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1978 r100

My 1980 100RT oozed and dripped oil from numerous places (pan, rocker covers, neutral switch, cylinder bases etc etc). Finally I have gotten her leak free. For cylinder bases, new base o ring, plus a very thin coating of red Hi Temp gasket sealer. The neutral switch just needed replacing. The oil pan and rocker cover leaks were solved by installing silicone gaskets (Real Gaskets Inc). Some folks hate them and some love them, but I have had very good success with silicone.

Like the guys say, just freshen up the fluids, clean it and then ride and see what shows. When I bought my bike , it seemed to be covered in oily slime...After a good cleaning I was able to see what was oozing. PS My oil consumption has gone noticeably down so I musta been slinging oil a lot
 
washer on neutral switch

I believe the washer on the neutral switch is different from the other drain gaskets.
Max BMW lists this as the correct gasket to prevent more leaks!
61 31 1 355 262 GASKET RING - A 12,2 X 20-AL
Hopefully this item was ordered along with the new switch. I am planning on a new switch after riding season ends and have the washer (gasket ring) marked and set aside so I don't use it somewhere else!!!
kurt
 
In NE right now driving a 914 home from LA with a friend.

Will keep updating as I progress

Thread Hijack Alert:

Owned a 914/6 GT in the mid 70s. Was one of my favorite cars. Bought it with a 2.3L bored 911S engine putting out 220hp and campaigned it in some races back in Germany. Have to dig out some pics!
It was "Zitronengelb". They probably named the color different here in the U.S.:D
 
Thread Hijack Alert:

Owned a 914/6 GT in the mid 70s. Was one of my favorite cars. Bought it with a 2.3L bored 911S engine putting out 220hp and campaigned it in some races back in Germany. Have to dig out some pics!
It was "Zitronengelb". They probably named the color different here in the U.S.:D


Not to continue the Hijack but...the 914 & 914/6 never received much acclaim , {IMO} because of the VW connection ? But I always liked them...particularly the /6 of course !
Correct me if I'm wrong but they actually handled better than the 911 ? I only drove one once...so I'm no expert. Drove a "71" Carrera RSR once as well.....WoW!
 
Here it is a a fuel stop in CA.
This is the first 914 that I have driven, and yes, it handles incredible...especially for a 40 year old car.
This is my friends daily driver. His other 914 is also a 74' and the 2013 Porsche Parade Concours winner, so it does not get driven much, these days.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/orthobiz/9968558045/" title="upload by orthobiz, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7365/9968558045_900a66acaf.jpg" width="500" height="500" alt="upload"></a>


I will get back to my /7 this weekend and will update ASAP.
 
Not to continue the Hijack but...the 914 & 914/6 never received much acclaim , {IMO} because of the VW connection ? But I always liked them...particularly the /6 of course !
Correct me if I'm wrong but they actually handled better than the 911 ? I only drove one once...so I'm no expert. Drove a "71" Carrera RSR once as well.....WoW!

Not to even further continue the hijack but... yes, the 914s handled better than the 911s. Basically because of the weight distribution due to the mid-engine concept. And of, course, the snooty Porsche purists snubbed them, because of the VW connection. But even in the stock form with the 2.0L 110hp flat six, the 914/6 ate the 2.2L 911 for lunch , unless you had the "S" version with 50 hp more than the 914.
Porsche had a plan to remedy this with a 916, which was shown at the Paris Auto Show and then pulled just before introduction. 20 were built. This would be the one. But I would settle for my GT back also. Just 250 made.
 
Not to even further continue the hijack but... yes, the 914s handled better than the 911s. Basically because of the weight distribution due to the mid-engine concept. And of, course, the snooty Porsche purists snubbed them, because of the VW connection. But even in the stock form with the 2.0L 110hp flat six, the 914/6 ate the 2.2L 911 for lunch , unless you had the "S" version with 50 hp more than the 914.
Porsche had a plan to remedy this with a 916, which was shown at the Paris Auto Show and then pulled just before introduction. 20 were built. This would be the one. But I would settle for my GT back also. Just 250 made.

Moving to Campfire..
 
at least it was German air cooled boxers...:hide

sorry Kurt...

but to the OP...tools for the job. If you don't have a low range torque wrench,
you might consider getting one. The torque spec on the pan bolts feels crazy
weak in the hand. I found it real easy to over do them if not using the torque
wrench. IIRC (and I don't think I do), the torque is 6 ftlbs??
 
but to the OP...tools for the job. If you don't have a low range torque wrench,
you might consider getting one. The torque spec on the pan bolts feels crazy
weak in the hand. I found it real easy to over do them if not using the torque
wrench. IIRC (and I don't think I do), the torque is 6 ftlbs??

