-
Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password. If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?
-
Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.
The Election forum is here: Election Forum
2010 R1200RT Drive shaft splines
- Thread starter sumolguy
- Start date
regularrider
New member
I lube both sides of the shaft, it does the same thing on both ends. you can remove the cable tie on the rubber boot at the transmission
and carefully pull it back and lube the splines with a small brush pretty simple. just be careful not to pull the drive shaft out all the way
you can get it back in if you do but there is not alot of room due to the rubber boot. if you ever decide to remove the drive shaft completely
to inspect the universal joints you'll have to remove the swingarm the shaft only comes out on the transmission side. don't forget to put a new cable tie on the rubber boot.
Joe,
2010 R1200RT
and carefully pull it back and lube the splines with a small brush pretty simple. just be careful not to pull the drive shaft out all the way
you can get it back in if you do but there is not alot of room due to the rubber boot. if you ever decide to remove the drive shaft completely
to inspect the universal joints you'll have to remove the swingarm the shaft only comes out on the transmission side. don't forget to put a new cable tie on the rubber boot.
Joe,
2010 R1200RT
britturk
New member
I have also been trying to figure this out myself as to if this should be performed periodically and if so, how often ?
Been going through the BMW shop software and haven't seen an area related to lubrication of the input shaft or rear drive splines (not suggesting this says much)
I imagine this is good practice to check for leaks that could be coming from either end in any case.
Sorry if the question is a bit trivial, still trying to understand the rear drive structure and components. (Toddler mechanic)
thanks
Been going through the BMW shop software and haven't seen an area related to lubrication of the input shaft or rear drive splines (not suggesting this says much)
I imagine this is good practice to check for leaks that could be coming from either end in any case.
Sorry if the question is a bit trivial, still trying to understand the rear drive structure and components. (Toddler mechanic)
thanks
lkraus
New member
As best I can determine, spline lube was a concern for the 1100 and 1150 models, but is not an issue on the 1200. There was apparently a design change to the pivot geometry that eliminated fore/aft movement to zero, so there is no movement along the spline. Spline lube is not on the maintenance schedule, and I've seen pictures of high mileage splines with no lube and no appreciable wear. Drive shaft assembly instructions do call for Optimoly TA paste on the splines, though. On the theory that it can't hurt, I renew my rear spline lube when I change the FD oil, but then on my '06, I have to drop the FD drive anyway.
pglaves
#13338
Just a note: spline lube has not been on the maintenance schedule since 1981. That means absolutely zero about whether experience has shown it to be needed or not.
As for the 1200s, I have not heard of any significant number of failures. But I also vividly recall the folks who claimed it wasn't needed on K75s or K100s, then on R1100s, then R1150s, etc.
I am not saying that I know it is needed. I don't. But experience has taught me to take with a huge grain of salt claims that certain things aren't needed.
As for the 1200s, I have not heard of any significant number of failures. But I also vividly recall the folks who claimed it wasn't needed on K75s or K100s, then on R1100s, then R1150s, etc.
I am not saying that I know it is needed. I don't. But experience has taught me to take with a huge grain of salt claims that certain things aren't needed.
wyman.winn
i should be out riding!
i agree that lubing the splines on the 2010+ RTs is not in the service schedule...nonetheless i will be pulling the swingarm/driveshaft on my 2013 at 50k miles (only 8k to go) for kicks and giggles....and to lube the splines and inspect the universal joints...
wyman
wyman
I've been thinking about a prophylactic swing arm remove/inspect myself. If I remember correctly, torquing that swing arm lock nut takes a special socket cut away to allow a hex wrench to hold the pivot bolt. Anyone found a source other than the dealer for that?
JayJay
wyman.winn
i should be out riding!
britturk
New member
I thought removal of the pivot-bolt was only required to remove the entire rear-drive assembly and not for dropping it to inspect the spline on r1200 series...is that not the case ?
Was watching one of the Chris Harris videos on an R1100 or R1150 and he wasn't particularly happy about the amount of loctite that was apparently used on those bolts at the factory...not sure if same applies to all models.
