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Atlantic Provinces 2013

H

HONDARIDER

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It was just aboutthis time last year when I started planning my trip down the Blue Ridge Parkway from Western Massachusetts. I received all sorts of helpful advice, recommendations on places to eat, things to see. etc.. The trip was fantastic thanks, in part, to the information gathered here. This year I'm planning to take my GSA for a tour of some portion of the Atlantic Provinces between 15JUN13 and 23JUN13. I don't have much of an intinerary at this point, but I know I'd like to ride the Cabot Trail and I don't plan on camping. Any advice regarding noteworthy routes, motorcyclist friendly lodging, and, most importantly, good restaurants would be greatly appreciated. I'll likely spend the next several months poring over maps, reading trip reports all over the internet, and trying to figure out what the weather will be like in mid to late June. All inputs are appreciated.

Thanks
 
I did a similar trip mid September 1997, 8 days and 3000 miles with a riding friend of mine. We left from NJ, up to Maine and east through New Brunswick, crossing the Canso Causeway onto Cape Breton. 2 1/2 days of heavy rain and fog then turned nice. He was on a BMW K75, while I had a Honda CBR 1000F. We were fortunate in that my Brother in Laws father had quite a nice house in River Bourgeois just east of the causeway which we used as a base. In general what we did was tour the perimeter and the interior of Cape Breton. We left our base taking rte 19 North up to the Cabot Trail, then rte 105 south to Little Narrows. Some how we did rte 223 n to rte 16 n around Lake Brasd'or Lake to East Bay and south on the lake scenic drive and back to base. Next day we did a trip using the Eastern scenic route up to Louisbourg Nat'l Historic Site, then North to Glace Bay and West to Sydney proceeding to the Cabot Trail. Couldn't find a place to stay soheaded back to the Sydney area and finally found a place after dark to spend the night. Next day back to the Cabot trail, North to Bay of St Lawrence and south on the trail over to Brasd'or Lake ultimately back to our base. Next day we left Cape Breton heading West some how on rte 105 and rte 4 arriving at the ferry to PEI. What a beautiful place! We were running out of time so only did rte 1 west [shore rte] to Borden and took the bridge over to Nova Scotia. At that point we were heading out and back to NJ. Overall Cape Breton was great, nice touring roads, very scenic, friendly people but at the same time the economy has suffered [sorry to say]. Lodging was a bit difficult, but I can put the brunt of the blame on us for poor planning. At least I've been there. My grand Parents families had immigrated from Scotland and Ireland to the Port Hawkesbury area and I did take the time to see to scout the area where I know the had lived. Did not have enough time to properly see PEI which was a big mistake, but then again I wanted to go to Newfoundland if for no other reason to say that Ive been there. Very worthwhile and enjoyable trip, great riding. I can't give much in the way of lodging or places to eat, but enjoy you will!

Jim
 
I'd like to ride the Cabot Trail and I don't plan on camping.

Start by ordering up the Motorcycle Tour Guide Nova Scotia, a compact tank-bag-sized guide that apparently now covers all of the Atlantic provinces. I see they are charging for it now; it used to be free. The 2012 copy is still available.

The Cabot Trail was a nice drive. I did it both clockwise and counter-clockwise. If only going around once, do it counter-clockwise.

I didn't have anything booked in advance (that would be like going on an organized tour) and stayed at Laurie's Motor Inn in Cheticamp and at MacNeil's Motel in North Sydney. Laurie's was basic but pricey; MacNeil's was basic and inexpensive.
 
Tom is correct about June..... real crap shoot around weather. Not really the best time of year but still a great ride. No camping is fine but you might want to have a sleeping bag in case you find a nice place with camper cabins. Thinking that you might like to ride into Meat Cove and use one of their new cabins. The ride in, seeing as you have a GSA (not that you need anything like that though), is quite a thrill and the scenery at the 'edge of the earth' is fantastic. Google them (Meat Cove Campground) for more info. Ask if the Chowder Hut is open. You might want to take a look at the route that we take for the Salty Fog Riders Rally (see signature below). Lots to see and do. - Bob
 