Thanks...I do have a low range torque wrench and will be using it wherever applicable.
I hope to get my new tires on this weekend as well as cleaning and detailing those hard to reach (unless the wheels are off) areas. The wheels themselves will take quite a bit of time, I'm sure.

While the wheels are off I plan on packing some fresh grease into the bearings provided they feel smooth...if not, it's new bearings.
Any tips or hints on greasing the old bearings?

Thanks.
 
Thanks...I do have a low range torque wrench and will be using it wherever applicable.
I hope to get my new tires on this weekend as well as cleaning and detailing those hard to reach (unless the wheels are off) areas. The wheels themselves will take quite a bit of time, I'm sure.

While the wheels are off I plan on packing some fresh grease into the bearings provided they feel smooth...if not, it's new bearings.
Any tips or hints on greasing the old bearings?

Thanks.

Remove the seals and replace with new (purchase from Max's - around $6 each). almost required to replace even when just greasing as you need to force them out to inspect and will almost always damage when removing.

Look closely at each of the outer races (cups) for any pitting. and remove all old dried up grease, etc.

Look at the rollers of the inner race unit (the cone) by thoroughly cleaning. then inspect each roller for any pitting.

One thing NOT to do is what was popular as a joke for fun, is to use an air gun and "spin" the bearing using air pressure while holding the bearing in your hand. Could explode! Blowing out is OK, just don't allow it to spin.

If you need bearings, Max's for me was actually less expensive than the local bearing stores. -- And I live in the community where the tapered roller bearing was invented by Timken!

When greasing with fresh grease, the old mechanic's method is to put a blob of grease in the palm of one hand, and then thoroughly work the grease into all the inner spaces of the cone with the other hand holding the bearing and pushing and working it (neading) into the blob of grease.

Optional because some people disagree on this, but: I always put more grease into the bearing area than just on the bearings. My reasoning is because that is what I was taught years ago, but it also helps keep dirt and any moisture that may leak in from the seals away from the bearings. If you grease this way every couple of years, those bearing should last hundreds of thousands of miles - actually, never wear out!

One last thing. Inspect the surface where the inner lip of the seal rides on. Be sure it is clean and smooth. In my opinion, it doesn't hurt to take some 600 to 1,000 grit wet-or-dry with a little solvent (like kerosene or even paint thinner) and lightly "polish" the surface. If that item has a deeper groove worn in it, you may want to replace, or at least see if seal (or spacer) can be located a little further in or out so that the new seal has a new location where it can ride. Be sure to lubricate seal when installing - helps to allow it to slide into location with less possibility of "grabbing" and "rolling". If seal has a spring on inner seal as some do, be sure not to damage or accidentally pull it out unknowingly.
 
I got the trans, final drive and driveshaft lubes changed and had about 5.5 hours more to devote to the /7 Saturday so I detailed the front end.











Today I hope to get to the front wheel bearings, detail the rear of the bike and repack rear wheel bearings.
Tires go on Monday.

Then put a couple hundred miles on before tackling the carbs.

I might be sick, but...THIS IS FUN STUFF!:bliss
 
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Making Progress

One month to the day...

Most of you know what's involved with resurrecting on of these fine machines so I will not bore you with any more details...

This morning it was 39 degrees, so for kicks I went out to the garage, set the "enricher" (say choke) at full, opened the fuel petcocks, turned on the key and hit the starter button. Within two seconds... it was running! I am not surprised, but I am amazed since I have not yet touched the carburetors.















I have some more cleaning and polishing to do, but it is progressing very nicely. I found crash bars that are in better condition and am looking for a set of near perfect peanut style rocker covers... cuz I like the look.

Goin' out for a ride this afternoon...we need to bond.:hug
 
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Oh well...the bonding session I had planned did not happen today...but that's OK.
My wife surprised me with taking 1/2 day off work to spend my 60th BD cruising the backroads of northern MI enjoying the colors, then a movie and dinner. (I know what you're thinking, but, she does not ride, so taking the /7 was not an option)

Hope the rain stops for the weekend, and I can take the time away from work...we need to bond, and I want to get some riding time in.
 
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