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No Clutch Freeplay on K75

The suspense of waiting for a solution is killing me. I have read and reread your post. I cannot confirm whether the projection of the throwout bearing beyond the rear of the transmission is correct or the problem, but try adjusting the levers and cable by this procedure.

1. Set the lower clutch cable exposed spec (75mm) on lever #7 in the parts diagram with the knurled adjuster at the hand lever.

Make sure the lower end of the clutch cable outer sheathing metal end is properly seated in the correct position. The bolt on #7 lever with the 10mm head (#10), at the rear of the throw out bearing, should be loosened so as to not to be making contact with the throw out bearing. Clutch is fully engaged.

2. Screw bolt #10 in by hand until it just touches the throw out bearing and hold with a 10mm box end wrench while securing the 13mm lock nut.

Back the 13mm locknut back far enough back before screwing #10 in by hand so that your are sure that it is the bolt that is making contact with the throwout bearing. So far the clutch is fully engaged and there is no slack between the handlebar hand lever and the forward end of the clutch rod at the pressure plate.

3. Set the cable freeplay at the handlebar lever to spec. (4mm?)

Screw the knurled adjuster IN so that there is Freeplay in the cable before it disengages the clutch assembly. It is measured at the first place that opens when you pull the lever. You can almost do this by feel and not sight. This slack ensures that the whole clutch assembly is fully engaged and not preloaded or partially disengaged when the lever is out.
Don't forget to set the knurled locknut on the cable adjuster.

Hope this helped. Whatever the solution turns out to be, please let us know.
Charlie
 
... Set the lower clutch cable exposed spec (75mm) on lever #7 ...

Charlie - If I do that, the push rod is depressed enough to disconnect the drive shaft from the transmission entirely. Even with the #10 screw removed and the hand lever screw all the way in, the #7 lever is touching the #3 throw-out bearing.

At this point I need to assume that my friction disc and clutch pressure plates are worn enough that replacing them is the only solution.

Since at this point the wear only inhibits free play and not clutch engagement, I can probably get by another 10k miles as-is, but then I'll need a new clutch pack.
 
Went for a ride today and the clutch is on the absolute edge of slipping.

Looks like a new clutch pack (friction disk, two pressure plates, spring, bolts and washers) will run about $300 at MotoBins. Seems like a good deal.

Is there anywhere in the states to buy this stuff besides the dealer?
 
This is a WAG but what about the little piece of felt that is inside the clutch lever housing/cable that keeps crud out of the cable? Is it possible it is jammed up inside the housing and is preventing the cable from seating properly at the clutch lever? They are about 10 cm long. Again, just a WAG.
 
Looks like a new clutch pack (friction disk, two pressure plates, spring, bolts and washers) will run about $300 at MotoBins. Seems like a good deal.

Is that including shipping? Last time I talked to them, they said it would be $70 shipping for just a clutch disk.


:dance:dance:dance
 
Very good suggestion from Mike in a previous response. I'm inclined to think the problem is with the cable also. It only has two ends and there is something wrong on one end or the other or both. The lower end of the cable has to be in the REAR recess of the transmission bracket and not half way back from the hole that you thread the cable through. I say this from experience.
Some one out there will say the magic word(s) that will solve your predicament. After all, there are thousands of K75/100's out there that are working properly right now. You'll get it. Keep at it. Charlie
 
All the cable measurements suggested by Lee match my cable. The cable is installed properly.

If someone has a photo of their throw-out bearing installed without the rubber cup we could see if mine is protruding more than it should.

With the throw-out bearing removed I can grab the pushrod with pliers and slide it easily fore and aft only about 1/8". I suspect that with a fresh clutch pack that movement would increase to 1/2".

Looks like the Motobins site does not auto-calculate shipping. I'll call them tomorrow.
 
Whoopee. Received the package from MotoBins this morning. It was mailed from the UK just two days ago. That was fast.
 
Out of curiosity, could you give us a break down on the cost per part and the shipping charges on your order? I've thought about ordering several things from them that seem really well priced, but with the added shipping costs it has seemed almost as much as buying on this side of the pond.


:dance:dance:dance
 
Cool! So about $300 total as opposed to about $425 if bought from a dealer with no tax. DEFINITELY a good deal!:thumb


:dance:dance:dance
 
Installed the new clutch parts.

Problem Solved :)

Plenty of room on the clutch cable now to adjust as necessary.

I measured the old and new parts and the only real difference was on the friction disk. Old was 4.9mm. New is 5.6mm. I compared the two clutch springs on a flat table and they were exactly the same height. The old friction surfaces were very smooth.
 

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No Clutch Freeplay on K75

Tim, I'm not real clear (nothing new here) as to why the new parts moved the clutch rod and throwout bearing forward from Post #7 and Post #15 to the obviously more recessed throwout bearing in Post #34 and allowing correct lever and cable adjustment. May happen to me one day and I won't waste time scratching a hole in my head when I could be out riding. Charlie
 
The new thicker clutch disk pushes the pressure plate a slight bit forward. This pushes the center of the spring that is engaged by the clutch rod even further forward in the clutch engaged position.

Thus there was room to provide free-play at the cable.
 
Tim,

Thanks for following up with the "solution" - it will help someone in the future for sure.. That was a surprising amount of wear on the disk.. most disks I've measured are just about at the spec'd max thickness (perhaps a tiny bit of wear) even with lots of miles on the bikes. I've heard of one or two wearing out, but it's really quite rare. Apparently the clutch lining area is about equal to that on a VW bug engine, where you're moving 1,800lbs around.. (with less HP than the K75..)

Thanks again!
 
FYI - Here are the old parts on the way to the garbage bin. (Spring replaced too but not pictured.)
 

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I think I see your problem!

That is not a BMW K75 clutch disc.

No wonder we couldn't figure it out. Nobody was considering that it had the WRONG disc in it!




:dance:dance:dance
 
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