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Possible emergency, or am I being a wuss?

Stumbling

James.A said:
If it gets to the point of annoying or slowing up the trip then you owe it to yourself to check out a few of the issues raised by our fellow airheads. In my Iowa instance, I was able to get home with only an occasional stumble. I found that the rubbing block where the points ride against the cam had worn enough to knock about .004 of gap out of the equation. This with about 1000 to 1500 miles since the last tune-up.

The clutch started slipping as well, but that's a whole other story.

On the fuel delivery side, if you typically ride with one petcock open, try using both. This assumes that the fuel crossover is plumbed in.
Click to expand...

This happened to my 83 R100RT. I was advised to pull the tank and unplug,clean a plug back every electrical conection I could and spray contact cleaner in the ones not unpluged. This was 4/5 years ago and no problms sence.
 
Opened the tank. Found lots of red dust and chunks of tank liner. Cleaning that out as best I can.

Pulled a plug. Red/brown caked on stuff. Possibly fused rust? Replacing. Coil crossover is clean and tight.
 
ok, just got back from test run.

1.cleaned tank/filters as best I can. Apparently ethanol gas is eating the previous liner. So, a replacment is forthcoming.

2. new plugs.

3. cleaned out carbs with carb spray.

Results.

Still missing, but less freqency, and less severity/duration.

I suspect my problem is electrical. Anyone know where I can get points/condenser for a 1977 r75/7 in Austin, Texas?
 
The only thing I found.

Lone Star BMW
10600 North Lamar Blvd
Austin, TX 78753
512-451-7979
800-729-3807

Next closest is

ALAMO BMW
25600 IH-10 W
SAN ANTONIO, TX 7800
(210) 828-5511

Boxer By Bruce is up in Pantego (Dallas/Fort Worth)
Bruce Davidson
(817) 265-8065
3620-4 Graves Blvd.
Pantego, TX 76013

edit -

No substitute ignition parts show up in the MOA Resources & Links page.

My /5 had similar symptoms when one of the OEM BERU (metal type) spark plug caps failed due to trapped moisture causing the internals to corrode. I replaced them with NGK LB05FP caps. They were like $4 at a local bike shop. Instant fix.

0000-NGK-LB05FP---Spark-Plug-Resistor-Cover---.jpg
 
those are, IIRC, 5k ohm resistor caps, correct? I thought they were supposed to be 1k ohm. I'm running 1k ohm vw beetle caps. 1.99 ea.
 
I was under the impression that points based pre 1979 ignitions required a 1k ohm resistor cap.

It's what's specified in the book( clymer manual), and it's what came off the bike origionally.

It's also recommended by 'Snowbum'.

link - http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/sparkplugs.htm

details about half way down.

the points and condenser were replaced about 1000 miles ago. I -think- that the problem might be that the coils have never been replaced, and may simply have reached that point in thier life where it's time to replace. but first step will be checking the gap.

dammit, I wish I was home, where my tools are.
 
got ahold of Lone Star... they think they have one in stock, and they're looking for it. He claims he'll have it tomorrow.

The coils I can use VW coils for. The condensor I can probably fake as well...

but the points are a sticky.
 
coils, maybe. The coils on my '73 LWB /5 are original...

The article I linked > See > http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/PlugCapsnCoils.htm

Seems to hold that while there is a difference in performance between the 1Ω and 5Ω cap, either will work in "normal" duty. Tomayto, Tamahto...

Have you determined if this is happening to BOTH cylinders, simultaneously.
 
just looked at the points. They're pitted but functional. I guess the year in storage boogered them, as well.

and honestly, I can't tell which one is missing, it feels like both.

Still, a fresh points/condenser should help.
 
Certainly can't hurt. Hopefully they'll be "Noris" points and not cheesy Chinese copies. Not that I have anything against Chinese; I love Kung Poa chicken...

It's not recommended that the points be dressed, but in a pinch. If you resort to it, just make sure you get them well degreased.

And if you get new points, pass a clean business card or other paper between the contacts to "polish" them before you install them.

And if push comes to shove, San Antonio's only like 80 miles right from Austin... .. . :bolt
 
it does make me wonder what caused them to fail so abruptly. 1000 miles on a set of honest-to-god BMW points is pretty lame.
 
crummy points...

Roguetek said:
it does make me wonder what caused them to fail so abruptly. 1000 miles on a set of honest-to-god BMW points is pretty lame.
Click to expand...

I have had a run of bad points. One set lasted just 500 miles and begin to back fire, the rubbing block wore down far enough that you could not adjust them into spec. That was on my 77 R100, she now has Dyna III electronic ignition, so far so good, I think about 10,000 miles. Then the other day I finally finished putting together a 1976 R75, she is real pretty(!) and took her for a test ride. The points had about 375 miles on them from a previous ride and I made it about 75 miles and began to get popping and a few hesitations. Same thing, rubbing block wore. I now have 3 sets of old old brand new points and will try one of them, I got them in the fairing of a slash 5 I recently purchased, the guy liked to have his 3 sets of extra points handy I guess. WHen you mentioned the hesitations that was the first thing I thought of, dang points! When they are good they seem to last for many many miles. I have not given up on them.
Regards,
Kurt
 
There are some alternative parts to be found in this thread from ADV. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207573
I have replaced the turn signal relay with one from NAPA. As for points or coils, there may be something in here that can get you home but we all take our chances. If you'll be in Austin for another day or so I would suggest giving Bruce Davidson, Boxers By Bruce, a call at 817.265.8065. He could express mail the part(s) you need the next day.
 
Paul G had an article about the Chinese points in the ON a few months ago (and maybe reposted here somewhere?). They look a whole lot like the real BMW part, even the little box is pretty close, but they are crap (politically-correct understated euphemism here).

Addendum to my earlier post about checking where the wire comes out of the cavity -
ALSO make sure the wire isn't pinched under the flat spring arm; the sharp edge will cut right thru the insulation.
 
Pauls1150 said:
Paul G had an article about the Chinese points in the ON a few months ago (and maybe reposted here somewhere?). They look a whole lot like the real BMW part, even the little box is pretty close, but they are crap (politically-correct understated euphemism here).
Click to expand...

It was Matt...September 2010. The issue with those was that the rubbing block was so tall, that the bike couldn't even be timed at all. If roguetek had it timed at one point, seems like this is not an issue associated with non-standard points.
 
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