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Diy oil change for 2014 gsw

G

ghostman

New member
DIYers Anyone change their oil in their 2014 GSW (just a quick aside, when I first saw GSW I thought what does gun shot wound have to do with BMW -lol!) ? I searched for a thread but to no avail.

Looks straight forward remove skid/bash plate unscrew drain plug and filter. Replace, replenish fluids.
Any links or photos appreciated. I enjoy reading technical material.

I used a posting from here to adjust the valves on my 2008 R1200R.
Thanks!:)
 
I did my own and it was as you suspected very straightforward. I used the BMW synthetic oil as required and an OEM filter that came with washers as normal. The oil filler cap uses the special tool that is incorporated in the screwdriver handle under the seat. You can't miss it as it one of only about three pieces called a tool kit haha.




ghost man said:
DIYers Anyone change their oil in their 2014 GSW (just a quick aside, when I first saw GSW I thought what does gun shot wound have to do with BMW -lol!) ? I searched for a thread but to no avail.

Looks straight forward remove skid/bash plate unscrew drain plug and filter. Replace, replenish fluids.
Any links or photos appreciated. I enjoy reading technical material.

I used a posting from here to adjust the valves on my 2008 R1200R.
Thanks!:)
Click to expand...
 
Here are the torque specs you need.

Oil filter to crankcase:
Lubricate sealing ring with engine oil
11 Nm


Oil drain plug to crankcase
M20 x 1.5
42 Nm
 
Oil Change Complete

Hi All,
Thanks for the input.
Changed the oil & filter and final drive gear oil.
All went well. Applied the torque values thanks.
Did the reverse torque for the final drive plug. But of course I did not write it down.
FYI 42 Nm equals 30.98 ft. lbs. ;)
 
Oil drain plug in bevel gears

M12 x 1
20 Nm


Oil filler plug to bevel gears

M12 x 1.5
20 Nm


(20 Nm = 14.75ft.lbs.)
 
Thanks Emoto/Update

Emoto thanks for the torque values.

The oil change went well but the shifting was rough. Hmmm the only thing different was the fresh oil.
So I checked the oil type in my manual it was the wrong oil a semi-syn and wrong viscosity.

I did buy the oil at a BMW dealer (I was out of town. I did not have my manual) I had the counter person check twice and insure it was the correct oil and vis. He stated it was.
He made a mistake as I did. Other wise he was very helpful and pleasant. I should've of asked to see a manual from a floor model and before changing the oil I should of checked my manual.

Just changed it again this time as per the manual* to CASTROL Power RS Racing 4T 5W-40 from Amazon $7.41 a quart + shipping. The engine is quieter and shifts like butter.

*The manual does state to use CASTROL Power 1 Racing 4T 5W-40 but that type is not listed on CASTROL's website the RS has the same ratings so I choose the RS. It did make a huge difference in the shifting and valve train noise.
 
Emoto said:
Have you tried it in a GSW?
Click to expand...

Ah, here we go. As long as it meets the spec, it's good. BMW can't require a specific oil without having to pay for it, so they have to publish a specification. If their designs are that persnickety, then it's a bigger problem than most here would be willing to admit.
 
ponch1 said:
Shell Rotella T6 is 5W-40 and is JASO MA rated.
Click to expand...

This oil does not meet the spec published. For the GSW the manual calls for 5W-40 API SJ / JASO MA2

I don't think Shell Rotella meets that spec. BTW, BMW isn't the only manuafacturer calling for this spec.

Your bike, your call.
 
gr8ridn2 said:
This oil does not meet the spec published. For the GSW the manual calls for 5W-40 API SJ / JASO MA2

I don't think Shell Rotella meets that spec. BTW, BMW isn't the only manuafacturer calling for this spec.

Your bike, your call.
Click to expand...

It's not the spec I have issues with, it's the idea that only a certain spec castrol can be used. T6 is JASO MA and SJ, but not MA2, so no, it would match that spec. I am sure other oils do.
 
ponch1 said:
Ah, here we go. As long as it meets the spec, it's good. BMW can't require a specific oil without having to pay for it, so they have to publish a specification. If their designs are that persnickety, then it's a bigger problem than most here would be willing to admit.
Click to expand...

:scratch Here we go? Where? If you've tried it, I would like to know how it worked for you. Is that out of line? If you haven't tried it, why not? I'm all for finding alternate good oils for us to use. That's good, right?
 
Emoto said:
:scratch Here we go? Where? If you've tried it, I would like to know how it worked for you. Is that out of line? If you haven't tried it, why not? I'm all for finding alternate good oils for us to use. That's good, right?
Click to expand...

I won't be trying it as I won't be buying a GSW. I was half expecting an anal "we have to use XYZ because BMW say so". Since they can't say a specific oil has to used, alternatives can and will be found.
 
After spending so much money up front for the bikes themselves I just don't get why a person would nickel and dime on critical items such as oil and filters etc. is a few bucks every so many thousand miles cheaper than a potential rebuild down the road? As I recall there was not much of a saving buying the oil from an auto store with a Castrol label than there was buying it from a dealer and giving them the business.

There are definitely cheaper bikes out there and with less fussy service specs...but we knew this when we signed on the sales agreement right?
 
ppaintguy said:
After spending so much money up front for the bikes themselves I just don't get why a person would nickel and dime on critical items such as oil and filters etc. is a few bucks every so many thousand miles cheaper than a potential rebuild down the road? As I recall there was not much of a saving buying the oil from an auto store with a Castrol label than there was buying it from a dealer and giving them the business.

There are definitely cheaper bikes out there and with less fussy service specs...but we knew this when we signed on the sales agreement right?
Click to expand...

For the most part, I agree with you. But, it is more than nickels and dimes (which I know you meant figuratively).

The bike takes about 4 quarts of oil for an oil change. My dealer gets over $18.00 per L for the BMW labelled Castrol oil; I can't recall the exact price he charges. :eek

Call it $18 X 4 = $72.00. :jawdrop


I can have a box of 6 1qt bottles of Castrol 06410 Power RS 5W-40 sent to my house for $43.14 including shipping, which equals $7.19 per Qt or $28.76 per oil change, a savings of $43.44 which is enough to buy another 6 quarts of oil. :dance

Can anyone find the BMW reference to the exact oil they are specifying? I think what I listed above is it, but am not 100% certain.
 
I am with Ponch, oil is not the special magical ring in the Lord of the Rings, and the WC is just development of the technology that is over 100 years old. Yes they shuffled clutches, transmissions etc, but the crank, bearings, chains, sprockets are not some new technology from outer space. In fact the new 800 and RKRR's have far superior technology, and more stressed than the WC, IMHO.

2nd, today's oil is far superior to anything available even 10 years ago, all you worry warts, I will just say show me a SINGLE failure of any BMW that was due to a brand name oil, I would bet a lot, that you can't.
 
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