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Speedo Needle

EMSimon

No longer a member here
Does anyone know if anybody sells the white instrument ( here speedometer) needle as a part? I hate to send a speedo to Palo Alto and have them charge me $200.- to replace a broken needle.
 
Check the Resource link in the Speedometer section. There's a number of places to check...I wonder if Terry, who is an independent repair guy, might be willing to work with you.
 
Does anyone know if anybody sells the white instrument ( here speedometer) needle as a part? I hate to send a speedo to Palo Alto and have them charge me $200.- to replace a broken needle.

I'm thinking that you could just glue on a toothpick! Wouldn't that work?


I know that they also fix speedos down at Re-Psycle in Columbus.
 
I will contact Terry, thanks all. No, Jim, i did not know you were kidding....
The needle is a thin metal part that is clamped on the hub with four small bending tabs. It looks like it would be available as a spare part.
 
I will contact Terry, thanks all. No, Jim, i did not know you were kidding....
The needle is a thin metal part that is clamped on the hub with four small bending tabs. It looks like it would be available as a spare part.

If you get the needle it should come with the small brass hub too. The old one can easily be removed by grabbing it (needle and hub) with a pair of needle noise pliers and pulling straight out. It pops off the shaft easily. Replace it the same way. I removed mine to recalibrate the speedometer.

Wayne
 
If you get the needle it should come with the small brass hub too. The old one can easily be removed by grabbing it (needle and hub) with a pair of needle noise pliers and pulling straight out. It pops off the shaft easily. Replace it the same way. I removed mine to recalibrate the speedometer.

Wayne

Does that mean, I can just pull the hub including the needle off an old spare instrument I have???
 
Yes, that is what he means.......He clearly said to grasp it with a pair of needle nose, I use a hemostat, and pull straight out.......Then all one does is to place it EXACTLY back onto the shaft. I put a bit of super glue on the shaft. Make sure YOU align the needle properly with what is "Zero" or you will definately be complaining about being off several MPH............

Have done this on a tach and the speedo of my /6..........For the tach I had to salvage one from some other year and it was white and I needed orange.......A bit of my grandaughter's orange marker from her coloring set did wonders..........God bless.......Dennis
 
What Dennis said, and this is a good time to correct any speedo error too.

Wayne

How would you go for correcting speedo error. I would think the need to put the hub/needle at the "zero" position doesn't leave you much room for correcting speedo error. Besides, even if you would want to, how would you figure out where to put the needle?
 
Mike -

It is my understanding that the speed is compenstated by where you put the needle w.r.t. the shaft...since the needle can be put (I think) in an infinite number of locations on the shaft. The shaft is drawn back to zero by an internal spring. In fact, it would seem to me that if you just put the needle on the shaft to show 0 speed, you will more than likely be well off in terms of indicated speed. My recollection is that you have to rotate the shaft some to put tension in the spring and then place the needle on the shaft it its rotated position. Exactly where would have to be done by trial and error. I don't know where I've seen it, but there might be a procedure where a drill is chucked up to the other end of the cable and spun at a known RPM which equates to specific MPH. Then by repositioning it on the shaft, the best reading can be found.
 
I was more concerned of the error around 60 than 30. I had the speedometer apart to fix the odometer problem, thus the needle off to make it easier. Inside the unit is the armature that you can mark. I turned the needle to indicate 60 and marked the armature. I then repaired the odometer, once it was repaired I turned the armature to line up the marks where it indicated 60, but put the needle back on indicating 50. This corrected the 10 mph error at 60 that I had; and made the other speeds, once above 20 or so, more accurate.

Wayne
 
I think I will forego any calibration attempts. I am not concerned at all about having an exact indication of speed on a vintage bike and I rather have the safety net of seeing a few mph more than I am actually going. Saving me the discussion with the cop that I went too fast in 55 mph zone.
It seems the hub is set on the shaft such that the needle, if mounted, points right at 0 and touches the pin. I will leave it at that.
 

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I think I will forego any calibration attempts. I am not concerned at all about having an exact indication of speed on a vintage bike and I rather have the safety net of seeing a few mph more than I am actually going. Saving me the discussion with the cop that I went too fast in 55 mph zone.
It seems the hub is set on the shaft such that the needle, if mounted, points right at 0 and touches the pin. I will leave it at that.

That is not the way I removed my needle. I pulled the hub off too, that way I could rotate it as I put it back on. Either way it works though. My speedometer would read 60, but I was only going 50. I NEVER got a speeding ticket on the bike, but I did get passed by many cars until I figured out that I was going 10 MPH under the posted speed limit.

Wayne
 
That is not the way I removed my needle. Wayne

:thumb Neither did I, Wayne. This is the way I received the instrument when it was shipped to me. That's why my original quest to find a replacement needle.
I still have the option to just affix a new needle (if I could find one) to the hub or replace the hub complete with a needle (from another intsrument).
 
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