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Type of Oil to Use

DROWINSKI

New member
I recently purchased a 2007 F650GS. In the manual that came with it I noticed it stated NOT to use synthetic oil.
Is this really true? What are the implications of using synthetic oil?
I have a '71 R75/5 and mix regular with synthetic in that one.
I hope someone has a definitive, technical answer.
Thanks.
Dave
 
Well I don't

Your '71 bike needs ZDDP (google is your friend) added to the oil as neither of the oils you are using have much and that bike has sliding surfaces (cam and tappets for ex.) that are not going to be properly lubricated without it. ZDDP has been removed in "modern" oils to prevent catalyst degradation.
I don't understand the reasoning for not following BMWs recommendation but I know that is not what you asked for. If you want years worth of reading on oil, search this and any other forum.
BTW I have been testing oils for 50 years in my vehicles. All work- more or less. I expect the engineers that work for manufacturers have reason's for requiring a defined oil standard. They rarely tell you why. Your risk I'd say. Sorry to not be more "technical" but it isn't needed here. Best of luck and my guess is the Syn-dino will work fine, not better than BMW's recommended oil but it probably won't damage anything (I hope.)
Perhaps go to F650.com and read their faq.
 
I recently purchased a 2007 F650GS. In the manual that came with it I noticed it stated NOT to use synthetic oil.
Is this really true? What are the implications of using synthetic oil?
I have a '71 R75/5 and mix regular with synthetic in that one.
I hope someone has a definitive, technical answer.
Thanks.
Dave

Hi Dave,

From what I recall reading, in certain conditions synthetic oil can cause clutch slippage. I just use the recommended oil though, so I have never experienced it. Like the other guy said, the F650 FAQ site is a great place to go.

Safe travels,
Rob
 
Dave I believe the problem with many of the synthetic oils is that they are not compatible with a wet clutch.

As I recall the synthetic oils that have a JASO MA-2 rating are compatible.

My last oil change I went to Castrol Power RS V-Twin 4T 20w-50.

Their web site reads "delivers wet clutch performance" whatever that means.

It carries the JASO MA-2 rating.

While my G650GS is not a V-Twin - it thinks it is at times.

Wayne Koppa
Grayling, MI
#71449
 
Yes it's true-my owners manual- 2012 G650GS says no synthetic for so many miles-I think it's 10k. On F650 there are lots of people that use Rotella full Syn(I'll use it after wrrty ends) and no problems with the clutch they say-of course google tells you more on this subject of Rotella vs wet clutches. I do their rewards points & it almost pays for my oil-I use it in cars & trucks & tractors too!
 
getting an oil that is wet-clutch compatible is the goal, synth or dino should make no difference whatsoever once past the break-in period. (other than that synth can go longer between changes without degrading, and offers better heat management than dino). if you buy a m/c specific oil, of the appropriate SAE grade (10W40 or 20W50, SF, SG etc as called for), you will be fine.
 
Using Royal Purple in two thumpers and a 650 twin with great success over 24,000 miles

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
getting an oil that is wet-clutch compatible is the goal, synth or dino should make no difference whatsoever once past the break-in period. (other than that synth can go longer between changes without degrading, and offers better heat management than dino). if you buy a m/c specific oil, of the appropriate SAE grade (10W40 or 20W50, SF, SG etc as called for), you will be fine.
What he said! Synthetic or dino makes no difference, it is the appropriate spec that counts. The only point that that I disagree with is the "m/c specific" part. There are a ton of old time, long distance riders who have used Mobil 1 red cap in the past and even various diesel oils with no problems. You just need to know what spec to choose.
 
Your '71 bike needs ZDDP (google is your friend) added to the oil as neither of the oils you are using have much and that bike has sliding surfaces (cam and tappets for ex.) that are not going to be properly lubricated without it. ZDDP has been removed in "modern" oils to prevent catalyst degradation.
I don't understand the reasoning for not following BMWs recommendation but I know that is not what you asked for. If you want years worth of reading on oil, search this and any other forum.
BTW I have been testing oils for 50 years in my vehicles. All work- more or less. I expect the engineers that work for manufacturers have reason's for requiring a defined oil standard. They rarely tell you why. Your risk I'd say. Sorry to not be more "technical" but it isn't needed here. Best of luck and my guess is the Syn-dino will work fine, not better than BMW's recommended oil but it probably won't damage anything (I hope.)
Perhaps go to F650.com and read their faq.

