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New to me 99' RT gives out.....help

Teacher?

Man why didn't you say you were a teacher earlier!! You have the World's hardest job and so fixing this bike will be a piece of cake for you. I taught for 30+ years and have fixed much more difficult mechanical problems on my slim salary. Had to. You have a beautiful bike that in my opinion looks better than a $2500 piece of jewelry, is bigger, AND has the potential to cary you to great adventures. Put it in perspective man! Find a place to work on it, begin now while the school kids are home for the holiday break, use the next few months to go at it slowly, and take lots of pictures of every step. After a particularly frustrating day at the IQ factory do 20 minutes of wrenching therapy. Post everything here and listen to the advice to choose a path that is right for you. Best to you and thanks for your teaching service.
 
I'm going to look at an R1100RT tomorrow so I've read this discussion with some interest.

The bike I'm to look at (per the present owner) has had all service done and he says he has the records. We'll see.

That said, at $3,100 you indeed got a bargain, and if you put $1,200 into repairs you'll still have less in your bike than the asking price of the one I'm to look at.

So as another asylumee noted, you can repair the bike and get $5K for it come spring time. So you might still have a bargain. Eh?
 
What a great looking '99RT. After thinking about it overnight, a clutch disc (plus bolts) and an input shaft or used transmission (you could sell/swap yours) might be an economical out. Maybe there's a member in your area who could help with the repair.
RB
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jx3e0gqzylY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

The more removed from the actual event of the bike quitting on me the more level headed I become. I really like this bike from the looks to how it performed, for all 250 miles, and I am thinking I want to keep it, but I don't want to repair it just to have it happen again. I found the above link that purports that they can sell me a clutch disc that will prevent this from ever happening again. What do you all know about this? Seems a bit pricey and does it actually bullet proof the splines?

The other option is to just take it to the dealer and have them do it right and get the warranty for the work done and go on my merry way........only the Shadow knows what will happen....thanks for all the support.
 
I did read through that thread and it is mind boggling.......and that is my greatest fear, that there are underlying issues that could lead to this again if I keep the bike and repair it. We have very few if any independent shops that would know how to address underlying issues. For now I am signing off on this thread and will hopefully be back in a couple of weeks with an update. Time to sit down with my CFO and see what I can afford to put into the bike.
 
Do not think for one minute that a different clutch disk (spline hub) will cure this problem. See the recent thread referred to by Roger RT. It is a classic alignment problem (i. e. a manufacturing error). I have a dial indicator and fixture that I can send you that will allow you to thoroughly evaluate the alignment with any disassembled transmission housing. No motorcycle shop is equipped to do this, I'm sure.

If you replace the whole transmission as an assembly, you may get a good one - or you may not.

You will learn a lot before you are done, but it does otherwise look like a very nice bike.
 
WOW, what a beautiful bike. i fully understand your dalema, i just purchased a 02RT at a very good price. i got it knowing i would be doing a full resto job. haveing said that, the po said i could test drive it. i said ok ill be there at sunup and be back at sun down, he said fine just dont hurt yourself. no history on the bike whatsoever, so i looked for signs of previous work. none. at any rate i got er home and started the surgery process, splines wer never lubed and a good 40% gone, the clutch disc itself had about 10 more miles on it. toast. so iam doing the input shaft with antons help. its really not that bad of a job, when i removed mine i left the gearbox attached to the swing arm and rear wheel. ofcourse guide pins an all. lucky for me i have done spline lubes on the crusier bikes several times so i had an idea what i was in for. if you want to un load the bike e mail me. with antons help we will geter done. happy motoring and merry christmas,,,,
 
Nice looking bike. I may be wrong, but I believe those cylinder head guards you have are optional. And a real good option to have, trust me. Everyone is right about a couple of things: I would agree that is a $5000 bike or close to it, in the Spring. And at $3100 it was a great deal. As someone said, the 99's are supposed to be one of best years. I thought you also said it came with Ohlins on it? That's rare and a $1600 bonus on the machine. Most of us here on the site would be fixing that baby right back up, no question about it. If you do, you won't regret it. I love my 1100, everything about it. I admire Japanese bikes, but they just don't make one that has all the qualities and features I need in a motorcycle.
As for being worried about it happening again, I look at Voni Glaves. She has something like 300,000 miles on her red 1100RS. I firmly believe that if I keep the splines on my bike lubed at the recommended 40,000 mile intervals, they will last me a long time. And it takes me quite a few years to put 40,000 miles on my bike.
 
