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1976 BMW R75/6 - Oil Cooler Attachment and Lines

b25bsaboy

New member
Good evening,

Trust everyone is doing well?:wave Weather here in Calgary has done a 180 degree turn and the weather people are calling for +13 degrees C for Saturday. Have to get the sun screen out?

When I bought the R75/6 it came equipped with an oil cooler which made sense with the Vetter fairing. The fairing is long gone and I keep looking at the cooling radiator and hoses which need not be replaced. I really want the look in the front to be clean but with the cooler hanging out in front, somewhat takes away the look. Was reading another thread about oil coolers and I saw some pictures of a R100R Mystic that had an oil cooler setup and it was attached with a Trim Panel which to me smartens the front right up.

Several questions:

1. Can I utilize the setup shown below with a bow/bracket part # 11 42 1 335 763? Question is what does the bow bolt on too? here is the Mystic that I am referring to. Update: was into the shop and saw the bracket where the bow/bracket is to attach to. Sorry for the silly question, my bad.

IMG_0238.JPG

2. Here is what it looked like prior to my taking the R75/6 apart including the horn hanging there, which will be repositioned and cleaned up as well.

IMGP3506.jpg

3. Is there any way to clean up the metal exposed parts on the oil lines or would it be simpler just to get new lines made up?

Appreciate your comments and guidance.;)
 
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The later model twins had a frame reinforcement tube on the frame down tubes just below the headstock, the cooler in the photo clamps to that tube.

/6 models did not come with that frame tube. The cooler in the other photo is attached to the horn support. I've see broken horn supports as it's not designed to support the weight of the cooler.
 
The later model twins had a frame reinforcement tube on the frame down tubes just below the headstock, the cooler in the photo clamps to that tube.

/6 models did not come with that frame tube. The cooler in the other photo is attached to the horn support. I've see broken horn supports as it's not designed to support the weight of the cooler.

I think your right about the horn support bracket not being strong enough. Now this makes me think that perhaps to not bother reinstalling the oil cooler setup, because here in Calgary along the Rocky Mountains, we generally don't get hot weather, warm yes but not hot. Not like they would generally get in eastern Canada. So I am thinking not to bother and revert back to a clean looking from end and with that being said, what parts do I have to get to retrofit it back?:thumb
 
I have a/6 with a factory cooler installed. Every now and then I would reach down and touch the cooler to see if it was working, it was cool most of the time. It would open on a hot day in traffic.

I installed a oil temp gauge to see what was going on. Oil was always 180 to 200 deg, on rare occasions I would see temps up to 240 deg, like one time I Death Valley, I think I was suffering more than the motorcycle, it was very hot.

In my opinion the old 750's and 900's don't really need a cooler unless you live somewhere where it gets hot. I've left mine on as I went through the trouble to make a support for it.

The cooler was made for the 1000cc bikes with a faring.

If you remove the cooler make shure you get the correct filter cover. OE had a separate cover for the oil filter tube, then a flat cover over that. The later bikes without a cooler had a stepped cover that eliminated the little inner cover.
 
I have a/6 with a factory cooler installed. Every now and then I would reach down and touch the cooler to see if it was working, it was cool most of the time. It would open on a hot day in traffic.

I installed a oil temp gauge to see what was going on. Oil was always 180 to 200 deg, on rare occasions I would see temps up to 240 deg, like one time I Death Valley, I think I was suffering more than the motorcycle, it was very hot.

In my opinion the old 750's and 900's don't really need a cooler unless you live somewhere where it gets hot. I've left mine on as I went through the trouble to make a support for it.

The cooler was made for the 1000cc bikes with a faring.

If you remove the cooler make shure you get the correct filter cover. OE had a separate cover for the oil filter tube, then a flat cover over that. The later bikes without a cooler had a stepped cover that eliminated the little inner cover.

Thank you for your inpute.

I think you nailed it with regards to why my R75/6 had an oil cooler installed with the comment: The cooler was made for the 1000cc bikes with a fairing. When I purchased the old girl from the PO, a Vetter Fairing was attached, which I couldn't wait to get to off as it detracted from the beauty of the Airhead lines.

Here is what she looked like prior to the Vetter removal. The oil cooler will not be going back on as I feel it maybe an over kill!
 

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Thank you for your inpute.

I think you nailed it with regards to why my R75/6 had an oil cooler installed with the comment: The cooler was made for the 1000cc bikes with a fairing. When I purchased the old girl from the PO, a Vetter Fairing was attached, which I couldn't wait to get to off as it detracted from the beauty of the Airhead lines.

Here is what she looked like prior to the Vetter removal. The oil cooler will not be going back on as I feel it maybe an over kill!

Thought I would follow up and advise where i am at on the subject with regards to removing the oil cooler from the R75/6. I received yesterday the recessed outer cover and the large diameter o-ring. and the small stub that is mounted in the back side of the oil filter holding area. Several questions popped into my head and thanks to Kurt went a re read the comments on this link: http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/ which was totally invaluable.

My question is in looking at the cylinder where the oil filter fits, should the metal ring sit on top of the leading edge and then the o-ring sits on top of that? Also is it advisable to place a gasket on the flange area where the three 93) bolt holes are?

Sorry for all the questions.
 

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Yes, the washer (aka shim) needs to sit against the sharp edge of the canister that is still inside the block. The o-ring sits on the washer. As for the gasket, that depends on how far inset your canister is relative to the block. Please check Anton's site again. Nominally, you shouldn't need the gasket if your canister is 3 to 3.5mm inset. If the canister is less than 3mm, then you'll need a gasket. If more than 3.5mm to 4mm, you will need to consider more washers. The gasket is not there to seal oil off...the big o-ring does that. The gasket is nothing more than a spacer on the /7 setups. That's why you need to know the amount of inset on the canister.
 
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