Hi, wife and I have been to Nova Scotia twice in the last few years, first we came on the bike via the fast ferry from Bar Harbor Me. , no longer an option, next we drove from Ma. with the car thru New Brunswick , neither time did we make any reservations till the morning, then we would stop at the information booths that it seems all the towns have. At about 11;00 am we would stop, plan where we wanted to stay that night, ask the lovely people at the info desk, they would recommend a place, some by experience , and off we would go with no worry's about where we will sleep.
awesome trips both times, great people

Brian
 
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I did the trip from NC in 2010. We went the first week of June. Plan for the weather. Lots of rain and fog. The temp will swing wildly. Heated gear was a must for me. 30s and rainy to 70s and sweating very quickly. The roads sucked in many places. Almost too much for the RT. No problem for the GS.

We stayed in Truro coming and going. Plenty of food there, and you can watch the tidal bore.
We also stayed in Sydney out by the trail.

The trail is awesome, but we only saw about half of it due to the fog and it was freezing.

I would do it again, but maybe not in June.

We did not make the plan over to Halifax due to the downtime drying an thawing.

No complaints though, a life adventure with lots of memories.
 
I lived in Halifax for 5 years (left in '02). June is not optimum. Fog is the biggest problem. Annapolis Valley is not be missed. The Blomidon Inn in Wolfville is an awesome B&B with great food. The Liscombe Lodge on the St Mary's river is another GREAT place to layover. They have 1 br cottages and the best planked Salmon you'll ever have. You can watch the salmon fly-fishing from the restaurant. If you're going to the Cabot Trail there are a couple of motels near the Red Barn at the start of the trail. Hotels in Cape Breton aren't like they are in the states, don't expect too much. Halifax is a pub town famour for the Celtic bars with live Irish music. You're also close to Peggy's Cove. Roads in Nova Scotia are rough at best. If you need service, locate the BWM auto dealer; in Canada the auto dealer services/sells motorcycles also.
 
Our trip was the second week of July last year (2012) so you will have cooler temps. Weather was warm with one day of heavy mist.
We spent five days based at a cottage centered on Cape Breton Island. This cottage was our base camp and provided ready access to any point on the island. It also gave one bike a chance to tighten a few bolts. They're great hosts and the place was neat, clean and nicely decorated. Owner couple also ride bikes.
http://www.mcintyrescottages.com
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Graham_Bell_National_Historic_Site
A couple of us chose to ride to Inverness for a round of golf at a newly opened links course. .
http://www.cabotlinks.com/
Our wives flew in to do some touring of their own but joined us for supper at the Rankin family (canadian singing group) restaurant. Check their schedule out ahead of time to pick your choice of music. It's a small venue but amazing food and live music.
We returned to Inverness to watch the amazing sun sets while walking the beach boardwalk between the links course and shoreline.
http://www.redshoepub.com/
These are just a few of the highlights but you can't go wrong with this as a destination.
 
Gaspesie & Cape Breton

I rode the Gasp?® in 2008, and Cape Breton in 2010. The first one was rainy, but great roads. The second one was shortened by Hurricane Earl, which I rode out in a Coastal Inn near Antigonish: reasonable rates, bike-friendly and free candles while power was out. I used Salty Fog route as a guide, but missed their rally due to my work schedule. Maybe I'll ride with them sometime, but this September I plan to ride in the Dolomites.

On bit of advice for either ride: At the tip of Maine, I took a ferry from Campobello to Deer Island, then another ferry to St. George NB. Very scenic.
 

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Thank you all for the inputs and information. I'm considering a change in schedule to August based on weather feedback. Now I need to figure out what to do in June.
 
Thank you all for the inputs and information. I'm considering a change in schedule to August based on weather feedback. Now I need to figure out what to do in June.


Well..... you could take in the RA rally in June :dunno:thumb And, as for the schedule shift, August will be a better month for the weather. - Bob
 
Greeting
Nova Scotia is great!
Hideaway Campground and Oyster Market If you like oysters these are the very freshest that you will ever find. The view is great.
Meat Cove Campground is the end of the road and a must. Restaurant is good. The camp bathrooms are a mess. High winds.
The capital, Halifax is worth the spending the night and day.
The Cove Oceanfront Campground The most expensive and nicest campground that we ever stayed at, we stayed two nights. No beer, fresh scallops and cooked lobster minutes away.
tony
 
Thank you all for the inputs and information. I'm considering a change in schedule to August based on weather feedback. Now I need to figure out what to do in June.