Thanks for your reply.
From all the responses, it appears synthetic can be used but watch the specs on the oil. i.e., Wet Clutch compatible.
Dave
 
Hi Dave,

From what I recall reading, in certain conditions synthetic oil can cause clutch slippage. I just use the recommended oil though, so I have never experienced it. Like the other guy said, the F650 FAQ site is a great place to go.

Safe travels,
Rob

Rob,
Thanks for your reply. I had specific recommendations from other replies about oils. "Wet Clutch" also came up in some of those responses. The F650 is different than the R75/5 that I've had for over 38 years, so I want the best for it to get the 100K+ miles I have on the R75. Differences include: fuel injection; water cooling; and HEATED GRIPS!!! The only minus is a chain. Maybe I'll convert it to a belt at some point in the future.
 
Dave I believe the problem with many of the synthetic oils is that they are not compatible with a wet clutch.

As I recall the synthetic oils that have a JASO MA-2 rating are compatible.

My last oil change I went to Castrol Power RS V-Twin 4T 20w-50.

Their web site reads "delivers wet clutch performance" whatever that means.

It carries the JASO MA-2 rating.

While my G650GS is not a V-Twin - it thinks it is at times.

Wayne Koppa
Grayling, MI
#71449

Wayne,
Thanks for your specific recommendations. Looks like I can go with synth - just pay attention to the specs.
I'll be riding in Michigan this summer in the Pontiac area.
Dave
 
Yes it's true-my owners manual- 2012 G650GS says no synthetic for so many miles-I think it's 10k. On F650 there are lots of people that use Rotella full Syn(I'll use it after wrrty ends) and no problems with the clutch they say-of course google tells you more on this subject of Rotella vs wet clutches. I do their rewards points & it almost pays for my oil-I use it in cars & trucks & tractors too!

Thanks for your reply. I'll definitely look into the Rotella and other recommendations before the next oil change. I don't think I saw a mileage spec on when synth could be used. I'll read the manual again and also look at more forums. The bike does have >10k on it. I expect to put that much on it just this year.
Dave
 
getting an oil that is wet-clutch compatible is the goal, synth or dino should make no difference whatsoever once past the break-in period. (other than that synth can go longer between changes without degrading, and offers better heat management than dino). if you buy a m/c specific oil, of the appropriate SAE grade (10W40 or 20W50, SF, SG etc as called for), you will be fine.

Thanks for your reply. Looks like synth is OK. I'll be paying attention to the specs when I purchase oil for the next change. "Wet Clutch" is another term to look for. Dave
 
Using Royal Purple in two thumpers and a 650 twin with great success over 24,000 miles

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

Thanks for your reply and testimonial for Royal Purple. The bike is past its break-in mileage, so synth should be OK. Wet Clutch is another factor to look for in choosing the oil. Dave
 
What he said! Synthetic or dino makes no difference, it is the appropriate spec that counts. The only point that that I disagree with is the "m/c specific" part. There are a ton of old time, long distance riders who have used Mobil 1 red cap in the past and even various diesel oils with no problems. You just need to know what spec to choose.

Thanks for your reply. From others that sent replies it appears that the specs are more important than the type of oil. "Wet Clutch compatible" seems to be an important spec. Dave
 
An oil thread is a good way to revitalize interest in the single site again. It always stimulates a good conversation.
 
I'm thinking you will not see the words "wet clutch compatible" on the bottle. So be sure and read the specs.

Also, avoid anything with moly additives. Moly will bond to the clutch plates and then you may as well not have a clutch.
 
FWIW the new GSs are sold with synthetic from new and are wet clutch. They do use motorcycle specific oil though (MA2 spec if I recall). It is the racing 4T oil available in the BMW label or at parts stores and other dealers.
 
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