-
Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password. If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?
-
Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.
The Election forum is here: Election Forum
R100/7 1978 - Final Drive Rebuilding
- Thread starter DBROWNSEY
- Start date
happy wanderer
Day Dreaming ...
Hi Doug and welcome here as I see you have 8 posts so far. Here's a few suggestions for you.
- For this question it would be best to start a new thread with it's own title since it is way off topic of what is being discussed here which is a top end engine rebuild.
- Suggest that you fill in your user profile a bit more so folks know where you are and this makes it easier to suggest places to get work done or parts etc.
In the absence of geographical location I would suggest you send your final drive to Bruno who is one of many experts on final drive repairs and rebuilds. http://brunos.us/
There are more so once folks know where you are there may be something closer to you.
I took care of that!
lmo1131
New member
Without question ... Ted Porter's Beemershop. Even if you have to ship it, like I did.
Attachments
barron_williams
Monza Blue 1974 R90/6
If you want your rear drive rebuilt, I highly recommend Hansen's in Oregon. Quick turn around and they met production schedule they gave me when I first called to ask about the work. Really beautiful job.
http://www.hansensmc.com/default.asp?page=spline
My most pressing problem was the seal. After 37 years, I was starting to get gear oil on the rear wheel, especially after 100+ mile rides.
But, when I looked everything over, it was clear the splines were about 50% worn. Didn't make much sense to have the seal replaced and not fix the splines. But, new splines also means a new dog on the wheel.
So, some money involved in this decision.
There are a couple of alternatives to rebuilding, as outlined above.
But, if rebuild is the right choice for you, you will be happy with Hansen's.
Barron
http://www.hansensmc.com/default.asp?page=spline
My most pressing problem was the seal. After 37 years, I was starting to get gear oil on the rear wheel, especially after 100+ mile rides.
But, when I looked everything over, it was clear the splines were about 50% worn. Didn't make much sense to have the seal replaced and not fix the splines. But, new splines also means a new dog on the wheel.
So, some money involved in this decision.
There are a couple of alternatives to rebuilding, as outlined above.
But, if rebuild is the right choice for you, you will be happy with Hansen's.
Barron
kwb210
New member
+1 for Hansen's in Oregon
I have a 1977 R100/7 and at 105,000 miles the splines were worn down to 25%, not a good thing when heading into riding season. I removed the tire and tube and took the rim and Final Drive to UPS where they boxed it up and off it went. I suppose I could have put together a box, lots of stuffing to protect the contents etc but in the end I decided to go over to the UPS office. Probably cost me all of $10 bucks for the extra service, maybe less. Done, no looking for a box and tape and ....done. A few weeks later I get an email that it is finished and the final $$ amount I need to call in with a credit card to get it shipped back home. I had enclosed a check for about 75% of the estimate cost to get them started. I now have not only a new FD but a new bearing and oil seal. I figure I am good for at least another 100,000 to 150,000 miles, maybe more as i am pretty easy on the rear end. I always make sure it is loaded before a hard hit on the throttle, simply make sure the slack is taken up before applying a heavy load.
Regards,
Kurt
I have a 1977 R100/7 and at 105,000 miles the splines were worn down to 25%, not a good thing when heading into riding season. I removed the tire and tube and took the rim and Final Drive to UPS where they boxed it up and off it went. I suppose I could have put together a box, lots of stuffing to protect the contents etc but in the end I decided to go over to the UPS office. Probably cost me all of $10 bucks for the extra service, maybe less. Done, no looking for a box and tape and ....done. A few weeks later I get an email that it is finished and the final $$ amount I need to call in with a credit card to get it shipped back home. I had enclosed a check for about 75% of the estimate cost to get them started. I now have not only a new FD but a new bearing and oil seal. I figure I am good for at least another 100,000 to 150,000 miles, maybe more as i am pretty easy on the rear end. I always make sure it is loaded before a hard hit on the throttle, simply make sure the slack is taken up before applying a heavy load.
Regards,
Kurt
happy wanderer
Day Dreaming ...
I have to say you're a great admin Kurt and I appreciate your efforts. You're on it!
Now this fella (whereabouts unknown) has options in the NE, NW, SW and ebay. If someone from Florida pipes in this question is pretty much covered!
