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Fuse for Autocom System

20774

Liaison
Staff member
I've come into possession of an Autocom Super Pro AVi system. I need to find a place to attach to power and likely it will be in the side pocket of my Luftmeister fairing. I got to thinking that I'll need to also install an in-line fuse. I'm not good with wire sizes (it's maybe 18 or 20 gauge?) and I can't find any specs for current draw in the documents I have. Hunting around on-line, I saw some places that mentioned 1 amp or 3 amps. Any recommendations on what size and type of fuse I should use?
 
I like to go with a bit larger wire as it helps with survivability with rubs and pinches. I'd think 14 to 16 ga. would be good and durable. As for the fuse, while I've never had that device, I don't believe it high draw so either a 5 or 7.5 would be appropriate. I like to keep the fuse as close to the power source as possible.
OM
 
Gary -

The power wires are built into the device, so I can't change them. There are no screws to the case...it might pop open, but I'm not comfortable going there.
 
I've been all over the site, even exchanging emails with Autocom in the UK. I already have manuals, but they don't really go into details. It mentions attaching it to a fused circuit but that's really not what I want to do...it's easier if I find my own circuit and fuse it myself. I'm really going for a temporary setup to see if this is something that I really want to do.
 
I need to find a place to attach to power...

Do you mean where to find power on the bike, or do you mean where on the Autocom you connect the power feed?

They don't draw much current; a 5a fuse and 18 gauge wire (light zip cord) will be fine.
 
Do you mean where to find power on the bike, or do you mean where on the Autocom you connect the power feed?

They don't draw much current; a 5a fuse and 18 gauge wire (light zip cord) will be fine.

I know where I can get power on the bike (my choice is inside the left fairing pocket but unfused) and the power feed to the Autocom unit is fixed, permanent. Unless I rip off the label (which I'm not inclined to do) and get access to the innards, I just need to put lugs on the end of the black/red wires from the unit. I will add an in-line fuse to the power side. Below is what I received from a friend. Not a good picture, but you can see the unit and the small black/red wire coming from the unit.
AutoCom300.jpg
 
I know where I can get power on the bike (my choice is inside the left fairing pocket but unfused) and the power feed to the Autocom unit is fixed, permanent. Unless I rip off the label (which I'm not inclined to do) and get access to the innards, I just need to put lugs on the end of the black/red wires from the unit. I will add an in-line fuse to the power side. Below is what I received from a friend. Not a good picture, but you can see the unit and the small black/red wire coming from the unit.
View attachment 42640

With your finger, you can feel the indents where the screws are, you don't need to peel the label, just cut around the screw heads. There are only two screws, one below the first O in the Autocom logo and the other underneath where it says Passenger's Volume, specifically under the "ume" in volume. The screws are #2 Phillips.
 
With your finger, you can feel the indents where the screws are, you don't need to peel the label, just cut around the screw heads. There are only two screws, one below the first O in the Autocom logo and the other underneath where it says Passenger's Volume, specifically under the "ume" in volume. The screws are #2 Phillips.

Thanks..I see them. Not sure this really gets me much...I'm sure the wiring that's on the outside is the same gauge as that on the inside. So unless I'm willing to rewire the entire thing, I might as well just deal with what I have. I'll just get the appropriate lugs for the wire gauge and a suitable fuse. That's my plan at this point.
 
Thanks..I see them. Not sure this really gets me much...I'm sure the wiring that's on the outside is the same gauge as that on the inside. So unless I'm willing to rewire the entire thing, I might as well just deal with what I have. I'll just get the appropriate lugs for the wire gauge and a suitable fuse. That's my plan at this point.

There are some internal switches and controls that you might want to access at some point -- just to get it working the way you want. And now that I think about it, you should check inside where the power cord enters the unit. On mine, the black strain-relief/bushing just inside the case was punctured by an upright resistor. The resistor burned up and the input jacks are oxidized because of it. It's worth checking.

11258524036_278560f936_c.jpg
 
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