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Thread: 1981 R100 Rocker Spindle Alignment

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Utopia, Texas

    1981 R100 Rocker Spindle Alignment

    I am resurrecting a low mileage 1981 R100 that was briefly submerged (five feet of water in the garage... just a tad too much rain following a two year drought... be careful what you pray for) and I've run across a slight perplexity with the top end rebuild. My Clymer manual notes that the rocker spindles should be installed with the "punch marked" end up and out. None of my rocker spindles are punch marked at all. As this was not the case on my 1976 R90/6 I didn't pay much attention to the orientation of the spindles when I pulled them out of the rockers to clean up the needle bearings (classic blunder).

    Each spindle has two oiling holes in the interior wall; one straight drilled hole near the end of the spindle and one diagonally chamfered hole opposite the straight hole and slightly farther in toward the center of the spindle.

    Any/all guidance greatly appreciated.


  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    San Antonio, TX
    Anton has some discussion of the punch mark near the bottom of this page:

    as does Snowbum here:
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2012
    It is the attention to detail that determines whether the re-assembled engine will run and the healthy obsession with detail and cleanliness that determines how long the engine will run. Some work is better sent out. To thine own self be true. Good luck!

    AH# 13238

  4. #4
    Smoooooth at 430 gch71's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Katy, Texas

    Without the punch mark???

    Ouch, your in a pickle. One trick that worked for me years ago was assemble everything minus valve covers, place large drip pans underneath each head. Then start engine and note if there is oil flowing or not, I'm not talking a drop or two every ten seconds I'm talking steady stream amount from top of the spindle areas. This worked for me on my /6 with later year spindles that had the punch mark, it was easy, just turn each around 180*...but since yours do not have punch marks you might have to look closely and align one side if that doesn't do the trick and produce the oil flow then turn it around and try again. My .02$ worth.
    ...driving to work on my airhead
    '73 R75/5, '74 R60/6, '75 R60/6, '80R65

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