So I replaced the oil pressure sensor when the oil light came on. It fixed it for a while, but came back on in the rain. It seems to be everytime I ride a long way in hard rain it comes on. I am about to go on a hunt for bare wires, corroded connectors and other electrical issues. Any suggestions for diagnoses? Something is getting wet...
-
Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password. If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?
-
Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.
The Election forum is here: Election Forum
R1100RT Oil pressure light comes on in the rain / after washing the bike
- Thread starter kz1000ken
- Start date
pglaves
#13338
Yes. That is a single wire circuit. Simplified: power source, bulb, pressure switch, ground at the switch threads in the block. When there is insufficient oil pressure a spring holds the switch closed; there is a path to ground so the light illuminates. With sufficient oil pressure the switch is held open; no path to ground; no light.
So moisture is providing a path to ground somewhere between the bulb and the block. It is most likely right at the connection if there is a rubber cap around the sending unit. This used to happen a lot to classic K bikes.
If not there, then maybe the insulation is nicked where the wire is in the metal clip at the side of the engine/transmission.
So moisture is providing a path to ground somewhere between the bulb and the block. It is most likely right at the connection if there is a rubber cap around the sending unit. This used to happen a lot to classic K bikes.
If not there, then maybe the insulation is nicked where the wire is in the metal clip at the side of the engine/transmission.
Here is the new sensor replaced. There is the bare clip end on a keyed nub. 24mm bolt type, rubber crown but the contact is bare.
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
The other end of that wire goes straight up to the indicator bulb. Check that socket for moisture & debris.
Some 1100s had their wiring harness tie-wraps cinched down too tightly - look for damaged insulation which could cause an intermittent short. Some of the harness anchors use metal bands; examine those extra closely.
Some 1100s had their wiring harness tie-wraps cinched down too tightly - look for damaged insulation which could cause an intermittent short. Some of the harness anchors use metal bands; examine those extra closely.
This happened to me after washing the bike last week and not riding it afterwards. Next time I started the bike, the OP light went out and then came back on at about half intensity 30 seconds later. My eyes bugged out and I immediately shut off the bike. Got off and started the bike again while watching the oil window. Oil level immediately dropped so I knew the oil pump was working. Engine wasn't making any nasty sounds. And the OP light was out, too. Then I remembered I had the same issue with a Ducati about 20 years ago (I know, you're surprised). So, I believe Mr. Glaves has nailed it, as usual. We'll see if it occurs again at which point I might dig into it further.
So Im going to pull the plastic, follow the wire from the sensor to the bulb, and if I see a break, Im going to make a new wire.
Thanks for the tips guys, you're always a big help!
-Ken
Electrical diagnosis starting point?
So I thought I had it worked out, but yesterday after some rain the oil TEMPERATURE read to the top on the RID (all bars) and the bike would not start.
1. Is there an ignition kill / automatic shutoff if the Oil Temp Sensor gets too hot?
2. Where is water the most likely to be getting to the harness / connectors. I'm going to start taking the thing apart and looking for corroded / wet connectors and wire damage.
After several hours it started normally. Its definately getting wet. The humidity has been so bad things are rusting in the garage, so it could be condensation too.
So I thought I had it worked out, but yesterday after some rain the oil TEMPERATURE read to the top on the RID (all bars) and the bike would not start.
1. Is there an ignition kill / automatic shutoff if the Oil Temp Sensor gets too hot?
2. Where is water the most likely to be getting to the harness / connectors. I'm going to start taking the thing apart and looking for corroded / wet connectors and wire damage.
After several hours it started normally. Its definately getting wet. The humidity has been so bad things are rusting in the garage, so it could be condensation too.
I know this is probably the wrong thing to do, opening up a forum thread after so many years, but I have to share my experience yesterday with my 2004 R1150R. I had an annoying intermittent oil light, couldn’t ride it as I had no way of proving the true pressure on hand at the time. Ordered a new oil pressure sensor and fitted it… all worked well until the first time I went out for a ride and I got the oil light again. Anyway after an extensive investigation I found that the wire from the oil pressure sensor had been in contact with something very hot but I couldn’t believe it could’ve touched the exhaust as it was too far away. I found that the insulation had been melted away by the oil pipe that runs diagonally near the pressure sensor. Re-insulated with tape and then put on further protection and tied back the wire so it could not contact the oil pipe. Problem solved. I guess at the factory they resolved that kind of thing with electrical ties which is on reflection not the best design.
By the way, huge shout out for EuroMotoElectrics in Denver. I ordered the oil pressure sensor at 4 PM one day along with other items such as oil filters washers etc. It arrived at my front door in Collingwood, Ontario, Canada by 2:15 PM 22 hours later. I tried to buy locally but it would’ve been more expensive.
I have to ask....how much more expensive?
Won't start after rain
My 1999 R1100 Died after riding through a bad rainstorm on my way from the rally. We hauled it from Wisconsin to Massachusetts and put it in the shop. When they tried it it started fine but it has rough idle and some hesitation. I think it is a wiring issue but any help on what connectors to look at would be nice.
My 1999 R1100 Died after riding through a bad rainstorm on my way from the rally. We hauled it from Wisconsin to Massachusetts and put it in the shop. When they tried it it started fine but it has rough idle and some hesitation. I think it is a wiring issue but any help on what connectors to look at would be nice.
Hall Effect Sensor
Kind of clever on how the operation was discovered of the HES. Hall Effect Sensor
In use today in almost facet of mobility.
OM
Interesting read...even if I only understood half of it !
Further- Honeywell took the concept to about perfection….
https://sps.honeywell.com/us/en/pro...nd-position-sensors/magnetic-position-sensors
From the embedded wire loops in roads that trigger a traffic light change, to the crank sensor in your car, to the HES with the “crispy” wires in BMW bikes…….the fields are collapsing all around us
OM
Similar threads
