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New BMW guy, old rider, and BMW brakes

Who woulda thought that my first post ever on this forum would result in 39+ responses in just three days! Gotta love it. Oh yeah, and I've learned a little too. :clap

If you REALLY want a post-count, ask an OIL question... :bolt
 
Stopping in curves

If you REALLY want a post-count, ask an OIL question... :bolt

I believe you were the person who mentioned the importance of practicing straight line stops, swerving, and stopping in curves. Since there seem to be a number of MSF instructors on this thread, just wondered how you now teach this difficult skill - at least difficult in the real world of 2-lane curvy roads.

BTW, I do regularly practice quick straight line stops (with non-functioning ABS, I get on the rear brake pretty hard, squeeze on the front brake to almost the point of lock-up, eeze off the back brake as I am doing so, then eeze off the front brake and get hard on the back brake when I am down to a few MPH.) Trust I am doing this right. ABS certainly simplifies things. And I also practice swerving. (Again if I have this right, that means hard counter-steering with NO braking or throttle change during the maneuver.)

"Stopping in a curve" seems most problematic, unless you are going slow enough that you can right the bike and stop in a straight line. Actually, that is what I try to do - ride the sharp curves very slowly. And I have never once had to stop. Don't think that is the plan of most BMW riders I know. So how do you teach (and encourage students to practice) stopping in curves?
 
I believe you were the person who mentioned the importance of practicing straight line stops, swerving, and stopping in curves. Since there seem to be a number of MSF instructors on this thread, just wondered how you now teach this difficult skill - at least difficult in the real world of 2-lane curvy roads.


Good morning Doug:

The practice drill we do is this: The student, from the starting gate position usually across a short side of the range, accelerates to some speed, usually 12-15 mph or so. It is optional as to what gear, first or second, but it works better in second for most people. He/she enters a marked 90 degree turn left or right (depends on which end of the range the student is on) using proper look-press-roll technique. At some point in the turn, the student does a quick counter-steer on the opposite bar to get the bike quickly upright and handle bars square (front wheel straight), then applies both brakes fully. We demonstrate that the bike can go outside the marked lane position if necessary.

I generally suggest the students lead slightly with the rear brake to get the weight transfer going forward (forks compress) so there is no danger of a front tire lockup and the almost guaranteed crash that might occur. I also brief the mantra: If you lock the rear brake, press harder and stay on it until the bike stops. If you lock the front tire, release it immediately.

The key thing to practice is to quickly counter-steer (using a good strong push on the bars) to upright the bike quickly and the front tire squared up straight ahead so you have all traction available for brakes, and can be used at any speed.

This is the same reason we teach separating the braking and swerving when you need to do those. If you are doing an emergency swerve, you will be using most all of the available traction to get around the obstacle, and if you touch the brakes the bike is probably going to crash.

The swerve, braking in a turn, and quick stop maneuvers should be practiced regularly, because at some point in everyone's career, you absolutely will need them.

I have had two "live" uses of these maneuvers in the past couple of years: Coming around a blind sharp left turn leaned over at about 15 mph, I came face to face with a combine sitting across both lanes with the cutter knives aimed my way. Did a perfect quick stop that worked as advertised :)

About a month ago, the wife and I were riding in the country when a deer jumped out of a ditch to my right directly into our path of travel. She yelled "Deer" in the intercom, and I was instantly on the brakes straight ahead at which point the deer moved directly in front of us. Harder squeeze on the brakes kicked in the ABS and avoided the immediate contact, and then I had to perform a quick right swerve when the deer decided to put on the brakes and slow down to see where I was !

Everything happened so quickly in both examples that conscious thought did not occur. It was automatic muscle memory reaction that was built up from constant practice.

As for daily warm-up practice I have a little routine leaving my neighborhood;

Out the driveway turn right, then do a quick figure 8 maneuver.

Down the street, swerve left/right around the first fireplug marker reflector, the the opposite way around the second one.

In the sweeper curve leaving the subdivision at about 25 mph, do a quick counter steer to upright the bike and perform the quick stop in the curve.

Last thing is the quick stop straight ahead at the stop sign before getting into traffic.

That routine gets the muscle memory primed for the combat zone ride in traffic and parking lots !

Hope this answers your question.
 
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As for daily warm-up practice I have a little routine leaving my neighborhood;

Now that is a dang good idea.
Also forces a mental shift from riding logistics (gear, routing, etc) to obstacle recognition and avoidance.

Thanks for that one.
 
I'm curious what techniques you all use.

Most of the time, pretty well all front brake with a touch of the rear.

Around here where the roads are hilly at best and with big sweepers, that works. In the Alps where hairpin turns can take you around a garbage can and are very steep, I use the rear brake on the downhill sections.

Emergency braking which is ultra rare, both are used. As rear wheel loading decreases, rear brakes are decreased.

BTW, no ABS on my BMWs.
 
My first post so pls bear with me, this may sound kind of basic to seasoned BMW riders...This past August I bought a 2012 R1200RT after almost 30 years since selling my last bike, a Honda 750 Sabre. I love the RT and feel pretty comfortable with it to this point but recognize the need to go back thru a riding class to renew some lost skills (had a class scheduled but had to cancel due to business travel. Rescheduled for mid-January). This question is about the best practice for the bike's brake system. They are impressive to say the least, but the technical and anecdotal stuff I've read about the partially integrated ABS system seems contradictory at times. I have always been a proponent of lots of front brake and judicious use of rear brake during both routine and "aggressive" braking. But if I read the technical info correctly, on the RT you get maximized front and rear braking using only the front brake lever. In fact I've noticed at times that when I initiate braking with the front lever and then get on the rear pedal, the pedal seems to pulse as though the ABS is kicking in. I'm curious what techniques you all use.

On my 2010 RT, I use the rear brake alone mainly during slow speed maneuvering, on loose surfaces, or to keep from rolling when stopped. When stopping, for smoothness, I apply more rear brake than BMW programmed in, during the last few MPH of slowing.

In twisties or during aggressive braking, I rely on the front lever alone, to give me optimum proportional braking. They've never let me down. They are without a doubt the best brakes on any motorcycle I've ridden. I keep off the rear when riding aggressively in corners, since I really don't want a locked up rear tire steering me off the road.

However - I ride several bikes, with different break configurations, so I practice coordinated braking often. BTW, I really disliked the R1150RT fully integrated brakes for anything except straight stops on pavement.
 
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