Wow, I wish I lived closer to you, I'd help you do the job. You really should consider jumping in and doing it yourself or see if a local Bmw club will help you out. I did submit a tutorial here for doing the spline job, which I did on my 02 1150. Check out this write up I did:
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...2002-1150RT-Spline-lube&highlight=a+pictorial

I had never really messed with a beemer bike before and I could do general maintenance stuff. If you do this job yourself, you will learn so much more than you now know. You will be glad that you did this and you'll be proud of yourself too. Come on......get in there and do this!
 
I'm getting encouraged by all the talk of $5K in the spring. I have a 99 for sale at $3K, side and top case, 42K miles, almost new PR3's and no takers.

Guess letting it sit in the garage all winter and letting it age will pay big dividends in April! :D
 
I'm getting encouraged by all the talk of $5K in the spring. I have a 99 for sale at $3K, side and top case, 42K miles, almost new PR3's and no takers.

Guess letting it sit in the garage all winter and letting it age will pay big dividends in April! :D

Some key words there. "all the talk of $5K in the spring".

Sad to say 1100s are not commanding high prices any more unless they are very low K and very well accessorized. And even then, farkles don't really pay when you resell. Just check the listings. That is why when you find a beauty like the OP did they are worth saving IMO.
 
The more removed from the actual event of the bike quitting on me the more level headed I become. I really like this bike from the looks to how it performed, for all 250 miles, and I am thinking I want to keep it, but I don't want to repair it just to have it happen again. I found the above link that purports that they can sell me a clutch disc that will prevent this from ever happening again. What do you all know about this? Seems a bit pricey and does it actually bullet proof the splines?

The other option is to just take it to the dealer and have them do it right and get the warranty for the work done and go on my merry way........only the Shadow knows what will happen....thanks for all the support.

Chances are that if you repair it, you will not have the same problem again. But, it is important to fix it correctly. If fixed correctly, very few have the problem again. There are a lot of theories as to why these bikes have this problem. What we all seem to agree on is that the input shaft is too short. As Anton pointed out recently, if the clutch assembly is replaced with the input shaft there is little chance of a second incident. But, there is no way to guarantee this. If I were in your shoes, I would repair it correctly. I would then check it in 10-15k miles. If it looks good, I would then go to the 80k mark before lubing it again.

I think the link you are referring to is this one: http://http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/bmw_clutches.html . I believe that the "RSR Street 360" clutch is an excellent option. The spring loaded clutch will soften the load to the input shaft. Most clutches do have spring loaded dampener. I always thought it was strange that BMW didn't do this. The idea behind the spring loaded clutches is to keep the engine from ripping up the input shaft. I think it is worth the extra money. People who have installed this clutch haven't had the problem come up again. Other members might have a different experience or view then mine.

Expect the dealer to charge between $3200-4000 to do the entire job. Some dealers are good, and some aren't so good. Back in the 80's I had an input shaft strip out in the middle of no where. A BMW dealer did the job. I later had to go back and fix some of the work they did. I'm not so impressed with that option because of my experience. The most common option is to remove the transmission and send it to a BMW transmission specialist. It will be cheaper, and done better.

In regards to you liking the bike. The more you drive oilheads, the more you will like it. They have a lot of character, and you never seem to get bored with them. Once you get past the holidays and make a decision, the forum can provide you with a lot more detailed help.
 
Where I live there are very few oilheads for sale. Usually there are 25+ oilheads for sale. But, right now there are only 3 for sale. A 96 for $3800 and two 04's for $7000+. So, 5k for a 99 would be just about right. But, having said this, there are still some people desperate to sell their bikes. There is also an airhead going for $1000, and a 61 R27 for $1500. Bad time of year to sell a bike. I am sure the prices will be strong come Spring. Obviously, some locations could have a surplus, so the price is driven down. Two years ago you couldn't sell airheads for $2500. Now they are selling briskly at $3500-5000.
 
