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restoring a 1976 BMW R75/6 - Oring Cross Over

RealOEM lets you search for European models...I've just been putting in specific VINs.

Max's fiche doesn't let you search by part number...that I can see. So, I used VINs from various model years and distribution (USA and rest of world). I found the issue. If I use a VIN from say 1979, both RealOEM and Max show the o-ring being called out. Anything from say the early 1978 models, like mine built in 9/1977 or even European bikes built in 9/1977, the o-ring is not called out. So does that mean the BMW didn't use it for a while and then decided they needed it later? Sort of like the transmission circlip?? Doesn't sound like an error...sounds like a running design change.

Here's the part listing from Max's fiche. It says from 9/78.

MaxFiche.jpg
 
RealOEM lets you search for European models...I've just been putting in specific VINs.

Max's fiche doesn't let you search by part number...that I can see.

Max's does allow you to search by part number in several ways.

SPECIFIC MODEL:

Supposing you want to search by Model: Go to that model's microfiche page. Then up at the top, and click on "Parts Catalog" THEN go to the top of new page, and click on "Search" - This will bring you to a screen where the Model number that you were on will automatically be filled in and then you can enter the BMW part number(s). It will then retrieve each fiche drawing that has that part number for that Model.

=================
ALL MODELS:

If you want to search all models at once, follow this procedure (though there may be a better one there somewhere):

Go to your model number microfiche page (for example R100/7).

Then go up and pick "Change Model" button which moves you back so you can choose a different model. However, here, don't pick another model, but go and pick "Search" (same screen as the previous example above)

Now, the "model number" box will be filled in by "All models" - proceed and enter part number(s) and you will be given each fiche page from every model that has that part number.

Actually the second "all model" method was shown to me by Rusty at Max's. I find this very helpful. For me, I knew a part number of a carb part (not shown on the R100/7 as it was a flat-top carb) and by using the part number on "all models," I was able to find a corresponding part on a different model bike that matched. This carb part issue was due to the fact that BMW messed up somehow (go figure!!) and Rusty said that one had to look for those flat top carb parts in the R75 fiche.

Hope this helps!
 
Wow...is that cumbersome! I did the search at Max's on the specific part and it brings up quite a display that is quite "tall"...I really have to scroll to find anything. I guess that's why I like RealOEM. We each get used to what works... :thumb
 
Wow...is that cumbersome! I did the search at Max's on the specific part and it brings up quite a display that is quite "tall"...I really have to scroll to find anything. I guess that's why I like RealOEM. We each get used to what works... :thumb

I notice that in the final search results, Max's has the fiche screen for each place that the part has. However, if you look, there are a lot of duplicates of the same screens on that results page. This is typical of some search engines, because they "search" from several perspectives, they get returns from each perspective - sometimes the same return may show up in each of the perspectives - thus a single result will or may turn up many times. Better search engines will examine the results and "weed out" duplicates before showing the returns to the viewer.

I have in the past just scrolled down through the multiple results pretty quickly fixing my eyes on the location of the bike model location (or whatever I am looking for) and look for the characters quickly to see if what I want is there. In the current example, I looked down through the whole listing in just a few seconds (approx. 30) and saw that the R100/7 did not appear at all. Lots of R100S's and RS's if I remember correctly.
 
Wow...is that cumbersome! I did the search at Max's on the specific part and it brings up quite a display that is quite "tall"...I really have to scroll to find anything. I guess that's why I like RealOEM. We each get used to what works... :thumb

What is the realOEM website address? I want to add it to my "motorcycle" list of favorites.
 
MAX isn't very cumbersome, but I think the description was a bit cumbersome. From the fiche home page there's a search option that takes you to the list of diagrams that use that part. Simple as that. You can optionally limit the search to certain vehicles, and pre-load the currently selected vehicle by going Parts Catalog -> Search. That's about it.

The duplication is often that you see the ECE models as well as the US vehicles, but all duplication is valid. It's a separate use of the part.
 
What is the realOEM website address? I want to add it to my "motorcycle" list of favorites.

Check the Resources Link...there's a section for on-line fiche. There are others, though not mentioned much, like Bike Bandit? In the end, all of the on-line fiche are (hopefully) last generation data from BMW is the way I understand it...Anton probably knows more. BMW gets new data, the other places get the last version...Max being a dealer might reformat the data for their own use...I have no clue. I just know that when I go to my dealer, they use something that I've never seen on-line.

There used to be a "bootleg" version of the parts catalog called ETK. I really liked it but the last time I upgraded to Win7, it wouldn't run anymore. I gave up trying to make it work and just began to rely on the internet and found one program that works well for me.
 
