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2010 (DOHC) R1200GS Engine Vibration

Can you connect your gs-911 and set it up to log realtime values to a CSV file? Then start and let it run 5 minutes. All without touching the throttle. And then send me the csv file to review?

This would let us verify the interaction of the sensors in a format where I have comparative data.
RB
 
Last edited:
Roger 04 rt,

If you don't think it is the Lambda sensors do you have a different suggestion? I started this thread a while back and another on ADVrider. This thread seemed to have more concious thought as it progressed. So I am open to suggestions because I would rather be riding than fixing and this BMW is starting to resemble a "Hanger Queen"!

Please, I am listening!

Thanks,
rac

In an earlier post you mentioned that pulling in the clutch at a speed/RPM where you get vibration results in the vibration stopping. Here are some other points to test.

If the bike is on its stand, in neutral, does the vibration occur in the problem RPM range?

If you cruise at high rpm, then close the throttle while you decelerate through the problem rpm range does the vibration happen?

If you run in the problem rpm range on a downslope, is there vibration?

If you run in the bad range going up an incline is the vibration more or less?

RB
 
In an earlier post you mentioned that pulling in the clutch at a speed/RPM where you get vibration results in the vibration stopping. Here are some other points to test.

If the bike is on its stand, in neutral, does the vibration occur in the problem RPM range?Yes and it gets worse with higher rpm

If you cruise at high rpm, then close the throttle while you decelerate through the problem rpm range does the vibration happen?NO

If you run in the problem rpm range on a downslope, is there vibration? A lot less than going uphill

If you run in the bad range going up an incline is the vibration more or less? MORE

RB

I send you a pm requesting your email so I can send you the CVS file.

Thanks,
TJ
 
My bike is a 09 R1200 GSA with 45k miles. A few days ago I made a quick 520 miles round trip on the super slab and was pretty annoyed by the vibrations between 4000 and 5500 rpm. The vibrations got worse with hp output or with a load increase like going uphill or head wind. going down hill it was bearable. Pull in the clutch at speed and it's smooth as glass. Therefore mine is definitely engine related.

My right mirror is vibrating more than the left (just another observation). Yesterday I started trying to figure out if I could figure out what is causing this and if I could make some improvements. After reading several post and what others have found I think I have several issues.

One thing that I found was that my bike runs the same if I disconnect the bottom stick coils. However when I disconnect the main side coils it wont go over 40 mph. Its run and idles with reduced power and completely dies under load, just like it hit the rev limiter or somebody hit the kill switch. From reading the above post I think it might be save to conclude that my bike has an electrical issue with either the bottom plugs, stick coils, or some other electrical issue. Because it happened under load it think it must be the stick coils.

Besides the bottom plug issue I was able to make a significant, therefore noticeable improvement. Checked valve clearance and all where within spec. Just did them about 3000 miles ago. Got the GS-911 out and went thru the whole thing and made no changes as none where necessary either. When I checked the throttle body syn the FIRST time it was within spec also. The 2nd time I decided to put a tee in the line and leave the hose that hooks up on the LH throttle body (US models only) as part of the test. There is was a noticeable difference. Throttle body sync near perfect as I have ever seen it with the hose disconnect, Sinc is all messed with it hooked up. This hose goes to the charcoal canister and can be disconnected. I decided to go test ride the bike with the hose off and the test port plugged. Bottom line for me, less vibration, smoother at idle, noticeable clearer right mirror. I have a winner here!!!

After these findings I decided to figure out a way to leave my synchronization tool hooked up during these short test rides. By doing that I found out two things. Right now synchronizations is best when the LH test port is plugged. Its even better when the bottom stick coils are disconnected (I already found out earlier that I must have some issues with those).

FYI must sync tool is simply a 15 ft clear hose filled for about 1/3 with transmission fluid. The specific gravity of transmission fluid is roughly 14 times less than mercury. The highest difference that I observed was 6" transmission fluid (= 0.4"Hg not bad). The best was, dead even at 4500 rpm and <1" at idle.

I think we should keep this thread going and when both bottom stick coils are replaced I will report back.

TJ,
Just sent you a pm with my email address.
RB
 
strmboui05

In an earlier post you mentioned that pulling in the clutch at a speed/RPM where you get vibration results in the vibration stopping. Here are some other points to test.

If the bike is on its stand, in neutral, does the vibration occur in the problem RPM range?

If you cruise at high rpm, then close the throttle while you decelerate through the problem rpm range does the vibration happen?

If you run in the problem rpm range on a downslope, is there vibration?

If you run in the bad range going up an incline is the vibration more or less?