Bugra
Was watching one of the Chris Harris videos on an R1100 or R1150 and he wasn't particularly happy about the amount of loctite that was apparently used on those bolts at the factory...not sure if same applies to all models.
Bugra
Thanks, Wyman - that's what I'd pretty much decided to do. Harbor Freight is a good thing, sometimes.
JayJay
deilenberger
A bozo on the bus
So far I can't recall seeing a report of a driveshaft spline failure on the hex/cam heads.. and I've been on this forum (and some others for R1200R's) for a while now. And some of the bikes have accumulated some considerable mileage now (going on 10 years old..)
I have heard of U-joint failures though, so IMHO still a good idea to examine them when you lower the rear drive to change the oil (or on the newer ones with a rear-drive drain plug - just lower it to check the U joint.) While it's apart it's trivial to put some new grease on the splines (I'm using Wurth-3000, it seems to stick around a long time.)
A good U-joint moves smoothly through it's range of movement with the same amount of effort. It shouldn't flop - it should have a tiny bit of resistance to movement. One of those things you learn when you have done a lot of automotive U joints (and at one point - I did.) One that moves real easily in the center of it's range is actually worn. Perhaps not enough to need replacing yet, but I wouldn't leave on a 6,000 mile trip with one like that.
It is more difficult to examine and check the splines on the front U-joint to transmission spline - since on most models (apparently not the GS though) removal requires removing the entire swing-arm. Not a totally trivial exercise, but not impossible either. I'd save that for major services - like 80,000 mile ones. The failures do seem to be primarily the rear U-joint, although I can recall 1 front U-joint failure report here.
And IMHO - what's really important - make sure on reassembly that the rubber boots are in the correct position, with the plastic expanders where they belong and some white-grease on the rubber-to-metal surfaces. If they are in place - they keep water out of the swingarm assembly, meaning rust is much less likely to start and cause a failure.
I have heard of U-joint failures though, so IMHO still a good idea to examine them when you lower the rear drive to change the oil (or on the newer ones with a rear-drive drain plug - just lower it to check the U joint.) While it's apart it's trivial to put some new grease on the splines (I'm using Wurth-3000, it seems to stick around a long time.)
A good U-joint moves smoothly through it's range of movement with the same amount of effort. It shouldn't flop - it should have a tiny bit of resistance to movement. One of those things you learn when you have done a lot of automotive U joints (and at one point - I did.) One that moves real easily in the center of it's range is actually worn. Perhaps not enough to need replacing yet, but I wouldn't leave on a 6,000 mile trip with one like that.
It is more difficult to examine and check the splines on the front U-joint to transmission spline - since on most models (apparently not the GS though) removal requires removing the entire swing-arm. Not a totally trivial exercise, but not impossible either. I'd save that for major services - like 80,000 mile ones. The failures do seem to be primarily the rear U-joint, although I can recall 1 front U-joint failure report here.
And IMHO - what's really important - make sure on reassembly that the rubber boots are in the correct position, with the plastic expanders where they belong and some white-grease on the rubber-to-metal surfaces. If they are in place - they keep water out of the swingarm assembly, meaning rust is much less likely to start and cause a failure.
natrab
New member
I was thinking of leaving mine alone until 80k. I was just contemplating if I wanted to mess with any of that as my 48k service will be approaching soon. On my last bike, I used to clean and lube the rear splines every time I'd change the FD fluid (since I had to drop the FD anyways). My friend's '07 RT had a U-joint failure with apparent rust which led me to believe all that servicing led to the boot not being properly sealed at some point and letting water in. Since I have a 5 year unlimited miles warranty and I am averaging 30k a year, I figured it's best to just leave the boot alone for the time being. I think when I hit 80k or so I will pull the whole swingarm to inspect the drive shaft and final drive and replace anything if necessary. That will be my first spline re-grease and boot replacement.
If I'm all wrong on this, then the warranty may get put to use! As was said, it's not in the maintenance schedule so I assume if you had all maintenance done at the dealer, they would never lube the drive shaft splines until after something had failed and been replaced.
