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/5 Clutch & Flywheel Removal- Video

barrettnjones

New member
A time lapse video I shot with my phone. Thought you'd folk would enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHlDi8XxNVE


Notes:
Friend's unheated garage, about 28 degrees, up here in Vermont. I posted a rebuild thread of my '72 R50/5 here on the forum last winter.
It seems I failed to seat the rear main seal good and flush so it was leaky a little bit in the rear. When it's too cold to ride you might as well spin wrenches.

Let me know what you think.
Cheers,
Barrett
 
Really nice documentation and presentation. Easy to follow and really is instructive. What kind of shocks are those??????........God bless.......Dennis
 
A time lapse video I shot with my phone. Thought you'd folk would enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHlDi8XxNVE


Notes:
Friend's unheated garage, about 28 degrees, up here in Vermont. I posted a rebuild thread of my '72 R50/5 here on the forum last winter.
It seems I failed to seat the rear main seal good and flush so it was leaky a little bit in the rear. When it's too cold to ride you might as well spin wrenches.

Let me know what you think.
Cheers,
Barrett

Barrett - thanks for sharing - suggest you re-name your video and include BMW Airhead R75/5 so someone googling can find it easier. It's entertaining and shows what you did - I'd like to see it slower and more detail about blocking the crank up front & in my case R60/5 I needed to fabricate a bar to pull off the flywheel.

But a share is a share and I commend you for doing that!
 
I'd like to see it slower and more detail about blocking the crank up front & in my case R60/5 I needed to fabricate a bar to pull off the flywheel.

Sorry, there is no slower version. The video was shot using an app on my phone that produces the time lapse as you see it. In other words, this was not a video shot a normal speed and digitally sped up later with post editing software. What you see is what you get.

Glad you found it entertaining if not a little informative.

I blocked the crank by placing a plastic plug into the tip of the bolt that holds the alternator. By putting the front cover back on it pushes against the plastic plug keeping it all from moving forward.

Last winter it took a lot of convincing to remove the flywheel. A little grunting a prying seemed to work. This winter, however, as you can see, I was able to turn the flywheel with my hand and pull it out without any problems.
Make sure you mark the flywheel so you put it back in the same spot. Because there's five bolts holding it on you have five different choices to put it back on, four of those ways being incorrect. I used a Sharpie marker to draw a line on the center of the back of the crank and flywheel. You're suppose to mark the clutch components to replace them in the same orientation but I'm not sure why it is imperative to put that back the same way.

Cheers,
Barrett
 
You're suppose to mark the clutch components to replace them in the same orientation but I'm not sure why it is imperative to put that back the same way.

I would think for two reasons...one, if they were initially installed with balance marks distributed 120 degrees apart; and two, to keep the parts that have been wearing together in contact with each other.

I bought new clutch components for my /7 and there were no marks whatsoever...the thinking was that they came from the factory within spec and it doesn't matter how they were installed...weight-wise.
 
Sorry, there is no slower version. The video was shot using an app on my phone that produces the time lapse as you see it. In other words, this was not a video shot a normal speed and digitally sped up later with post editing software. What you see is what you get.

Glad you found it entertaining if not a little informative.

I blocked the crank by placing a plastic plug into the tip of the bolt that holds the alternator. By putting the front cover back on it pushes against the plastic plug keeping it all from moving forward.

Last winter it took a lot of convincing to remove the flywheel. A little grunting a prying seemed to work. This winter, however, as you can see, I was able to turn the flywheel with my hand and pull it out without any problems.
Make sure you mark the flywheel so you put it back in the same spot. Because there's five bolts holding it on you have five different choices to put it back on, four of those ways being incorrect. I used a Sharpie marker to draw a line on the center of the back of the crank and flywheel. You're suppose to mark the clutch components to replace them in the same orientation but I'm not sure why it is imperative to put that back the same way.

Cheers,
Barrett
I was in there to inspect clutch (being replaced) & since that far "in" decided to
r&r main seal & oil pump O ring - parts from northwoods. Was a little daunting but an Airhead Marshall
Came over to help - that's the fellowship we get here
 
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