These bikes are not tightly packed like many Japanese Bikes. They are easier to work on. That said, this is a Big Job, and there are a lot of steps. A digital camera, and a small tackle box to hold screws, with notes is useful. A torque wrench is a really good idea. The simple beam type is not expensive and they are accurate, and never go out of calibration.

If you are opening the transmission case, harbor freight has appropriate sizes of digital calipers for the measurements. Mine are good, but always measure before you take apart as a reality check if you are changing bearings.. If you do not have a lift, knee pads from harbor freight are good to have. Your relaxation beverage of choice and a friend available for the heaver items is also nice. Please apologize to your significant other in advance if you are the type to get cranky and frustrated. Some chocolate or other thoughtful gift, and flowers when you are done is not at all a bad idea.

You will be in awkward positions, for me some preemptive Advil is best. If you do not hurt you just have that much more in reserve for the "learning experiences" . There will be several of those, always.

Have fun, think of it as a puzzle. Good wrenching.

Rod
 
Update

Well I have done nothing yet with the bike. But I did locate a used transmission off of a 2000 RT with supposedly 26000 miles. I have found an independent shop that will pull my old transmission and swap in the used one. But before I pull the trigger on the used one I have a few poor pictures of the spline and wanted to see if anyone could tell me if it looks serviceable. I know this is a long shot but worth a try for the 200 bucks that the guy wants for the tranny. Thanks in advance for your insight and ideas.
 

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NO don't do it!

There is NO WAY I would commit to buying a transmission until I had mine apart (or someone had it apart for me) as it may be another $200 gone and unneeded. IMHO you need to get this bike taken apart to evaluate WHAT is really wrong. I reread the posts and I don't believe the true reason is known absolutely. I've been there and spent money on flywheel and clutch parts for my Ford Exploder on my teacher's pittance and I ENDED UP NEEDING SOMETHING ELSE. My SO felt really bad but we had to eat ketchup soup for about two weeks to pay for it. AGGGH!
Have some fun, rip into it, take lots of pictures, ask here, show us pictures, we all have felt the pain and are here to help. AND if it isn't worth fixing you have a good start at parting it out.
 
I've done a spline lube (identical job to trans replacement except for $$$) by myself with a Hanes manual and info from several websites. Tough but can be done. I was always a throw-all-the-bolts-in-a=bucket guy. Bad idea on these. Baggies w/notes and lots of photos, labels on hoses and wires. Mine is an '02 w/ 60k on the clock so a tear-down and inspection of the innards was good insurance for a trouble-free future anyway. None of the website how-to's mentioned rear engine seal, front transmission seal or clutch slave cylinder. Not sure if all are easily replaceable at this level of tear-down but would hate to labor it again for a $50 part buried in there.

At the price, I'd jump on that used trans and be happy to use it as a doorstop on the off chance that I didn't need it. I never paid expensive insurance premiums because I was pretty sure I'd need it. Same here.

Answering to the wife? We don't co-mingle money so we stay out of each others business for a start. Second, life is bigger than the sum of its parts. My projects build me as much or more than I build them. My wife too. She has many, many good water color paintings unsold but she still paints every day because that who she is and that's what she does. My lifetime expenses on motorcycles, repairs, basket cases, rides, memories has been very modest. Not every single one of them was a bargain but overall it has been and I never was in it to make money. When I'm issued my white rocking chair, I'll have more stories than "I bought, I bought.."

The considerable reading I have done on these problems tells me there is a high probability that your transmission case was made mis-aligned to the engine and will continue to eat splines. The trans you have pictured was either built correctly or has very few miles.

Lube your splines and seize the day not visa versa.
 
If it wer me i would snap that gearbox up, simply because i know i could use it somewhere. unfortunatly i have felt the sting of this debackel on a few occasions, but this is my addiction and what i like to do. fix and ride, it takes alot of reserch and with the help of this community you can do er. happy motoring.
 
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