"No-kill" kill switch and no headlight on R65
I have two electrical gremlins on my '83 r65 which may or may not be related.
1) Kill-Switch: The only thing the kill switch will kill is any bug it hits at 50+mph. I disconnected the battery ground, took the right side starter/kill switch off, cleaned it with electronic contact spray, unplugged it from the wirng harness under the tank and cleaned those connectors as well. No change. How do I test the circuit? The Clymer manual is silent on this. Note: The starter button still functions perfectly.
2) Headlight: My neutral indicator light went out, so I disconnected the battery ground and took the tach assembly off to replace the bulb. I found that the bulb was good, but its socket was corroded. I cleaned it up and remounted the tach and now, the neutral indicator works beautifully, but the headlight does not. All lights on the bike work except the headlight and the high beam indicator. Again, the Clymer manual does not specifically address this issue. I did clean the connectors from the left hand switch, but still no headlight. Note: The horn and turn signals on the left switch assembly work perfectly.
I've owned a lot of other bikes, but this is my first beemer, so any and all ideas and enlightenment you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
Electrical problems seem to be the norm on beemers or any other German vehicle (VW's, Audi's, etc)!
However, I would also have you check the key ignition switch. Also has connections that affect those areas that you mentioned.
Do you have a current electrical wiring diagram? Many, if not all are available in .PDF format and mine has been real useful to me - more accurate than the one(s) in the Clymer manuals.
Also, I always use dielectric (sp?) grease on all of my connections/bulbs to help from them gathering even more corrosion.
Did you hook up a circuit tester on the kill switch when you had the handlebar control off? Worth checking.
Also I am not sure about yours, but my R100/7 was wired with the headlight on all the time. The wiring diagram had a wire going to the headlight relay that was labeled on the diagram as "USA Only" which indicated that it was added in the US market back when it was the rage for the fruitcake politicians to try to make it a requirement to have the lights on all the time. If this wire, or connection to the key switch, or the connection to the relay, etc. is disconnected or corroded then that could also be the problem.
Also check relay. I know most people just go purchase new ones. I find that if you are careful, you can bend tabs and take off the cover, clean out all debris, clean, and treat with dielectric grease and re-assemble (you may have to use cable ties, but only you will know) and the relay works as good as new (well, almost). I've been called cheap, "tighter than a gnat's hide stretched over a rainbarrel."
But $35.00 relays aren't my idea of a way I would like to spend money!
A multi meter is in your future. ....sorry, didn't mean to laugh. Check for continuity at the switches and connections. Could be broken wires or bad connections; use a diagram to know what to expect, but mainly you have to use you detective skills to isolate the faults. Good luck.
I do have a good multi-meter; I'm going to have to put it to work. I've ordered a good wiring diagram that is specific to the '83.
JimmyLee, you may have the answer - corrosion in the relay(s). The original problem with the neutral light was a corroded socket. I'll open the relays, clean and close them up, and see what happens. If they work, I save $35. If not, I know how to take apart a relay.
I'll update as soon as I get more work done.
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