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Thread: R1200RT Clymer?

  1. #1
    Kein Nasebohrer RBEmerson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    SE PA

    R1200RT Clymer?

    A friend with an '07 R1200RT mentioned want to do some work on his bike, but wasn't sure about which way to go. "Don't you have a Clymer book this rascal?" And then I found that I couldn't find one. Uh, is there one or is the Haynes book any good?
    Some people are wise. Some people are otherwise.

  2. #2
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    south of Los Angeles
    I've never looked at the 1200 manuals, but in my past experience (17 bikes total and 9 were BMWs including my present one) - both brands were at least "reasonable", but the Haynes always seemed to have more relevant details and better pictures. A few times, I've seen the Haynes even tell you what NOT to do. However, they do not get corrections & updates, so searching forums like this one is always additionally recommended!

  3. #3
    I had the Haynes for my older Hexhead GS (and the '07 RT is a Hexhead, not a wethead... perhaps a mod will move this thread). I found it better than nothing, but no where near the BMW RepROM which is the maintenance DVD you can purchase from your dealer. When I bought mine it was about $110. It requires a machine running Windows, but you can easily look up procedures and print them off for working with greasy hands in your garage.

    I'm waiting for the wethead equivalent to become available.

  4. #4
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Albuquerque, NM
    Wrong forum!
    Kent Christensen
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S

  5. #5
    Cannonball Rider #52 darrylri's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Surf City, USA (Santa Cruz, CA)
    Thanks for reporting it, Kent. I've moved this to the Hexheads forum.
    --Darryl Richman, forum liaison

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Castro Valley Ca.

    RE: Haynes

    Have it, use it, no complaints. I also keep other references on hand such as a JVB cd with the routine procedures as a second reference. Haynes does have the electrical prints which I don't believe the BMW cd has.

  7. #7
    God? What god? roborider's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Raleigh, NC
    Haynes is OK for basics. They won't help you at all with a final drive or ABS units (especially whizzy ABS). Between the Haynes, Jim Von Baden's maintenance disc (excellent), the factory manual, and this forum I find what I need. Look for the BMW manual on Ebay. I paid $5 or $10 for a 2005-6 disc.
    Rob C. , Raleigh, NC
    '10 R12RT, R90/6
    2007 CBR600RR & 09 V-Star
    Suzuki DR 350

  8. #8
    Insatiable Cruiser rtwiz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Chicago Suburbs
    Quote Originally Posted by drgnhtr View Post
    Have it, use it, no complaints. I also keep other references on hand such as a JVB cd with the routine procedures as a second reference. Haynes does have the electrical prints which I don't believe the BMW cd has.
    Agree! +1 ! It's really good to have more than one manual for repair and maintenance projects.

    I'm VERY happy with the JBV Hex Head and Oil Head CDs. They're the best, but they use a GS for the work so you don't see how to deal with RT fairing pieces etc.

    When you need to take apart an RT, I really like the BMW Maintenance CD. It doesn't say much, but it gives you photos and the steps in order and shows you where to release the catches on the electrical plugs, and where the screws are you need to remove. Those two are really all I've needed so far. I've not seen either a Clymer or Haynes out on the Hex Heads. I have the Oil Head Haynes. It's not too bad.

    If something is really challenging or seems "over my head", I'll collect all the info I can on it, then read through all the versions of how to fix before I start. That way I know what I'm getting into. Sometimes, one written description of a thing won't do it for me. I read another description after the first and the light comes on in my head. Sometimes, I'll read that i'm getting into something I really don't want to get into. Then it's time to take it to a real mechanic.

    So far, that's only happened on my RT with things I don't LIKE to do, like bleeding servo brakes. It's not THAT hard. I even bought the "martini glass" for doing it, but doing it wrong can get expensive. I let the dealer do it. Maybe some day I'll need the tank off for something else and will get to trying it myself. For now, it's a few bucks and it's done.

    Most of this stuff is just easier to do than to make appointments, get the wife to pick me up, miss work, etc etc. Just easier to do yourself and MUCH cheaper. The warranty, for the most part, isn't worth much.

    I may or may not replace the alternator belt. It's got to be done right or it won't last. They theoretically should last forever anyway. I have 78K on my original and it's fine.

    I do replace the "lifetime lubricant" in my final drive every 20K. I do the trans oil and the engine oil and the air filter and have pulled the nose to replace the lower windscreen carriage. I will go through that again soon to put on aftermarket lower arms. I've put upper arms on before. Had the instrument panel out to install a Gadget Guys GPS bracket. Installed a hidden V-1 in my left front pod next to headlight and put a remote indicator on the lower part of the dash for it. Wired that and the GPS to the accessory plug leads under the left side pod. Installed Wilbers shocks front and rear. The rear is the remote adjustable type so you have to mount the remote in some convenient place. Did that. Had them rebuilt by Beemer Werks in CA and they are better than new and set up perfectly. Those guys rock. I take off my wheels, clean them and give them to a non-BMW dealer for tire installs. Saves the nearby dealer a bunch of trouble and I can drop them off and pick them up without the need for a ride home. If you have a floor jack, you can take both wheels off at once. Strap the center stand in the "up" position and use the floor jack to hold up the front of the bike at the engine. I pull the rear tire first, then the front.

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