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Thread: Battery Question, Not Brand Related

  1. #1
    RK Ryder
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    Battery Question, Not Brand Related

    Believe I know the answer to my question but checking with more knowledgeable folks than myself. After experiencing a dead battery in SLC last July, I recently picked up a battery booster kit. The supplied short cables can't reach both terminals on my K (no problem with the R). So would boosting the bike's battery work if one were to simply attach to the positive connection and snap the negative claw onto a piece of the bike's frame? As I recall used to do that when jumping a car battery. Will this technique cause any problems doing this with the bike?
    Paul
    Retired and riding my RTs, the '87 K100 & the '98 R1100 !
    Niagara Riders #298 & Knights of the Roundel #333

  2. #2
    3 Red Bricks
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    Paul,

    To jump or boost an early K, attach the positive cable to the positive terminal on your battery and the negative cable to the bolt on the transmission just above the shift lever where the negative cable from your battery is attached.

    That way you have as direct a connection to your battery as possible (assuming the ground cable is tight and in good condition). If it isn't, that's probably why you had to jump or boost your battery in the first place.




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    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
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  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul_F View Post
    Believe I know the answer to my question but checking with more knowledgeable folks than myself. After experiencing a dead battery in SLC last July, I recently picked up a battery booster kit. The supplied short cables can't reach both terminals on my K (no problem with the R). So would boosting the bike's battery work if one were to simply attach to the positive connection and snap the negative claw onto a piece of the bike's frame? As I recall used to do that when jumping a car battery. Will this technique cause any problems doing this with the bike?
    I agree with Lee as far as K bikes are concerned. Of equal interest are bikes like a F650GS or Voni's F800S where battery connections are hard to reach and require plastic removal. On my F650 Dakar and her F800S I ran a single large conductor from the battery to under the seat. I use a large wirenut screwed on the end of the wire. To jump from or to the bike then requires a positive connection to this conductor and a negative connection to a good ground.

    On R1100 and R1150 bikes I jump to the big connector at the starter from the battery since this is the same as connection to the battery about 15 inches away. And of course, the negative to a good ground point on the engine or frame.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  4. #4
    RK Ryder
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98lee View Post
    Paul,

    To jump or boost an early K, attach the positive cable to the positive terminal on your battery and the negative cable to the bolt on the transmission just above the shift lever where the negative cable from your battery is attached.

    That way you have as direct a connection to your battery as possible (assuming the ground cable is tight and in good condition). If it isn't, that's probably why you had to jump or boost your battery in the first place.

    This bolt, Lee?
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    Paul
    Retired and riding my RTs, the '87 K100 & the '98 R1100 !
    Niagara Riders #298 & Knights of the Roundel #333

  5. #5
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    Ergo...

    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    I agree with Lee as far as K bikes are concerned. Of equal interest are bikes like a F650GS or Voni's F800S where battery connections are hard to reach and require plastic removal. On my F650 Dakar and her F800S I ran a single large conductor from the battery to under the seat. I use a large wirenut screwed on the end of the wire. To jump from or to the bike then requires a positive connection to this conductor and a negative connection to a good ground.

    On R1100 and R1150 bikes I jump to the big connector at the starter from the battery since this is the same as connection to the battery about 15 inches away. And of course, the negative to a good ground point on the engine or frame.
    ...And you know whereof thou speaks, since its likely you’ve done it a time or three...

    ...on most every BMW model and a few other makes, one might assume.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul_F View Post
    This bolt, Lee?
    That's the one.

    Since there is some corrosion ON the bolt and several other connectors have been added to that location, make sure that the surfaces BETWEEN the various connectors and the bolt threads are clean and don't have any corrosion like the bolt head.





    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

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    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
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  7. #7
    MOA,ABC,AMA,NEF,BREC,CCA brownie's Avatar
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    Positive jump lead

    Paul.....what gauge would you recc for a positive helper lead ('04 RT)??
    Words to Ride by: Patience, Anticipate, Paranoia
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  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by brownie View Post
    Paul.....what gauge would you recc for a positive helper lead ('04 RT)??
    I used 6 guage.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
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  9. #9
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    Which ever way you go do more than crimped connectors, after crimping I recommend soldering and covering in heat shrink tubing, makes for a very strong connector

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by t6pilot View Post
    Which ever way you go do more than crimped connectors, after crimping I recommend soldering and covering in heat shrink tubing, makes for a very strong connector
    I used a crimped and soldered connector at the battery positive post. I then stripped about 3/4 inch of insulation at the other end and soldered the strands together. I then installed a fairly large wirenut to shield the end of the wire. These have worked very well on two bikes: my F650 Dakar and Voni's F800s.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    I used a crimped and soldered connector at the battery positive post. I then stripped about 3/4 inch of insulation at the other end and soldered the strands together. I then installed a fairly large wirenut to shield the end of the wire. These have worked very well on two bikes: my F650 Dakar and Voni's F800s.
    Paul
    I tend to go overboard on my connectors, think it comes from owning a radial engine airplane, so much shaking standard connectors work loose

    Jim

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by t6pilot View Post
    Paul
    I tend to go overboard on my connectors, think it comes from owning a radial engine airplane, so much shaking standard connectors work loose

    Jim
    I think that in the short term a good crimp would be sufficient but I tend to crimp stuff and then solder the connection too. I am confident that this will provide a solid connection that will outlast any internal combustion engine equipped motorcycle - and we now have one over 400K miles and several over 100K miles.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  13. #13
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    Paul
    I defer to you on anything motorcycle, your work is spot on
    Thanks

    Jim

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