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Thread: Yet Another TB Sync Note

  1. #16
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Northern Front Range, CO
    I can make sense of using a low idle as a diagnostic tool (if one knows what to look & listen for and knows what it means), but I can't imagine operating the bike at such a low settting as SOP.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  2. #17
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Winnipeg, MB, Canada
    I guess my posts have been a bit confusing. The very low idle is my starting point to sync carbs/throttle bodies. If I can get my gauges equal and steady, I'm pretty comfortable that the rest will be a breeze. I think of it as setting idle mixture and then move on to curb idle. If curb idle remains equal and steady on the gauges, I'm pretty comfortable that setting the mid-throttle sync will be even easier. What most of you have been talking about is the curb idle and in my opinion, if you sync at curb idle, you can miss some very important clues as to the overall condition of your engine.

    My 96, R1100RT has a custom feramic, four pad clutch plate for incredible hook up and the OE "recommended" setting of 1100-1200 rpm curb idle will cause the bike to launch so I have it sitting, curb idle, at 850. I've also noticed the OE idle setting will cause the engine to build heat very fast in stop and go traffic and that concerns me.

    I hope that clears some confusion.
    1997 R1100RT (Restored Basket Case) , 1981 KZ 440 LTD (Restored Basket Case, my baby, fast, fun)
    3xR90/6, two just sold, one for a sidecar. 1983 K100RS (Cafe now)
    Very Rough R80RT. 1987 K1100RS (freaking hooped I think)

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