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Chain and sprocket replacement questions

Getting back to the original questions, changing the chain and sprockets is a pretty simple task if you possess the tools and basic skills. I also just recently changed the chain and sprockets on my F800GS in about an hour.

There is no need to drop the swingarm as was noted so long as you don't buy the factory chain which come pre sized and riveted. There are lots of good quality aftermarket chains available (don't cheap out) that will fit your bike. They will likely be a few links longer than needed, so you will need to "break" the un-needed links from the chain to get the correct length (just count how many you have now and match it up). You will also need to break the current chain to remove it. The sprockets are pretty straight forward to remove and install, you will need to remove the rear wheel for the rear sprocket.

As for changing gearing, it all depends on what you want to achieve. I have gone down one tooth on the front sprocket of my F800GS (from 16T to 15T) to reduce the gearing for easier off road riding. I don't find any major impact on top end speed (not a speed demon anyway), nor on fuel economy. As noted before, one tooth on the front will not affect the chain length, you can take up the little extra on the adjustment. To affect the same change in gearing by changing the rear sprocket takes a greater size change and would more likely affect the chain length required. You could change both sprockets to find a mid point ratio change if you wanted, keeping in mind that you might have to mess with the chain length by a link or two.

For the tools, get yourself a good quality chain tool set making sure it will perform all the required tasks of breaking the chain (which is pressing out the pins to separate the links), pressing the side plate on, and then finally riveting the pins to hold the plate in place. There are different types of pins which require different riveting styles, so get a tool that can do both (hollow nosed or soft nosed pins) or at least get the tool for whichever type you end up getting. Also good to be sure the tool is for the correct size of chain which is 5xx for your bike. While this is the most common size chain and thus, chain tool, there are other sizes around in smaller bikes and the tools for those are sized accordingly. If you want a tool recommendation, I have the Motion Pro PBR set and it works very well, is good quality and reasonably priced.
 
Is this chain tool ... any good?

This thing - usually $90 is on sale at cyclegear for $20...

http://www.cyclegear.com/CycleGear/...ain-Breaker-and-Rivet-Tool-Kit/p/36518_00000#

Q: Is it any good?

I've read some mixed reviews in terms of it being low quality and that it breaks easily...

and also read some rebuttals that say:
1) "if used correctly it works fine"..
BUT
the included instructions suck ... so go to MotionPro and read the instructions for THEIR tool which looks identical to this potential knock-off ...

I won't be using this professionally ...
if I'm lucky enough to have to swap out 10 or 15 more chains in my lifetime I'll die a happy SOB ...

MotionPro version is here: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0058/

Instructions say "For chain #520 and up, it is recommended to grind the rivet head" ???
 
Instructions say "For chain #520 and up, it is recommended to grind the rivet head" ???
I've always ground the "nub" off when splitting a chain. It just makes the tool work easier. I have yet to re-rivet a M/C chain but could if I had to- ball-pein hammer. I've done it on lots of other chains.
That's short money for that kit and no doubt would make it easier. If you are buying bulk chain, I would suggest a couple of extra links so you could try the rivet procedure on the extra links.
OM
 
Thanks OM!

I understand NOW ... they mean to grind the head off of the (existing) rivet in the chain before applying the chain breaker... :laugh

Yeah... that does make good sense on a larger sized chain!

I'll be buying a new 525 chain soon and the kit comes with what I understand to be the "hollow" pin rivet master link,
I will be sure to buy a couple extras - one for the tool bag, and one in case I @#$@#%#@$-up the first time! :laugh
 
Chain replacement

In replacing the chain and sprockets on my 2010 F650GS I could not find a bit of information in the shop manual. When replacing the drive chain you want to run the adjusters all the way forward before the chain is cut … correct? It seems to make sense a new chain will stretch and you want to maximize the amount of available adjustment.
Thoughts?
Thanks much
rtravelbee
 
In replacing the chain and sprockets on my 2010 F650GS I could not find a bit of information in the shop manual. When replacing the drive chain you want to run the adjusters all the way forward before the chain is cut … correct? It seems to make sense a new chain will stretch and you want to maximize the amount of available adjustment.
Thoughts?
Thanks much
rtravelbee

Well, I would guess that you have adjusted the chain a few times especially if you are the first owner. Being a first owner there are some hints you can use to get the correct chain length.
I usually slip a bread-tie through a link as a marker and count the links- twice :) I think the correct link count is available but I can’t remember where.......might have been listed in a parts fiche.
There are some pretty neat master link possibilities nowadays making it easier to complete the task. IIRC, a non-clip style master link is recommended above 50hp.
If you get a chance, I would be interested in the mileage on your current chain and sprocket set up.
Let us know how you make out
Gary
 
chain and sprockets

I added an 18 tooth sprocket around 3000 miles. I could probably get away with my current chain/sprockets but I am planning a run to Arkansas the end of Sept - early Oct. I have 22000 on the current setup. I went back to a 17 tooth countershaft sprocket as next year I am planning two weeks for northern / eastern Canada. I have a set of 50 /50 tires laying in wait for this outing. new tires, new sprockets, curvy roads, who could ask for anything more. It has been awhile since I have changed sprockets and chain so I am guessing I am right to run the rear wheel as far forward as I can get it. I have the stock chain so counting links is not a problem.
 
:thumb
Sounds like you are good to go by having the stock chain. 20 thousand miles is great and about what I would expect.
Thanks. Have a great, safe trip.
OM
 
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