It's just that a few of us have recently been down this road. Now that you've also done it, I suspect you'll be the first with good advice the next time someone has similar questions. It's all kind of confusing until you get your hands dirty!
K75s, R65LS, R60/5
I wrestled without the alignment tool last night until my back and arms couldn't take it anymore. I've eyed the disk centered but the tranny splines just won't go in. Turned the splines abit and tried again. It's sooo close but just won't go in. Did this at least 7 times. Maybe the disk is sitting just a little low?
Going to go back and work on it again today.
Last winter I had the engine out when aligning the disk with the transmission. Alot easier!
Barrett - FYI - If you don't have the clutch disk exactly aligned, you are probably looking at like ~1000 lbs of force to drag the clutch disk across the flywheel face(s) so that the spline and the engine-transmission pilot diameters will line up. Just be sure that after you get it worried and forced together, that you release the clutch & kinda float things as much as possible while tightening the engine-transmission bolts.
Otherwise the axis of the engine crankshaft and the transmission axis will have an alignment discrepancy that will show as a massive rotating (one per engine revolution) side force on the spline ---- forever!
Be careful. I wish there was a more direct way to get that initial alignment of the clutch spline before the engine-transmission connection is fixed. If you have to, I suppose you could pry radially on the hub of the clutch disk enough to slide it a little ways - but which way? I feel for you.
Retired w 2005 K1200LT, 2000 R1100RT, & 1975 R90/6
The trick is to not lock down the compression ring before getting the disk centered. With a modest amount of pressure, you can bring the tranny up and trial fit. If it doesn't go or you see an offset, it's not too difficult to lightly knock the plate one direction or the other. Then you can full tighten the clutch pack.
As for the alignment of the tranny and engine axes, I don't think that's a big issue...the tranny rides on the two upper studs...she's not going to move anywhere. [Note, Duane Ausherman talks about actually starting the engine and performing the clutch actuation and tightening the tranny down on /2s...but I think there's more slop in the mounting than on the /5-on machines.] But it is a good idea to hook up the clutch arm and cable and actuate the clutch a couple of times before tightening the transmission mounting bolts. That keeps any forces off the input shaft as you tighten the transmission down.
So - got the clutch installed and the alignment tool worked like a dream (not trying to make you feel bad, Barrett)
I used about a can of brake cleaner to get the grime off the transmission cavity and cleaned the outer case.
Used several toothpicks to remove debris from each of the cavities in the spline and mixed together some moly & grease to coat the male splines.
Inserted the clutch rod through the front of the tranny, as suggested, and soaked the felt ring in gear oil. Added moly grease to the tip that presses against the compression plate and cleaned & greased the thrust bearing, piston & sealing ring.
Actuated the clutch several times (it feels really nice) before tightening up the transmission bolts - still not fully tightened yet.
Here's my question: When I put the bike into gear and depress the clutch operating mechanism (cable isn't connected yet) I can't spin the output flange, other than neutral that connects to the swingarm - I haven't re-installed the swing arm yet.
Wondering if I missed something? It's normal to pull in the clutch and be able to roll forward on a motorcycle in gear or hold the clutch in when stopped.
I'm about 100% that the clutch went in right as well as the clutch operating mechanism as I kept the workshop manual by my side.
What do you think?
K75s, R65LS, R60/5
I'd be surprised if you could push the rod enough...I think it's pretty stout. Use the cable and you'll now one way or the other.
Hooked up cable - clutch works as it should - thanks so much!!!
K75s, R65LS, R60/5
Now, check this out for the next step (starting with Kurt's post #3):
One thing, not sure why, but once it is all back together, I think you have to run the motor for a few minutes and exercise the clutch a couple of times before making the final adjustment.
Not sure why, but my experience has been that if I do the adjustment without having run the motor and pulled the clutch in and released it a few times, inevitably, the adjustment isn't right after the first ride.
What have I gotten myself into?
I should've known better after the R65LS restoration. If it weren't for that sexy combo speedo/tach unit and the nail key - that was the draw believe it or not.
Just another labor of love to help stay sane.
So much grease everywhere - beginning to think the bike hadn't been ever cleaned or gone through since leaving the factory in '72. Almost done with my 2nd can of brake cleaner - the stuff works great.
Just took a look underside of cylinders - seeing oil - not a good sign. Bike ran good when I test drove it - probably still does. The PO hadn't ridden her in some time but she started right up. There was a bunch of oil on his garage floor beneath the bike but after I got her home and tightened up the oil pan, the dripping stopped.
I guess more to be revealed as I go down the line - carbs are dirty on outside but it ran so good I'm not going to rebuild right now - thinking about getting a small ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight just to clean them up but if I do that I'll most likely have to disassemble everything.
Will just proceed one small step at a time. She will be nice when it all comes together. Oh these project bikes - love it!
K75s, R65LS, R60/5