Thinking about a new 1600GT - Do they still have issues?

Hi there - now that the 1600's have been out for a while are they fixing the teething issues? I hope 2014 will bring some improvements (refinements) to the bike. I have been holding off to allow time to work thru the issues. I have learned my lesson about being and early adopter.

I have a late issue 2012, no problems encountered so far, 12,000 miles
Sorry one problem, it eats tires:

March 2013 Production GT

Only issue thus far is weeping water pump, it was replaced under warranty without issue. (Tires don't last long, but you don't buy a bike like this to save money)

No problems here on a 2013. I guess I ride conservatively since I have 10k on my tires and still good for a couple thousand more, I think. 10k miles in 7 months.

bigwaves said:

Hi there - now that the 1600's have been out for a while are they fixing the teething issues? I hope 2014 will bring some improvements (refinements) to the bike. I have been holding off to allow time to work thru the issues. I have learned my lesson about being and early adopter.

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On my third water pump and they had to replace the left hand switch gear, but I do love mein Gisele BMW 2012 GT!

Early 2012 GT. Absolutely zero problems. 7,000 miles, still on first set of tires, probably another 2K left on them.

Thanks for the feedback. Looks like a 1600 might be in my future.

Just realized I do have a water pump issue. One drop of coolant dripped onto garage. Bike hasn't been overheating.

194084 said:

Just realized I do have a water pump issue. One drop of coolant dripped onto garage. Bike hasn't been overheating.

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Just put a diaper on it.

What, nobody going to whisper sweet things about the tranny? Well anyway, seems '14 has a new part# and a much smoother transmission and drive line lag and the lazy shift clunk are solved.

One thing that BMW should do is put that speedometer cluster (the one that is on the new "Exclusive GTL" model), and put it on all their new K1600's. So much clearer! The new DRL's (more intense angel eyes) should be a must as well (for safety sakes).

Ok, I vented... Back to the OP, bring your gear to your dealer for a test drive. Be prepared, you will fall (in love) hard!, I guarantee it and your checking account will magically and dramatically go down.

Still breaking in my 2014 GT (only 900 miles and put away for the winter) but no issues except one so far. Fuel cap doesn't completely open which makes it difficult to fuel with gas hoses having bulky vapor recovery lines. This is well-documented on other forums and at least one 3rd party supplier (Pirates Lair) makes a replacement, which I haven't purchased. Some folks complain of the whining transmission but that doesn't bother me. I constantly run through the gears & change often & don't have any transmission complaints. There is some final drive lash but that doesn't bother me -- seems to be a staple of shaft drive bikes. Am still getting used to the bike and its power which is truly amazing!

I know of 2 issues that have been a persistant problem with the 1600; L/H / R/H switches and water pumps. Both have been redesigned and incorporated in the 2014 model. After 20k miles I've suffered all on my '12 GT. Suspension isn't sufficient for heavier riders. Bike is shocked for 180lb rider which doesn't work well for aggressive riding when you're 240 lbs. Wilbers has the fix for this at about $1600. Few are happy with the seat and windshield and go to the aftermarket for replacement. I think many opt for the GTL for monetary reasons (mainly the GTL has the topcase for pennies more) and don't realize just how much difference there is between the 2 models. The GTL is a tourer, the GT is a sport tourer. Oh yea, this my .02 based on my experiences...others may rightfully differ.

gunnert said:

I know of 2 issues that have been a persistant problem with the 1600; L/H / R/H switches and water pumps. Both have been redesigned and incorporated in the 2014 model. After 20k miles I've suffered all on my '12 GT. Suspension isn't sufficient for heavier riders. Bike is shocked for 180lb rider which doesn't work well for aggressive riding when you're 240 lbs. Wilbers has the fix for this at about $1600. Few are happy with the seat and windshield and go to the aftermarket for replacement. I think many opt for the GTL for monetary reasons (mainly the GTL has the topcase for pennies more) and don't realize just how much difference there is between the 2 models. The GTL is a tourer, the GT is a sport tourer. Oh yea, this my .02 based on my experiences...others may rightfully differ.

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Hopefully they fixed it with 2014 models?As far as weight goes, the same could be said for the RT. I have to set it to two up and yes I weigh more than 240. Spending $1600 to fix it seems a little ridiculous for such an expensive bike. As far as the seats go, the GT reminds of the RT in position, the GTL is too low and it's a bucket that locks one in.

I pulled the trigger as the dealer and was going to send the money...when i found out about the left pull issue. Having been down the road and dealing with BMWNA - I am now on the fence. I looks like BMW has fixed the water pump issue and perhaps the switch gear. The left pull which is effects half the bikes out there is still unsolved. The last thing i need is to purchase another high priced BMW that requires a battle with BMW to resolve the issues.

bigwaves said:

...I am now on the fence. I looks like BMW has fixed the water pump issue and perhaps the switch gear. The left pull which is effects half the bikes out there is still unsolved. The last thing i need is to purchase another high priced BMW that requires a battle with BMW to resolve the issues.

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Hmmmm. Where in the world did you come up with the left pull which affects half the bikes out there?

Visit the K1600 forum and you'll likely learn more from the concentrated knowledge available there. www.k1600forum.com

dancogan said:

Hmmmm. Where in the world did you come up with the left pull which affects half the bikes out there?

Visit the K1600 forum and you'll likely learn more from the concentrated knowledge available there. www.k1600forum.com

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Thanks for the info.
http://www.k1600forum.com/forum/bmw-k1600-general-discussions/1425-bike-pulls-one-side-poll.html

I can't remember if I voted on that one or not, but mine falls on the good side of the equation. . . Although I got rid of the crap oem metzler z8's and have never looked back. (Showing cords at 3800 miles VERY unexpectedly). Be an interesting poll if you could combine tire and pull . . .

dancogan said:

Hmmmm. Where in the world did you come up with the left pull which affects half the bikes out there?

Visit the K1600 forum and you'll likely learn more from the concentrated knowledge available there. www.k1600forum.com

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I know absolutely nothing about the "left pull issue" but know a great deal about how the internet, mailing lists, a forum or two, and other social media can inform, but in so doing can magnify any given problem.

For example, many people now just assume that they will have a final drive failure - even though the percentage of units that actually fail is quite low - way too high for modern manufacturing though - but still a low percentage. But the probability that a given unit will fail is low - despite the fact that if it ruined your vacation at that point it doesn't matter what the failure rate is - yours is way too high.

I also know that in bare naked unloaded configuration every BMW with a single-sided swingarm built since the R80G/S in 1981 will tend to pull one direction or the other. This is because the weight is not balanced side-to-side. Most models tend to pull right because that is the side with the most weight. Some later models have the final drive, driveshaft, swingarm, and majority of transmission weight on the left. Guess which way they pull??

Thirty years ago riders figured out that about ten extra pounds in the left saddlebag made the right pull hard to notice.

If I keep my hands on the bars the bike does not pull to the left. With hands off the bars it does favor the left, if I shift in my seat about 1/4 inch it runs true. (March 2013 build)

I no longer worry about forum complaints. When I got my GS in 2002 I read about all the final drive failures and wondered for 11 years when mine would fail. After 108,000 miles it still hasn't.

Whatever happened to the dude with the cracked piston?