MAX isn't very cumbersome, but I think the description was a bit cumbersome. From the fiche home page there's a search option that takes you to the list of diagrams that use that part. Simple as that. You can optionally limit the search to certain vehicles, and pre-load the currently selected vehicle by going Parts Catalog -> Search. That's about it.

The duplication is often that you see the ECE models as well as the US vehicles, but all duplication is valid. It's a separate use of the part.

I have my browser set so that when i go to Max's, I always go to my specific model bike's fiche. So my instructions are from there, - just showing him the two ways I often use search. I never go to "home page" to start anything.
 
Bottom line, it's all about the user interface or GUI in the software world. The data behind it all is basically the same. So, it's how the data is presented or accessed. We each find an interface that we like and have figured out how to get around to get what we need. Beyond that, it's all a matter of opinion.
 
Ever have any luck?

Good afternoon,

Finally after several years I am getting to the 76 BMW R75/6 restoration. Just pulled the backend where the flywheel is located and placed my order with my local BMW dealer when the thought crossed my mind, in that has anyone crossed over the BMW part number to a Parker O-Ring number? I just find it frustrating in that I want to complete the reassembly, only to have to wait till the parts arrive which sometimes takes up to ten (10) days.

I realize this thread is somewhat old, but was just wondering whether you found the o rings you were looking for. I took my used o rings to a local place where they measured them and sold me a couple of viton rings for the oil pump cover and the flywheel. I'm still a little nervous about using them, but they look like they should work. If I use them, I can get everything back together today, which would be nice. Otherwise, it will probably be Monday before the ones I ordered arrive. The ones I got are -Flywheel 57mmx63mmx3mm. Oil pump cover- didn't have a metric, but gave me a 2-3/8 X 2.5 x 1/16.
 
I realize this thread is somewhat old, but was just wondering whether you found the o rings you were looking for. I took my used o rings to a local place where they measured them and sold me a couple of viton rings for the oil pump cover and the flywheel. I'm still a little nervous about using them, but they look like they should work. If I use them, I can get everything back together today, which would be nice. Otherwise, it will probably be Monday before the ones I ordered arrive. The ones I got are -Flywheel 57mmx63mmx3mm. Oil pump cover- didn't have a metric, but gave me a 2-3/8 X 2.5 x 1/16.

Do you mean oil pump cover, or do you mean oil filter cover?

If you know the exact o-ring size (metrics are also available) you can substitute ones from an o-ring supplier like McMaster-Carr.

Several things besides just size are also critical. The material - must be heat and oil resistant - vitons were used on hot plastic hydraulic machines, but there also is teflon, and other materials like buna - read MCarr page and it explains uses for various materials. Also critical is the durometer rating - this is how hard the oring is. 70 durometer is common, but at the plastics factory, they liked 90 better - less deformation under pressure.

One other thing, when determining oring size, be careful as some of the methods are a little "iffi." Also, try to use the proper oring for the location and measure a NEW one. Some orings get distorted after use, and sometimes expand, and sometimes shrink or get hard and brittle which makes measuring more difficult.
 
Do you mean oil pump cover, or do you mean oil filter cover?

If you know the exact o-ring size (metrics are also available) you can substitute ones from an o-ring supplier like McMaster-Carr.

Several things besides just size are also critical. The material - must be heat and oil resistant - vitons were used on hot plastic hydraulic machines, but there also is teflon, and other materials like buna - read MCarr page and it explains uses for various materials. Also critical is the durometer rating - this is how hard the oring is. 70 durometer is common, but at the plastics factory, they liked 90 better - less deformation under pressure.

One other thing, when determining oring size, be careful as some of the methods are a little "iffi." Also, try to use the proper oring for the location and measure a NEW one. Some orings get distorted after use, and sometimes expand, and sometimes shrink or get hard and brittle which makes measuring more difficult.

Good morning,

Thought I should jump in here and add some comments to JimmyLees. When I originally posted the question, I honestly thought O-rings are a standard size both in the Imperial Measurement and Metric. After spending some time at the local o-ring supply house here in Calgary, I came away being more confused than when I went in. I agree with the term "iffie", in that JimmyLee is on to something. Thought about it hard and long and decided to just wait and order the BMW OEM supplied material, cause I hate redoing things a second time because of either being in a rush or using something that I shouldn't have.

Just to add to the Durometer information, in that the harder the material the less likely you will have absorption from outside medium or gases. I have seen this first hand in my world were Viton Durometer 70 O-rings were exposed to H2S (Hydrogen Sulphide) and the o-rings absorbed the media and expanded 10 times its original size. That is a no no when working around piping and transmission equipment especially when lives are at risk, as one whiff of H2S can knock you down and send you to the gates of heaven.

Bottom line is, use BMW OEM supplied material, as you know your getting the right material and size.:clap
 
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