldn't have a high level of confidence in this approach however. My experience with flats on tube type tires is that the punctures are often tears as nails and such wiggle and move around. Goop really works best on small punctures in tubeless tires and less well inside tubes.
pffog
Small road corner junkie
I am trying a different approach, I will let you know this summer if it works. After having 2 flats on an F800GS in a week, I decided I needed something that would allow me to get somewhere to replace the tube, without carrying all kinds of tools tire irons, bead breakers etc. I know there are a lot of commercial products to address the issue but all cost $$$$$, and I am frugal.
Last tire change, I sealed the spoke nipples with a terpolymer sealant (solar seal 900), but left the valve stem unsealed. So should I get a puncture, my hope is that I can use a tar rope plug , as you would in a tubeless tire, and then place a rubber seal on the outside of the valve stem, and use a couple co2 cartridges to inflate, and have it hold while I ride someplace convenient to do a proper repair. All the quick repair stuff will easily fit under the seat.
When the current tires are worn out, I will purposely puncture the worn out tire and test my home grown repair.
Last tire change, I sealed the spoke nipples with a terpolymer sealant (solar seal 900), but left the valve stem unsealed. So should I get a puncture, my hope is that I can use a tar rope plug , as you would in a tubeless tire, and then place a rubber seal on the outside of the valve stem, and use a couple co2 cartridges to inflate, and have it hold while I ride someplace convenient to do a proper repair. All the quick repair stuff will easily fit under the seat.
When the current tires are worn out, I will purposely puncture the worn out tire and test my home grown repair.
Just a side note here...did I read the new RnineT has tubes? Did the R12R Classics have tubes as well? I had assumed the GS radial laced rim was used and tubeless.
A-N-Y-W-A-Y-S
I have limped home with slime and whatever almost every convenience sells in a can. As mentioned, I had a pretty good tear by riding it flat and the stuff leaked out until I made a real stop. Mesquite thorns are mean. It's worth a chance in a got-to-go situation...there is a can in the /6's cases. There was a can of Kawasakis house brand in there when I rescued her that had to be 25 years old...I just renewed it!
Good to practice a on the road repair in the driveway under decent conditions than out on the rainy dark shoulder. Have used a second bike's sidestand as a bead breaker as well...in a pinch I would do it solo if I had to.
My brothers Victory club according to him all are trying Ride-On...both as a puncture preventative and a balancer... jury still out, but I am sure they go further than they thought they did before use
A-N-Y-W-A-Y-S
I have limped home with slime and whatever almost every convenience sells in a can. As mentioned, I had a pretty good tear by riding it flat and the stuff leaked out until I made a real stop. Mesquite thorns are mean. It's worth a chance in a got-to-go situation...there is a can in the /6's cases. There was a can of Kawasakis house brand in there when I rescued her that had to be 25 years old...I just renewed it!
Good to practice a on the road repair in the driveway under decent conditions than out on the rainy dark shoulder. Have used a second bike's sidestand as a bead breaker as well...in a pinch I would do it solo if I had to.
My brothers Victory club according to him all are trying Ride-On...both as a puncture preventative and a balancer... jury still out, but I am sure they go further than they thought they did before use
6322
Member
Fixing a Flat
In a million years I wouldn't use a liquid flat repair for a tube tire. I've seen it fail and could cause a potentially dangerous situation, not to mention a mess inside the tire/rim when it's properly fixed. Not sure I understand why the wheel/tire can't be removed from the bike? Regarding a tube type tire, patching a tube is a last ditch fix. I've had them hold for the life of a tire but have also battled them, as you patch one leak, and then another, and then another. It's just not worth the time and trouble (sometimes when a projectile punctures a tire it will leave multiple holes in the tube). I just install a new tube to fix the flat, even on the road. I always carry everything I need to fix it: a tube for the rear tire (my front and rear are such that I could use it in the front in a pinch (18" vs 19")); tire irons (three and longer is better); rim savers (3); and a compressor (lots of high dollar "motorcycle" compressors out there but Walmart has a good selection of compact 12V, down to $10); and a tire gauge. Also a bottle of drinking water may be a life saver if you're broke down on the roadside fixing a flat. I carry this kit every time I ride, even to town for groceries. I have everything I need, on each bike, tube or tubeless. If while riding I feel something strange in the handling like hitting a tar snake where there isn't one, I stop immediately. More than once I've found a tire going down, usually it's the rear as the front often "sets up" something in the road like a nail, to puncture the rear. The first sign of the tire going down is the wiggle from the invisible tar snake.
