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List of R75/5 threaded hardware?

Zinc is fine - if you don't want stainless

Why not use anti-seize on everything? What is so hard about that that you can't do everything? Zinc, steel, stainless into aluminum or anything the anti-seize will stop all of the problems. You can use anything as long as it is of the strength that will allow proper torquing. The only problem you need to watch for is that most hardware stuff is basic grade 2 - just over the strength of butter and can twist off easily. On simple stuff, like screwing on your turn signal lenses this is plenty good, but not good enough as a bolt to mount engine in frame. Use either grade 5 or grade 8 equivalent - I forget how metric system designates this, but they do.
 
1. Take all of your original hardware and degrease it. Do not use a wire brush.
2. In small batches in a small plastic container spray the hardware with Eagle One mag wheel cleaner for chrome wheels. Let it sit for 3-5 minutes and agitate the hardware with an old tooth brush. You can repeat this twice if needed. Rinse really well with cold water and towel dry.

You will find that a lot of your original hardware will look close to new again. Don't forget to do the upper triple clamp and sidestand.

If you are not happy with some or all of it this zinc plating kit will give you a very close look http://www.eastwood.com/ew-electroplating-system-tin-zinc.html. I use this kit all the time and it works very well.
 
That plating kit looks interesting. I may just try that on some old fasteners but thinking I'll do it w/o buying the kit. My buddy that taught electricity used to do that/plating in his class as a demo when doing basic electrical theory stuff.
The Eagle One as a cleaner if you google the contents it is a combo of 3 acids so would seem to me to be cheaper to use a detergent degreaser AND;) a SS brush(HF has a nice asst of brushes on sale now-you get 6 for $1.49) , then one of the acids like commonly available to use to clean MC gas tanks or the non-acid cleaner sold in box stores-never used it but called Evapo-rust?
Anyone else out there re-plating fasteners in home shop?:ear
 
That plating kit looks interesting. I may just try that on some old fasteners but thinking I'll do it w/o buying the kit. My buddy that taught electricity used to do that/plating in his class as a demo when doing basic electrical theory stuff.
The Eagle One as a cleaner if you google the contents it is a combo of 3 acids so would seem to me to be cheaper to use a detergent degreaser AND;) a SS brush(HF has a nice asst of brushes on sale now-you get 6 for $1.49) , then one of the acids like commonly available to use to clean MC gas tanks or the non-acid cleaner sold in box stores-never used it but called Evapo-rust?
Anyone else out there re-plating fasteners in home shop?:ear

If you use anything other than a soft plastic bristle brush you will remove the plating. The Eagle One works great and for the price and how much you use it's worth it. I also use it on the engine aluminum and wheel hubs. Making your own plating is easy. The nice thing about the Eastwood plating kit is only spending $70 and it is everything you need in one container. So for under $100 you have a way to clean and restore all of your hardware, top clamp, sidestand, axle tips, steering bearing cup, ends of the engine through bolts......... Your bike will look super original.
 
If you use anything other than a soft plastic bristle brush you will remove the plating.

Amen to that. And it isn't just the fasteners. Virtually all of the exposed ferrous metal parts were cadmium plated (rear brake rod, cable adjusters, top triple clamp, misc. clamps, foot pegs, etc.). I made the fatal error of not only using a wire brush, but a using wire wheel.... :banghead.
 
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I hear you on the wheel-I did a restoration on a 1973 Suzuki 2 yrs ago & the kid in TN I bought it from had screwed up the fenders & a few other parts using wire wheel to dolly it up for ebay pics.There's no going back from that type damage other than refinish or throw away. My comment on using a SS brush was r.e. the threads only and a hand brush at that. Also, clearly the amount of pressure(lightly works better than a hard push) & the brush can be suited for the item such as a brass brush. With very light pressure some fasteners refresh very well. If rust has set in I sometimes clean the best way possible-degrease,wire brush for corrosion then paint it silver if made from unobtanium & not sending something out for replate or grab a new "generic but look alike" fastener. My point was not to grind away on the plated finish but all about rust & corrosion.
As for my buddy doing classroom plating , I think they were doing copper which it's easy to find a sacrificial metal part that's pure copper. I'm wondering where do you get a pure zinc piece to avoid the kit costs? :)
 
You may be able to buy zinc anodes at marine supply stores. Don't know how pure they are, but you'd think it would be pretty high. It's doing the same thing it does in electroplating.
 
I have a roll of zinc in the shed which used to control moss on my roof. It can be found at most hardware stores. Probably not pure but might work...
 
Thanks to all for your comments. I'm a long time McMaster-Carr customer and would have no problem ordering from them, but I had hoped to save the time to inventory every fastener. I'm aware of the home plating kits, but the cost plus my time makes it less attractive than the kits. BMWHucky certainly looks like the leader for cost/value, so I think I'll put away what purist pride I have and order stainless from them. This ain't gonna be a 100 point bike, just a very clean rider. Besides, I intend to keep it in motion fast enough that no one can tell the difference!

Thanks again,

Art W.
 
M-Carr

Art,

My suggestion is to kind of "buy as you go" by buying a box of whatever you run into as you work on your bike, then after a while you will get a pretty good collection and will eventually have repeats.

Just keep a listing (like in Excel spreadsheet) of the various bolts, nuts, screws, washers, etc. and you will then have a good "bill of hardware material" listing of what your particular model has.

Then...share it with the rest of us!

Also, using the microfisch that Bob's BMW has which I think lists the bolts and nuts in their bolt/nut nomenclature you can obtain the proper sizes, threads, and lengths.

My only hesitation would be the larger bolts - be sure to buy the better alloy grades. There are, however some of the bolts, that I would never buy - bolts like head bolts, etc. unless you know for sure that they are the same or better grade than original because these bolts require careful torquing and cheaper bolts will not hold up to those torques.

Thanks,
Jim C.
 
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