Product to "re-galvanize" bolts?

I put this question at the end of the "fuel tank whoosh" thread because Dave mentione using a zinc chromate to treat a spot where he had some corrosion. But that wasn't the right place for it since it is a completely new subject.

I'm going through and completely tearing a K75C apart and cleaning it up. Most of the screws and bolts have some surface corrosion, especially the heads that have been exposed to the elements. They look fine once I clean them up with the wire wheel on my bench grinder.

They look nice now, but I'm sure they will rust easily. I live in LA so it won't happen fast, but rust never sleeps.

Is there a product I can use to put a new coating on them? I know I could just buy new bolts, and I think I will probably do that over time, replacing them with stainless steel. But I need to do someting now.

Any ideas? Is zinc chomate a solution? A little casual web research tells me it more like a paint and I do not want to paint most of them.

Looks like a trade-off

The zinc chromate is a paint, we use it in our shop; it has its' place. McMaster-Carr sells it. Electroplating is the only alternative, to a paint, I can see. As versed with that, I'd sooner (& did) go stainless. That it's apart already makes a big difference, too. G.H. <<<)))

I'll second the stainless idea. Although most of the Bolt Guys pre-packaged kits are for R bikes, I'm sure all it would take is a phone call.
Another thought: don't be persuaded to replace all your bolts with stainless. Stainless is a stringy metal, as metals go, and isn't proper for all applications. (ie: swingarm bolts, caliper bolts, etc) For those, try "plating" in the yellow pages. You should be able to find a shop willing to do a batch as small as yours. If NOT (it is LA, CA. after all) you're more than welcome to send them to me and I'll take them to my guy and have them do 'em. It's a minimum $40 and I probably have well over that myself. It's like $10/lb or something.

And FWIW, I've begun a new program. I had a bunch of bolts left over from an abandoned restoration I did so now when I need a new bolt, I dig one out of that box and put the old one back in a coffee can. When I get enough to make a load, I put them in a rock polisher with some Castrol Purple and some abrasive and let 'em roll for a day or so. They come out brand spanking grey and then I take 'em to the plater so I end up with a BIG batch of genuine German/BMW/OEM plated hardware at the ready. May not work for everyone, but I have 7 euro bikes and 4 BMW's so for me it's cost effective.

Maybe in bulk that's cost effective, but I just replaced a bunch of bolts on a rusty bike and they were all like 20 cents, 30 cents each at the dealer. For $5 you can replace a double handful of bolts with new. Replating bolts, you have used heads and threads.

Stainless is a stringy metal?

dlearl said:

Stainless is a stringy metal, as metals go, and isn't proper for all applications. (ie: swingarm bolts, caliper bolts, etc) QUOTE]

Thanks for the ideas. Tell me more about your statement regarding stainless. What does being a "stringy" metal mean? Why is that a problem for swingarms, calipers etc?

Click to expand...

Different metals...

have different characteristics. Like shear, elongation & torsional specs VS diameter & length. In critical areas, I'd stay stock & figure out a way to make it cosmetically acceptable where you see it. G.H. <<<)))

> For $5 you can replace a double handful of bolts with new. Replating bolts, you have used heads and threads.

In the applications I deal with, authenticity is my main concern. You can't find German or Italian OEM bolts at MY hardware store. IMHO, used heads and threads are only an issue when cheap tools are used or in single use applications (like head bolts or nylocks). One of the reasons I use OEM hardware is that they do last.

>What does being a "stringy" metal mean? Why is that a problem for swingarms, calipers etc?

How long you got? People go to school for years to answer those questions! A google search on "material strength" will get you started.
The short answer that my feeble brain can muster is that a hardened steel (grade 8 or above) won't flex under strain like a stainless one will. For many applications, the "stainless" aspect is more valuable, to avoid corrosion. But in a caliper or swingarm application the softer stainless bolt could flex which could eventually result in something similar to bending a paperclip back and forth. Granted, it's a long shot, but I'm not willing to bet MY life on it. You?