In a million years I wouldn't use a liquid flat repair for a tube tire. I've seen it fail and could cause a potentially dangerous situation, not to mention a mess inside the tire/rim when it's properly fixed. Not sure I understand why the wheel/tire can't be removed from the bike? Regarding a tube type tire, patching a tube is a last ditch fix. I've had them hold for the life of a tire but have also battled them, as you patch one leak, and then another, and then another. It's just not worth the time and trouble (sometimes when a projectile punctures a tire it will leave multiple holes in the tube). I just install a new tube to fix the flat, even on the road. I always carry everything I need to fix it: a tube for the rear tire (my front and rear are such that I could use it in the front in a pinch (18" vs 19")); tire irons (three and longer is better); rim savers (3); and a compressor (lots of high dollar "motorcycle" compressors out there but Walmart has a good selection of compact 12V, down to $10); and a tire gauge. Also a bottle of drinking water may be a life saver if you're broke down on the roadside fixing a flat. I carry this kit every time I ride, even to town for groceries. I have everything I need, on each bike, tube or tubeless. If while riding I feel something strange in the handling like hitting a tar snake where there isn't one, I stop immediately. More than once I've found a tire going down, usually it's the rear as the front often "sets up" something in the road like a nail, to puncture the rear. The first sign of the tire going down is the wiggle from the invisible tar snake.
I have used the slime in the aerosol form, both front and rear, with tubes. The front had a continuous slow leak; the case of the rear was much more severe. I neither of these cases could I see what caused the flats on the outside. In both cases the repair lasted the life of the tire.
In the case of the front, I used a car sized can. There were warnings on the can about limiting your speed, balance issues, etc. But I never felt anything untoward; no high speed problem, nothing happened with hands off bars. Presumably warnings are lawyerly; YMMV
In the case of the front, I used a car sized can. There were warnings on the can about limiting your speed, balance issues, etc. But I never felt anything untoward; no high speed problem, nothing happened with hands off bars. Presumably warnings are lawyerly; YMMV
pglaves
#13338
I read this advice fairly often and have yet to be able to visualize how this method can be relied upon. I can easily see how, if more than one rider are riding together it can work. Remove wheel from bike A, bring wheel over to bike B. Sit astride bike B, position side stand on tire on wheel from bike A, lean bike over, etc.
But I absolutely have no idea how a rider can remove a wheel from his or her bike and then, by themselves, use the side stand to break the bead. If anybody has a video of this in action I'd love to see it because then I might not carry my big C clamp as a bead breaker.
6322
Member
Removing the Rear Wheel From a Twin Shock Airhead
Regarding removing the rear wheel from a twin shock airhead (this may also work for others), with a cool header pipe crossover, fasten around the crossover pipe and the centerstand cross piece, a tie down strap (a strap like those used to tie down new BMWs in the crate). Remove front wheel. Loosen and remove rear axle bolt. Lift tail of bike in the air, pivoting on the center stand, resting on front fork sliders. Remove wheel. Don't try this without strapping the centerstand to the crossover pipe.
Regarding removing the rear wheel from a twin shock airhead (this may also work for others), with a cool header pipe crossover, fasten around the crossover pipe and the centerstand cross piece, a tie down strap (a strap like those used to tie down new BMWs in the crate). Remove front wheel. Loosen and remove rear axle bolt. Lift tail of bike in the air, pivoting on the center stand, resting on front fork sliders. Remove wheel. Don't try this without strapping the centerstand to the crossover pipe.
pglaves
#13338
Cool - but that is a centerstand, not the fabled "sidestand", and is in fact using the foot tang on the centerstand and is fairly unique to the R1200GS. It is positioned way different on my R1150, Voni's R1100RS, any of our K75s, etc.
