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Thread: Removing Hot or Cold Nuts?

  1. #31
    As I had suspected. I went out to my frigid cold garage, and looked at my "silver" anti-seize.

    Mine is the silver aluminum type not the nickel type. I have used it for 40 years (still have original bottle) with no trouble but not necessarily on exhaust items. But, since I took the exhaust nuts off pretty regularly, no problem there either.

    I think that the Nickel type, like the Copper type is specialized enough that neither are sold at the regular run-of-the-mill auto stores. I did find the copper at NAPA.

    I am also guessing that the "silver" type that Chris Harris goes ballistic about is probably the aluminum type (like mine), not the nickel type.

    In any case, Nickel seem to be the best for exhaust nuts, and Copper next in line with the aluminum last. Al three work, but Nickel has the highest temp resistance.

    I also have suggested that when any of them are just sitting there in the can, they tend to dry out. A little oil (I use Marvel Mystery) added helps soften and mixes it up. According to all three MSDS sheets, all have the same liquid body - that of mineral oil.
    "The difference between death and taxes is that death doesn't change every time congress meets." - Will Rogers

  2. #32
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Vancouver, B.C. Canada
    Interesting that MotoBins sells part 95899 " Copper Slip Grease" with no mention of exhaust nut use.


    I have both on hand and the recommended stuff for exhaust nuts is silver in colour. It's re-packaged and re-labeled without the ingredient list so not sure what is in it. I just bought these products recently but for more than ten years now I've been using a can of Mopar Anti Sieze which is a high temp nickel based product I believe. I've never had a stitch of trouble with it other than the mess it makes if you get it on anything but your target. Chris Harris has strong opinions but remember, this is the internet and so does everyone else. I reckon any high temperature rated anti seize should do the job as long as you take them off once in a while, clean the threads and replenish the anti seize of your choice.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  3. #33
    God? What god? roborider's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Raleigh, NC
    I have no idea if the stuff I quit using long ago was Aluminum or Nickel. Interesting. I guess like many, the copper works well for me (and I'm used to using copper on head gaskets and such) that I "stick" with it!
    Rob C. , Raleigh, NC
    '10 R12RT, R90/6
    2007 CBR600RR & 09 V-Star
    Suzuki DR 350

  4. #34
    Registered User amiles's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Murrells Inlet, S. C.
    In my experience the standard (silver/gray) has worked well. When I do the refresh it appears that the compound Is dried Out & powdery instead of being nice & greasy. My stance is to change it every few years. YMMV

    As for penetrating oil, My take is that most times we are in a hurry & don't give it sufficient time to do it's job. It has been suggested that a mix of 50/50 ATF/acetone works quite well for a penetrant.

    I plan ahead for the removal on a running bike by spraying front & back of the nuts (cold then hot) prior to & after good warm up rides daily/nightly for a week or so. Carefully turning the wrench back & forth just a few degrees at a time (as though using a tap or die) both before (cold) & hot (after) each ride seems to do the job helping the penetrant go further into the threads . The aerosol products with straw work really well for this.

    I'm not comfortable using a flaming torch on parts wet with oil below my gas tank while in my garage.
    Last edited by amiles; 02-07-2014 at 07:45 AM. Reason: grammar

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by amiles View Post
    I'm not comfortable using a flaming torch on parts wet with oil below my gas tank while in my garage.
    Don't forget that there are two different silver colors, aluminum and nickel. To me both work when replaced once every year or so, but as Kurt found out, the nickel is best because of its high temp resistance.

    Also, about the flame. I take an ordinary bath towel, and soak in water, and throw over the bike (or whatever) to isolate the area where I want to apply heat with a propane, and the propane outfits usually have a smaller pinpoint nozzle. Application of penetrating oil and application of heat several time (take time in between) to start the expand/shrink/expand scene will really help to suck that penetrating oil into the threads. Even do it after you get the nut broken loose to protect the aluminum from catching and gaulding on further rotation.
    "The difference between death and taxes is that death doesn't change every time congress meets." - Will Rogers

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