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How do I remove my R1200C's ignition switch and wiring?

MGMcAnick

New member
I recently bought a slightly damaged R1200C that got about 2" too close to something. It broke the windshield, headlight, headlight bracket, and speedometer housing. The bike sat out for several months after the accident. I have located some of the parts I need to start riding it, but the issue right now is not being able to start it.

The key will turn to the steering locked with the parking lights on, steering locked, and steering unlocked positions, but it WILL NOT go to the on position. I suspect this is due to its sitting outside with the key in the switch. Any guesses as to how to free it up without taking it off of the bike and/or replacing it? I have tried WD-40 at the dealer's suggestion, also silicone spray, PB Blaster, and compressed air to no avail. I put air in where the key goes as well as a small hole in the side that is probably a drain. WD-40 comes out when I spray it in the top.

Failing that, how do I get the switch off of the bike? The bolts that hold it in appear to be machined so that they are inserted with a special socket that will only turn them INwards. I can drill a hole and use and EZ-Out, but maybe there's a better way. Also, how do I get the wiring out of the switch, preferably before I take it off of the bike? There are a couple of what appear to be plugs that might hold the wiring in place, but I hate to drill something out that will have no effect. One plug looks like brass, the other aluminum. The latter WAS covered by red paint, and has tiny threads inside. Are the lock and switch actually too separate things as they are on a car?

Why would my oddly shaped key work in three positions, but not the ON one. The three local locksmiths I've talked to have no ideas.
 
I will try chromeheads...

but it is exactly the same switch found on my R1150RT and K1200GT.

Later edit: They say it may take a few days to have my request for inclusion to be approved.
 
There's probably either a burr or a gob of corrosion in the cylinder's "clockwise" rotation; if WD, PB, and air didn't help, it's probably not going to budge without detail disassembly.
It may be less hassle to R&R the switch assembly, but then you need to consider how important is it to have One key for all of the bike. If you're very lucky, and/or patient for a special order, you may be able to buy a switch already matched to your key number.
The "anti-tamper" screws require an official locksmith tool to remove, or an EZ-Out.
I'm not sure, but I believe that the switch is "pigtailed" so that its sub-harness unplugs from the main harness; and it doesn't unplug right at the switch. More knowledgeable answers invited.
 
Eureka

I went to the Chromeheads website as suggested and found a thread with their search function. Even though I have not yet been approved to post there, I could read this: http://www.chromeheads.org/discus/messages/6/518304.html It pretty well told me what I needed to know to take my switch apart. The lock mechanism rotated perfectly with the switch removed. Yes, they are two separate pieces, just like on a car.

Once I had the switch off of the bottom of the lock mechanism it was easy to pry the plastic tabs and take it apart. There were a couple of small pieces scattered where they should not have been. I guess it happened when the bike got thumped. In order to do the jigsaw puzzle, I took the switch on my K1200GT apart in the same fashion for a pattern. Thirty minutes later both switches were functioning properly, and both bikes were running. I'm still smiling.

Thanks for your suggestion Happy Wanderer. I'll be wandering on my "new" cruiser as soon as I get the new headlight mounted.
 
Hey glad you found the right info over on chromeheads.org. Those guys are both knowledgeable and dedicated to the cruisers. And if you're willing to crack open your working 1200 switch to fix your cruiser switch you should fit right in! :thumb
 
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