RB

Answer: 1. Yes
2. No
3. Yes
4. increases
 
2010 DOHC engine vibration

In order to test them for accuracy you need a source of specific air/gas type and control O2 sensor temperature.

Another way is to put them in an exhaust with a second bung added and compare each sensor with an LC-1. If you wanted to send both of them to me, I can do it.

This is a perfect replacement but you have to cut and splice with posilock connectors. $79 at Beemerboneyard.

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11781464492n.html

I will be surprised if lambda sensors solve your problem.

The current update:
Replaced all throttle cables and measured slack on both sides (.5-1.0mm). Also ensured TBs' butterflys hit stops same time using a balance tube with steppers disconnected with Lambda sensors connected. balance of right vrs left, one higher.

Disconnected the Lambda Sensors and the battery (30 mins+) to delete last mapping from memory. This way mapping returns to default mapping and a richer fuel/air mixture. Connected GS911 and re-sync TBS according to procedure (locking out Steppers) and using a Motion Pro SynchPRO Carb Tuner to balance TBs. Minimal correction on right cable to bring TBs straight across measurement on both sides. Vibration still there but minimized and moved to lower RPM, approx. 33-35K through the rest of the range. Very smooth idle until you throttle up to the 33k range then vibration returns. Shut down the bike using GS 911 procedure (waiting for the Steppers to come back on). Restarted bike (Lambda sensors still disconnected) idles smooth but vibration (diminished) still thereat 33k RPM.

Shut the bike down and re-connected the Lambda sensors and started bike. Waited for temp to rise and Lambda sensors kicked in and engine vibration introduced immediately at a slightly higher RPM 43-45K RPM and up through the rest of the RPM range.

My conclusion was the Lambda sensors were introducing something into the mapping and I took the bike to the dealer to have them check on Oscilloscope. Result: all good. I am picking up bike and file of the test/scope today. I will send you the file if you would like to see it?

Another way to look at this lambda sensor test is that they may be masking another problem because with the default mapping on the vibration is still there.

Open to suggestions. I have been working on this problem since April 2012.
 
O2 Sensors for 2010 R1200GS (Camhead)

In order to test them for accuracy you need a source of specific air/gas type and control O2 sensor temperature.

Another way is to put them in an exhaust with a second bung added and compare each sensor with an LC-1. If you wanted to send both of them to me, I can do it.

This is a perfect replacement but you have to cut and splice with posilock connectors. $79 at Beemerboneyard.

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11781464492n.html

I will be surprised if lambda sensors solve your problem.

Are you sure that these O2 sensors will work on the 2010 R1200GS (Camhead)? The stock (OEM) ones are made by NTK for BMW. NTK/NGK do not make an aftermarket O2 Sensor for the OEM O2 Sensor. Is the voltage the same?

Thanks,
strmboui
 
Latest Update to Cam head engine vibration problem

I am writing in regards to a problem I am having with my 2010 BMW R1200GS. Have any of you experienced a high-mid frequency vibration isolated to the engine with a loss of power starting at 3700 up to 8000 RPM?

The base line is an engine that has the throttle bodies sync, valves adjusted and reprogrammed engine control unit by the dealer. This bike was very smooth through this revolution range up to the 24 K service. Now both hands and feet become numb due to the engine vibration that was not there prior to 24K. This bike did have a recall performed for the camshaft sensor reductor replacement.

The local dealers are stumped and their only answer is keep riding it and perhaps it will get better. I would appreciate any help/advice to get the bike to run as it use to prior to the 24K service.

Right now I have two options, ride it like it is or sell it!

Thanks
rac

Just another update in the Cam Head Sage of Engine vibration:

First I want to say thanks to all of you for your support, ideas and suggestions. Just wanted you all to know I appreciate your time in effort to solve this BMW problem. Thanks! rac

Pulled the the valve covers and checked all valves. Each valve right in tolerance, couldn't go up or down (.05mm) on any valve to get closer to middle range. Did another re-sync of TBs with GS911 and Motion Pro SynchPRO Carb Tuner and got the vibration to move to start around 43-45K and up through the RPM range. This was at the idle range 0f 1100-1800 rpm range.

I am completely stumped! Taking the bike to different dealer here in Colorado and see if they can break the code! I will give you a complete report after diagnosis and fix!

rac
 
When were your plugs chsnged last... I just changed all 4 on my 2012, and it made a big difference in the smoothness of the engine... both at idle and running...

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
 
Sparkplug change

When were your plugs chsnged last... I just changed all 4 on my 2012, and it made a big difference in the smoothness of the engine... both at idle and running...

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

I changed all when I did the last TB-Sync, no change.
 
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