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Why am I getting only 25mpg?

Here's a different thought, should you wish to take charge and work through parameters and functions that remain locked mysteriously within your engine's ecu, there is always the programmable controllers from megasquirt that allow you to dial in or change any level of ignition and fuel injection control for economy, power, or smoother performance as the case may be. (not add on system but controlling entire process stem to stern).
This obviously isn't for everyone, for sure the faint of heart that are not wishing to learn everything that you can about this technology and your particular ride.
Not meant to be a pitch for that product (although affordable enough), but certainly a means to an end. In my case the old air head can do 50-55mpg (Cdn) while venturing into serious turbo boost as the random occasion might present itself. Oilheads are in general much better suited to such a change.
Sorry :nono if this offends the purist approach, but I decided to let the Genie out.:)
Lorne.

Definitely something I would consider once the bike is running normally. Thanks!
 
Megasquirt has an excellent, but technically deep, website. Have a look and see what you think: http://www.megamanual.com/index.html.

As mentioned, not for the faint of heart. If a person chooses to enter the Megasquirt (or Microsquirt as in my case) pathway, there are definitely ways to ignore proper procedures and screw things up. On the other hand, the provision of the forums and information provided there and in the various documents and sites, is second to none and a call for help is answered by many that have been there before. Equally, vast advances and improvements in the product have taken place - one will find evidence of the MS components at drag strips, the salt flats, all walks of life actually. The trade off for learning more is however, a very affordable way to take control of ones fuel injection, forced induction, NOX, water injection, traction control, valve timing, even auto transmission ecu replacement. Obviously I'm a dedicated and committed fan and partaker.
Lorne.:thumb
 
Are the calipers really sticking? When you roll the bike, is there resistance? A little bit of friction when the wheel is off the ground isn't a big deal.

If so, have the pads been changed? Old pads (that have sat for a long time without use) will drag; you have to replace them.
 
The front right caliper came off the fork mount but stayed trapped on the rotor and was dangling.

Even that is disturbing to say the least. Because if you didn't know it and applied the brakes the caliper would grab the disc and rotate with it until the caliper rammed into the fork leg. At least cosmetic damage to the caliper and fork leg would be likely, which would the dealer's cost to replace. All around not good on the dealer. They should make some form of good with a complete refund.
 
Are the calipers really sticking? When you roll the bike, is there resistance? A little bit of friction when the wheel is off the ground isn't a big deal.

If so, have the pads been changed? Old pads (that have sat for a long time without use) will drag; you have to replace them.

Front brakes are definitely sticking, they weren't before I brought the bike to BMW. After they had me change the master cylinder and all break lines the problem started. I think when they replaced the lines and MC they flushed crap into the caliper piston wells blocking them from draining. Just ordered rebuild kits and new pads...I'll update once they are installed.
 
Even that is disturbing to say the least. Because if you didn't know it and applied the brakes the caliper would grab the disc and rotate with it until the caliper rammed into the fork leg. At least cosmetic damage to the caliper and fork leg would be likely, which would the dealer's cost to replace. All around not good on the dealer. They should make some form of good with a complete refund.

They refunded the cost of installing the brake lines...$230. I'm waiting till a new mechanic I found rebuilds the calipers and install the new pads...if the rebuild fixes the sticking calipers then I plan to contact the owners of the dealership and demand additional refunds or legal action. Will know in about a week.
 
Just be aware I doubt any dealer will refund any previous cost based on work done by another shop. By that I mean, let's say you find another shop to do the brake work, and their work corrects the issue. You're much better off and all is good, but don't be surprised that the original dealer refuses to reimburse you for your earlier costs on the brake work. The original dealer might do it by first agreeing to that arrangement, or the original dealer agrees to do whatever is needed to correct the work before submitting it to another dealer.

The original dealer's arguement will likely be, "I have no idea what that other did that we couldn't do, so you're actions to take the bike to another dealer is your choice and your cost."

Just saying, best of luck to a final solution and a properly set up bike.
 
The original dealer's arguement will likely be, "I have no idea what that other did that we couldn't do, so you're actions to take the bike to another dealer is your choice and your cost."

You are probably right but I'm not going to ask for the cost of the caliper rebuild to be refunded, if you followed this thread from the beginning you will have read that the first time they touched this bike it was getting better than 35mpg and they charged me almost a grand to go over the bike from head to toe and repair, adjust, tune replace anything and everything that can be. In short I got the bike back in less working order than when they first got and then they got two more tries to fix it, charged me more money and in the end the net results was me almost getting killed when the front right caliper fell off on the way back from picking up the bike from them. I'm willing to take my chances in small claims court.
 
Am incorrect to assume that the adjustment at the master cylinder made no difference?




I did not want to play with the grub screw until my mechanic rebuilds the calipers. I figure I've renewed everything else in the brake system, might as well replace the pads and rebuild the calipers and once that is done I'll have the wrench check the lever grub screw tightness. Just got all the parts in today, will drop the bike in the morning and hopefully in a few days I'll have the bike back with essentially a new brake system. On the assumption that once the brakes are in working order that the mileage goes back up I'm still apprehensive whether it goes to spec 45+mpg or only back to the 35mpg it was getting when I purchased it.
 
I did not want to play with the grub screw until my mechanic rebuilds the calipers. I figure I've renewed everything else in the brake system, might as well replace the pads and rebuild the calipers and once that is done I'll have the wrench check the lever grub screw tightness. Just got all the parts in today, will drop the bike in the morning and hopefully in a few days I'll have the bike back with essentially a new brake system. On the assumption that once the brakes are in working order that the mileage goes back up I'm still apprehensive whether it goes to spec 45+mpg or only back to the 35mpg it was getting when I purchased it.

