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Thread: My Biggest Dumb*** Move

  1. #16
    Registered User kioolt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    What did you do wrong that broke the panel? I'd like to know so that I won't do the same thing.
    2004 R1150RT 183,000 miles , 1991 K100LT 128,700 miles, 1982 R100RT 106,900 miles
    Total 418,600 BMW miles
    The cheapest thing on a BMW is the nut that connects the handlebars to the seat.

  2. #17
    143439 bobr9's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Clarkesville, GA
    Quote Originally Posted by kioolt View Post
    What did you do wrong that broke the panel? I'd like to know so that I won't do the same thing.
    Well that is a good question. I would have to say that I was focused almost exclusively on the top and front portions of the fairing so I did not verify that the lower tab piece was free and clear. I think I just assumed it was when it wasn't. So next time I will make sure it is free and not hung up on something prior to pulling the piece away from the bike.

  3. #18
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Florida & Massachusetts
    Quote Originally Posted by kioolt View Post
    What did you do wrong that broke the panel? I'd like to know so that I won't do the same thing.
    I broke mine quite easily by removing the screws, rocking it forward slightly to release the upper tab between the mirror and front of the fairing. That tab is about an in by an inch. Rocking it a touch forward also helps free the fairing from the tank seam. However, when rocked forward the tab that broke can get caught in the cylinder head fins. Before any pulling to remove the fairing it helps to rock the panel toward the back so that the tabs clear the cylinder head fins.

  4. #19
    Mine is developing a crack like that, but it's not all the way through yet. I think the heat is causing the plastic to get brittle. It's all ABS plastic so I got some ABS sheet, about 1/16" think, and ABS pipe cement. When I pull the sides down for my next maintenance I'm going to form the ABS sheet to match the back side over the crack and bond it all together with the pipe cement. The ABS will form easily by heating it in the oven. The thin stuff can also be formed with the use of a heat gun. Once soft you can easily form it by pressing it in place while hot. Be sure to wear some gloves doing this or you will burn your hands.

  5. #20
    My bike doesn't have shark fins, never has since I got it. The panels don't flap around or anything in the past 60K or so. It was an authority bike and they were cut off when I got it. Never even noticed it. Sure makes taking off the cover for the alternator belt a breeze.
    Brian - Everett, WA
    99 R1100RT - Got Kewl-Aid? IBA - SS1K's, BBG
    I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left!

  6. #21
    Registered User pettynerd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Hudson, WI
    My wife has fixed my side panel on my CB400F with a fiberglass fingernail repair kit, it's lasted for years

  7. #22
    This is normal stock and trade work for modern body shops. The EXACT correct repair product is available. There is no need to guess about something working and having it fail after all the expensive finishing and painting.

    Of course 3M is one supplier. There are others.

    We have an Old Dodge conversion van with air dam bumper covers that nearly drag the ground. I backed into something and nearly broke one end off. About an 18" long break. Body man cleaned it up, stitched it together temporally with nylon ties and glued it back together. Repair can't be seen and is permanently repaired just like millions of bumpers and other plastic panels on cars on the road today. I imagine the type labeled for tabs and brackets is stronger at the expense of being less finish-able.
    For small amounts it is possible to dispense with two dowels onto a mixing board rather than the expensive double barreled calking gun and mixer nozzles. Expect to pay about $35.00 a tube. Cheap.
    Good luck.

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