Late August and September are my favourite time of year for vacation. The problem is that you are at the start of hurricane season on the east coast. Granted they're hit or miss, but hurricanes are huge and if one coincides with your trip you can be riding in rain for days. Got caught in one on my last trip out that way and it was full rain gear several days in a row.

I'm planning my next trip to the Maritimes in June for that reason.
 
Late August and September are my favourite time of year for vacation. The problem is that you are at the start of hurricane season on the east coast. Granted they're hit or miss, but hurricanes are huge and if one coincides with your trip you can be riding in rain for days. Got caught in one on my last trip out that way and it was full rain gear several days in a row.

I'm planning my next trip to the Maritimes in June for that reason.

Please don't take this personally but that is one of the MOST erroneous statements regarding Atlantic Canada that I have ever heard!! Geesh!.... Bumpy roads? check... Interesting weather patterns? check Friendly folks? check .... Hurricane Season? WTF?

However, yer just messin' with him right? - Bob
 
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Please don't take this personally but that is one of the MOST erroneous statements regarding Atlantic Canada that I have ever heard!! Geesh!.... Bumpy roads? check... Interesting weather patterns? check Friendly folks? check .... Hurricane Season? WTF?

However, yer just messin' with him right? - Bob

I've been to the Maritimes twice on a bike, both times around the Labour Day holiday. Once in the mid 80's, got caught in a hurricane on Cape Breton, the water got contaminated by flooding and I ended up in the hospital in Sydney with gastric poisoning.

In 2009 on the way back from a trip around the Trans-Lab, got caught in Hurricane Bill and spent two very soggy days. Missed a planned trip around the Cabot Trail due to that one.

Based on personal experience, a well validated statement. Friendly people, (the best!) beautiful scenery, great history, one of my absolutely favourite places to go. Based on personal experience I will be restricting future bike trips east to the time of year before late August.
 
I've been to the Maritimes twice on a bike, both times around the Labour Day holiday. Once in the mid 80's, got caught in a hurricane on Cape Breton, the water got contaminated by flooding and I ended up in the hospital in Sydney with gastric poisoning.

In 2009 on the way back from a trip around the Trans-Lab, got caught in Hurricane Bill and spent two very soggy days. Missed a planned trip around the Cabot Trail due to that one.

Based on personal experience, a well validated statement. Friendly people, (the best!) beautiful scenery, great history, one of my absolutely favourite places to go. Based on personal experience I will be restricting future bike trips east to the time of year before late August.
____________________________

If I remember correctly our Salty Fog Rally got whacked in 2010 by some extremely unfortunate weather. And this year we experienced sunshine, some heavy rain and angry seas and then being thrown into a 'spin dry cycle' with sunshine and steamy riding gear. It was an adventure. Our rally is held the week including and following Labour Day. However, our experience is (and any Salty Fog Alumni please jump in on this one eh) that the weather is much more stable at this time. June is iffy, tendency to be decidedly chilly (especially if you get that painful cold misty rain). All in all, we do not have a 'hurricane season' but....but.... the weather can turn on ya..... especially in the Highlands. At least during our week long rolling rally we have the opportunity to experience some of the weather alternatives (no snow though!) Coastal weather is often a 'crap shoot'. Always good to chat with locals regarding it. If the clothes are all hung out then you can expect a pleasant day for riding.... usually.

Bottom line: Ride whenever to and wherever in Nova Scotia. You will most likely come away with a grin and a few adventure stories ..... like life. - Bob
 
I don't care if it's pouring down rain or socked in when I'm in Nova Scotia, but nothing has yet beat the 8 sunny days -- in a row -- at the end of August/beginning of September in 2009. It can be nice like that in June, but it's a far bigger gamble. Someone I know, who may have an account here, did a five day Cabot Trail trip in June a few years ago and didn't see a thing because of the fog.
 
Places to Stay in Windsor & Amherst NS

Anyone with Nova Scotia touring experience know of some good places to stay while in Windsor and Amherst, Nova Scotia? Based on some posts here we've booked a cottage at McIntyres in Baddeck, to base camp for the Cabot Trail.

Thanks guys..
 
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