If you can stand it, it will get about 50 MPG down around 55 MPH.
There's not a whole bunch of roll-on torque there but you weren't in a hurry anyway.
I sure hope you get to the bottom of this.
 
Andy - Lets drift slightly off topic while we wait on the caliper rebuild.

If I remember correctly, you advocate staying above 3500 RPM. You also mention getting 40+ MPG. So the questions are:

Do you always stay at 3500 or above, such as cruising in 2nd gear in a 35MPH zone?

You mention having a top case; do you have side cases installed as well? I know I get better fuel economy without them, but I'm not sure how much better. I don't have a top case.

With mixed suburban and rural driving and a 20 - 30 minute commute (no more than 5 miles between stop signs, normally less), I usually get 33 - 35 MPG. Speeds range from 20 MPH school zones (or stopped in traffic for a few minutes) to 15 over in a 55 zone with fun turns. I normally stick around 4000 RPM, 2nd gear 20 through 40 MPH, third gear 45 - 60, 4th gear above 60 and rarely ever use 5th because I'm not usually on the highway or above 70. It seems to run well, although I haven't played with balancing, TPS, injector cleaning...

How closely does your riding match mine? Might I really have a 20% economy improvemement waiting for me to find it?
 
Just curious, why such high RPMs? By 35/40 for easy around town riding I'm in 5th. Not much HP required, about 4HP which is only about 8lb-ft torque in 5th on the 1150 plus about 10lb-ft to keep the engine turning over (pumping losses, etc.) total under 20 lb-ft. Plenty in reserve for accel. We've got engines that make almost 70lb-ft top and 50 at 2500 rpm.
 
It feels happy there especially in 3rd & 4th. 2nd feels a bit busy but if I go to third I find myself fighting to stay under 40 mph.
 
Most of my riding is with side bags and top box, plus I have a Cee Bailey oversize windshield and GSXR fairng mounted mirrors. I just track overall average mileage, not city mileage. But I'd expect to be in the mid-30s in town. On the highway, 60 to 75mph, I'm in 5th gear of the 5 I have. In town, speeds up to 40mph I'm in 3rd (NEVER in 5th, rarely ever in 4th). Indicated 65mph on the highway in 5th = 3750 rpm. Indicated 75 in 5th = 4250. Both are good steady state speeds for my RS. Oilhead engines run very well at 3500 to 5000 all day and in fact run better at those speeds.

I like to be in a power band for quick response when I need it, so in town I'm mostly in 3rd. I do note that at times in town, 3rd gear, the engine may be just under 3,000 rpm. But 4th or 5th gear in town is WAY too high a gear IMHO.

Roger, in town in 5th gear means you are lugging that engine, rpm of maybe 2300? Sure, it has the torque but it aint no Harley and it's not meant to run at those lugging rpm like a Harley. In fact I bet a WHOLE bunch of Harleys are run at lugging engine speeds. Ask Paul Glaves, he can give a list of reasons why you should NOT lug an Oilhead engine. Biggest reason is to not overstress the lower end which is very dependent on high pressure (well, high pressure for an oil pump) and good oil flow to deliver oil to the plain bearing rod ends. At low engine speeds, but at load (lugging) it is possible for the oil wedge/film in the rod ends to shear through and allow metal to metal contact.

I keep referring to the miles on my bike, 172K and counting, not to brag, but to emphasize that riding techniques common to what the Oilhead engine was designed for, I believe, have a lot to do with it's longevity. Since I have not had to do any internal engine work on my 94RS, I stay on this path. A rider in my club has 225,000 on one of his R-Oilheads and now over 150,000 on his RT1150 Oilhead, and he rides similar to what I describe above.
 
...

Roger, in town in 5th gear means you are lugging that engine, rpm of maybe 2300? Sure, it has the torque but it aint no Harley and it's not meant to run at those lugging rpm like a Harley. In fact I bet a WHOLE bunch of Harleys are run at lugging engine speeds. Ask Paul Glaves, he can give a list of reasons why you should NOT lug an Oilhead engine. Biggest reason is to not overstress the lower end which is very dependent on high pressure (well, high pressure for an oil pump) and good oil flow to deliver oil to the plain bearing rod ends. At low engine speeds, but at load (lugging) it is possible for the oil wedge/film in the rod ends to shear through and allow metal to metal contact. ...

Andy, Good discussion. A bit of apples to oranges (I've got a 6 speed transmission) but running at 35-40 mph just is not lugging my engine. It is truly lazing along, happy as a clam. I would not have said the same before richening the mixture, it is happier now. Here are the numbers:

5th gear 35 mph 2300 rpm about 3 HP, 6 ft-lb torque
5th gear 40 mph 2600 rpm about 4 HP, 8 ft-lb torque

These numbers just are not lugging a 70 ft-lb torque engine. The problem is when lean, at 14.7:1, in the above range things don't feel so good, but with 4-6% more fuel, as I said earlier, the engine feels lazy and happy, no complaints at all, even with a wallop of throttle.

If I'm in 6th gear, all the above hold true as long as the rpms are above 2600/2700. I'm sure you know what lugging feels like and so do I. Been around engines forever. With a bit more fuel, the boxer is a very happy engine right down to 2000 rpm in gears 1-4, above 2200 rpm in 5th and above 2600 rpm in 6th. Roger
 
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