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Not sure I want to replace the fluid on my 2013 model at this time, but the computer was in my hands, I was on the forum and that question was on my mind. However, I have noted recently that BMW now calls for a brake fluid flush at the one year mark and every other year thereafter. In fact some would argue a yearly fluid change is dollar wise. Combine that with the fact that many bikes sold in the USA have been in the pipeline for sometime, makes the effort a reasonable action. As an example, my machine was delivered in June, but was made in January...therefore it will be a year old in 2 months.

i have always flushed the brake fluids on all my motorcycles every year and those with coolant as well......30 min max to flush brakes....

never needed a speed bleeder either.....just a length of clear tubing and an old wine bottle to catch the old fluid.....easy peasy...:)

just my 2 cents worth....

wyman
 
There is instruction to bleed at the master cylinder for front brakes in addition to bleeding at calipers. QUOTE]

2010 1200GSA- Isn't this accomplished by flushing at the calipers? Is this a necessary/recommended procedure?

Thanks,

Ok, I think I am mixing up actions. So, my question I suppose is should the master cylinder be flushed by its bleeder valve when flushing the system?
Dog - I flush the front master cylinder prior to doing the front calipers. I think I heard somewhere (and it makes sense to me) that in removing the old fluid from the reservoir and refilling with fresh, you may inadvertently introduce a bit of air into the master cylinder. Bleeding just the master cylinder allows you to avoid propagating that bubble down the line. It only adds a couple of minutes to the process, but it does require one size smaller hose than the caliper bleed valves.

As far as I know there isn't a similar capability for the rear master cylinder.

JayJay
 
i have always flushed the brake fluids on all my motorcycles every year and those with coolant as well......30 min max to flush brakes....

never needed a speed bleeder either.....just a length of clear tubing and an old wine bottle to catch the old fluid.....easy peasy...:)

just my 2 cents worth....

wyman

Yep, I gotta agree. I bleed the old fashion way. I can reach everything on a bike and do it myself. I own a mity vac but just don't bother with it. The process is so simple that I've never seen any reason to buy speed bleeders or any such device. It's a 10 -15 minute procedure and so simple.

Not that I'm against other methods, just haven't felt the need for any.
 
Annual Flush - 2010 R1200RT

I think you might find that is flush after first year and then every two years after that. Rationale relates to time period between manufacture and delivery can be up to a year or more.
Regards

I run about 45,000kms per year and do a flush annually. I find the fluid quite dark at this time and as well it generally firms up the brake response at the same time. My wife just bought a new 800GT and after one month the fluid was black in the rear. I flushed this fluid and it has stayed clear for the time being (10,000kms). Everyone of these bikes I have seen looks the same. Dealer says this is normal and OK, so maybe fluid color is not a good indication of the need for fluid change ? I install speed bleeders in all bikes and for the time and expense of fluid, I will continue to do this every year...
 
I run about 45,000kms per year and do a flush annually. I find the fluid quite dark at this time and as well it generally firms up the brake response at the same time. My wife just bought a new 800GT and after one month the fluid was black in the rear. I flushed this fluid and it has stayed clear for the time being (10,000kms). Everyone of these bikes I have seen looks the same. Dealer says this is normal and OK, so maybe fluid color is not a good indication of the need for fluid change ? I install speed bleeders in all bikes and for the time and expense of fluid, I will continue to do this every year...

+1....too easy during an annual service....

wyman
 
One thing to watch out for - as the clutch disk wears - the fluid in the clutch circuit rises in the reservoir. If it rises enough it can prevent the clutch from fully engaging. This is a bad thing since it means a slipping clutch, and a continuously engaged throwout bearing at the clutch slave cylinder. Just something to watch for - especially if you're riding an ex-police bike.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but this caught my eye as I was researching periodic maintenance for my RT.

I just bought the bike used from a dealer and noticed that the clutch reservoir was dead full. The bike only has 6,400 miles on it so I doubt the clutch is worn that much. I drained the fluid to about the halfway point between min and max. The fluid was a dark green and looked fine. Clutch actuates fine with no slippage.

Do you folks think this is something that I should be concerned about as-in being run overfull causing undue wear to the clutch slave/actuation rod?
 
Help, BLEED, Cannot on Rear, Air in LINE WHAT HELP

OK< I read all the posts, Have a spongy front lever for the 2012 ABS system , decide to bleed rear.
so did it normal, Nothing comes out of the rear, Pump, close, pump, close, etc.

So I put a clear hose over the bleeder valve loosened it, pumped sucked, closed, pumped sucked close, some fluid came out and lotssa bubbles, than no fluid (from the bleeder holes, I think)......I should be getting fluid, nothing coming out...

ARRGH What is going on no fluid means no brakes in the rear, I have not taken it out on the road yet, but the light was NOT ON BEFORE.

suggestions please.:scratch:scratch
 
Just to be clear, you are doing this in exactly this order and never once skipped a step:

  1. Apply brake pressure.
  2. Hold brake pressure.
  3. SLOWLY open the nipple while maintaining pressure on the lever (or pedel).
  4. Let the lever (or pedal) sink slowly to the stop and HOLD.
  5. Close the nipple while holding it fully depressed.
  6. Release the lever (or pedal).

It is critically important not to let up pressure on the lever (or pedal) until AFTER you fully close the nipple. If you let up on the lever (or pedal) at all you will suck air up into the fluid passages. It is also critical to keep enough fluid in the reservoir to not allow the intake to open to the air or, again, you'll be sucking air into the system.

If you think you didn't do this correctly, then that's why your brakes feel mushy. Not to fear though. Make sure you have enough brand-new brake fluid on hand, and run through this procedure until you see no bubbles in the fluid coming out of the nipple (look at the tubing - which BTY need to be transparent).
 
What is going on no fluid means no brakes in the rear, I have not taken it out on the road yet, but the light was NOT ON BEFORE. Suggestions please.:scratch:scratch

Seriously dude, not trying to be a jerk here but your life depends on the brakes working. If you don't know how to do this correctly, or don't understand what might be wrong, please take it to a shop. Do not ride it if you are not sure the brakes are fully functioning.
 
Seriously dude, not trying to be a jerk here but your life depends on the brakes working. If you don't know how to do this correctly, or don't understand what might be wrong, please take it to a shop. Do not ride it if you are not sure the brakes are fully functioning.


BEST advice yet....:thumb
 
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