wineguyd
WineGuyD
It might be an idea for the OP to have a chat with our BMWMOA dealer liaison officer.
Good point.
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It might be an idea for the OP to have a chat with our BMWMOA dealer liaison officer.
Here's a different thought, should you wish to take charge and work through parameters and functions that remain locked mysteriously within your engine's ecu, there is always the programmable controllers from megasquirt that allow you to dial in or change any level of ignition and fuel injection control for economy, power, or smoother performance as the case may be. (not add on system but controlling entire process stem to stern).
This obviously isn't for everyone, for sure the faint of heart that are not wishing to learn everything that you can about this technology and your particular ride.
Not meant to be a pitch for that product (although affordable enough), but certainly a means to an end. In my case the old air head can do 50-55mpg (Cdn) while venturing into serious turbo boost as the random occasion might present itself. Oilheads are in general much better suited to such a change.
Sorry if this offends the purist approach, but I decided to let the Genie out.
Lorne.
Megasquirt has an excellent, but technically deep, website. Have a look and see what you think: http://www.megamanual.com/index.html.
The front right caliper came off the fork mount but stayed trapped on the rotor and was dangling.
Are the calipers really sticking? When you roll the bike, is there resistance? A little bit of friction when the wheel is off the ground isn't a big deal.
If so, have the pads been changed? Old pads (that have sat for a long time without use) will drag; you have to replace them.
Even that is disturbing to say the least. Because if you didn't know it and applied the brakes the caliper would grab the disc and rotate with it until the caliper rammed into the fork leg. At least cosmetic damage to the caliper and fork leg would be likely, which would the dealer's cost to replace. All around not good on the dealer. They should make some form of good with a complete refund.
The original dealer's arguement will likely be, "I have no idea what that other did that we couldn't do, so you're actions to take the bike to another dealer is your choice and your cost."
Am incorrect to assume that the adjustment at the master cylinder made no difference?
I did not want to play with the grub screw until my mechanic rebuilds the calipers. I figure I've renewed everything else in the brake system, might as well replace the pads and rebuild the calipers and once that is done I'll have the wrench check the lever grub screw tightness. Just got all the parts in today, will drop the bike in the morning and hopefully in a few days I'll have the bike back with essentially a new brake system. On the assumption that once the brakes are in working order that the mileage goes back up I'm still apprehensive whether it goes to spec 45+mpg or only back to the 35mpg it was getting when I purchased it.
...
Roger, in town in 5th gear means you are lugging that engine, rpm of maybe 2300? Sure, it has the torque but it aint no Harley and it's not meant to run at those lugging rpm like a Harley. In fact I bet a WHOLE bunch of Harleys are run at lugging engine speeds. Ask Paul Glaves, he can give a list of reasons why you should NOT lug an Oilhead engine. Biggest reason is to not overstress the lower end which is very dependent on high pressure (well, high pressure for an oil pump) and good oil flow to deliver oil to the plain bearing rod ends. At low engine speeds, but at load (lugging) it is possible for the oil wedge/film in the rod ends to shear through and allow metal to metal contact. ...
Any ideas as to why such low numbers?
Riding style? Hard on the gas?
O2 sensor?
For the record, my R1150 GS Adventure gets 45 MPG (US) running at 70 MPH.