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2000 R1100RT Spline Lube

detbmw

Active member
A buddy (Jeff448) and I are planning to do a clutch spline lube on my 2000 R1100RT sometime in the next month.

I'm looking for specific, step-by-step instructions for an R1100RT. I've found instructions for an R1150RT, but not an 1100.

Thanks, Rich
 
A buddy (Jeff448) and I are planning to do a clutch spline lube on my 2000 R1100RT sometime in the next month.

I'm looking for specific, step-by-step instructions for an R1100RT. I've found instructions for an R1150RT, but not an 1100.

Thanks, Rich

The 1100RT is the same as the 1150RT except it has a mechanical clutch. There is a very detailed video of the entire procedure done on an 1100RT. Search for it. PM me if you can't find it. ( It's too large to post or email. It's on a DVD, but very, very detailed and a must if this is your first spline lube. )
 
The 1100RT is the same as the 1150RT except it has a mechanical clutch. There is a very detailed video of the entire procedure done on an 1100RT. Search for it. PM me if you can't find it. ( It's too large to post or email. It's on a DVD, but very, very detailed and a must if this is your first spline lube. )

Thanks, I'll look around for the video. This is my first oilhead spline lube, but Jeff's second - he did his R1150RT a couple of years ago. Last winter we did a spline lube on my K75S, but the oilhead is a little different.
 
Plus, we have Awagnon's check list.
What could go wrong??

Apart from all the stuff that usually happens when I work on bikes, I mean.
 
+1 on Awagnon's check list.

A thoroughly useful gift to the MOA community. I hope to make use of it later this winter.
 
Do a search for ......... pictorial.......... and you will find a thread I posted walking through the process, plus I included a bunch of other threads posted concerning the same procedure.
 
Check the clutch as well?

There has been a lot of discussion about greasing the tranny input splines, all the way back to my first dry clutch thumper. What I haven't seen is a lot of discussion about popping the clutch apart and having a look to make sure you have good clutch friction material left or you haven't heat checked the mating surfaces.

I have to rip my tranny down, since I'm there, I will tear the clutch apart and have a boo. If I see my rear engine seal has seen better days, I will horse it out as well.

If it's a matter that you need the tools, I will send them to you if you pay the postage. I make my own tools and if you have them and share with others that need them and they don't get returned, I will make more. Mine are specific to R1100's but I can make them to fit yours if R1150's are different sizes.

Should just add that "rip, tear, horse, pop and boo" are my terms and do not reflect the "gentlemen/gentlewoman" that some perceive Beemer owners are. I also don't have a spreadsheet to show you how ripping, tearing, popping or horsing the clutch out to have a good look will increase your fuel economy or make your bike start a half second better.
 
Different Karma

So..oo.. does that mean Dieselyoda is the yang to Roger 04 RT's yin? I gotta say we appreciate you both.
Weather the winter well, wrench lots, tip a Molson by the fire for us all.
Ralph
 
Prepare to be scared of never getting it back together, But somehow it does all fit together.

I suggest you frequently pull in the clutch while tightening up the engine-transmission bolts to minimize the chances of any misalignment. I don't have full faith in those small alignment pins/spools.

And post closeup pictures of the shaft spline so we can get an idea of any wear.
 
Very well written and truly an opinion greatly appreciated.

So..oo.. does that mean Dieselyoda is the yang to Roger 04 RT's yin? I gotta say we appreciate you both.
Weather the winter well, wrench lots, tip a Molson by the fire for us all.
Ralph

It does take all kinds to make a community doesn't it? Life would kinda suck if we all rode RT's and we couldn't make fun of those that ride Bricklets.

Some pretty damn good comments rdhudson. Winter starts in a few hours with two inches of snow already and another six expected by afternoon. I got 6 bikes to pretend I know what I'm doing with this winter and see if I can make them run again, 2 are mine. I have 4 cords of firewood ready for the shop and friends that know my interest only lasts as long as my beer.
 
Should just add that "rip, tear, horse, pop and boo" are my terms and do not reflect the "gentlemen/gentlewoman" that some perceive Beemer owners are. I also don't have a spreadsheet to show you how ripping, tearing, popping or horsing the clutch out to have a good look will increase your fuel economy or make your bike start a half second better.

I do enjoy reading some of your humourous comments DY. Some of it is probably even funnier if you're Canadian. I can certainly do without the cheap shots that are obviously aimed at Roger04RT. I don't know or actually care what your issue is but the facts are Roger has contributed an awful lot of great work and advanced our knowledge here in the BMW community. He generously shares his well researched findings with all of us. These obvious slurs and insults serve no purpose here.

So how about you knock it off eh?
 
I do enjoy reading some of your humourous comments DY. Some of it is probably even funnier if you're Canadian. I can certainly do without the cheap shots that are obviously aimed at Roger04RT. I don't know or actually care what your issue is but the facts are Roger has contributed an awful lot of great work and advanced our knowledge here in the BMW community. He generously shares his well researched findings with all of us. These obvious slurs and insults serve no purpose here.

So how about you knock it off eh?

Yeah, eh, I kinda agree with you, just a bit though eh?

My single largest problem is that only a few are capable of discerning the mountain of information sometimes presented here. I'm still stuck on simpler is better.
 
I did my 2002.
Seemed like carefully grouping parts and fasteners and labeling some of the cans was a hell of a lot more important than anything I'd ever worked on before. Also, just got finished and read a post to be sure to replace either the rear engine or front transmission seal. Damn.
 
Halfway there

Jeff448 & I (mostly Jeff) started the spline lube on my 2000 R1100RT yesterday. We broke the bike down (see pic below) and lubed the side & center stand. The bike has 140K on it so I had ordered a clutch from Motobins (with a heat-resistant friction plate!). The friction plate on the bike was worn down to 4.5mm and the minimum by the book is 4.8. So we installed the clutch last night, then remounted the transmission. Jeff made a Tranny Trolley (patent pending), so we left the transmission-to-the-final drive as one unit and moved it around the lift on the trolley. About 25K ago I had to have my FD rebuilt by Anton Largiader so we saw no reason to break it all apart so soon. Unfortunately when I bought the bike 2 & 1/2 years ago it already had FD issues and didn't know enough about BMWs to recognize the problem.

Today we are reassembling the rest of the bike. If we hadn't stopped to lube the stands and replace the clutch, we might have been done in one day. For some reason we just could not get the transmission back into the bike. I bet we spent most of an hour on it. We decided to remove the new clutch and remount it, and then the transmission went in on the first try.

In the picture, the transmission-to-the-final drive is on the floor behind the bike, next to Jeff.

photo1_zps6028fe44.jpg
 
Love them spline lubes, cruisers got er skirt blowed up.
 

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Yes this is a yar and a half old now

But I plan on doing the spline lube inspection / lube on my 96 RT. Will be using the checklist and other posts to work thru it.

This will be a summer long project as I will work around my work schedule to work on it.
 
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