After reading some of the increasing number of posts on the Final Drive (FD) issues, I decided to check mine. I disconnected the brake caliper and sure enough, there was some play and while spinning the rear wheel, there was clearly a bearing going bad in there. The bike has 16,000 miles on it and when I purchased it in Sept. 2011 with only 1600 miles on it, I had always felt (literally) as though the bearing was not good. I could feel the roughness in my feet, especially when braking. So I decided to change the FD bearing. I decided to go with an aftermarket bearing and thanks to Nick Plenzick, I called Hermeys in PA and ordered a new NSK 6013VVC3 and a new shaft seal (33 11 7 679 864). I had changed the FD oil at 12K so removing the FD required the additional step of removing the ISA Screw and Pivot Pin. This proved to be more difficult than I had planned. Make sure you have a good T55 Torx bit and either a 22MM or 15/16 six-point short socket. Once I got the screw out, the threads on mine were covered with red thread-locker!

I used the BMW RepROM for reference throughout this process (33 10 050 & 33 12 560).

Here is the FD mounted to a 4x4 with lag screws: Primitive but it works! Only need to remove wheel flange at this point. I did not have a T40 Torx bit long enough to remove the brake rotor. I had ordered one but found that it really doesnt need to come off unless you already have the long Torx bit. I ordered a 6 Impact T40. The rotor can be removed once the flange is pulled off the wheel axle, and a long bit is not needed. (I did remove the rotor when I was re-installing the flange near the end of this process.)

Note the tool I had made to pull the flange off the wheel axle. Its the same as BMWs tool number 33 2 506. Its sitting on top of the wheel axle.