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Slash 5 Flywheel removal

Another fun tool!

Using the clutch centering tool makes life better. At least for the couple of minutes when you go to install the transmission! Nothing better than alignment, okay, nothing currently comes to mind. Use the tool as you insert the bolts to begin pressing the clutch assembly back into the flywheel, lots of pressure, do it carefully and with the correct bolts. Then the allens that will be placed are much easier to install to their 17 ft lbs.
 

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I've done three clutches in the past few years and have yet to use one of those tools! I have been able to eyeball the disk in the center, then feed the transmission on partially, hook up the clutch cable, pull it once, and it self centers. If I had the tool, I'd probably use it though....
 
It's pretty obvious why this guy is being pulled over... everybody knows it's illegal to drive with a crack in your windshield. :bolt

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i'm glad someone responded to that picture!!!

It took more hours to see a response than I thought it would!
So...moving along, i cleaned up the transmission, getting the spline ready for the sticky grease stuff. It was not to dirty, I use scotch-brite and either WD-40 or a solvent to clean off the grease/clutch dust, it goes pretty fast.
 

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Sticky moly grease

I bought this little container a few years ago, have used it a number of times and am surprised at how far it goes. Each time I am surprised at just how sticky the stuff is, I guess it has to manage itself in a spinning world where the goal is to spin off the grease, follow that?
 

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Transmission in place, the right place!

So the spline is nicely coated with the sticky moly grease, the frame rails are protected by plumbing insulation ( no reason to hack up the frame with a bunch of chips ) and the transmission slips, slides, rolls and suddenly slides into the right position, it helps to remove the clutch actuating rod, gives a little more clearance. With the clutch rod out of the way the transmission can be moved into the spot without any real hassle or chipping of paint, take your time! Repeat "just take your time" and it will go where it should go.
 

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Oh yeah, the swingarm

Now with the transmission in place and a couple of fasteners holding it tight to the engine block you can finish up the swingarm. I had pulled out the bearings, cleaned off the old stiff grease, dried them out and pushed in new wheel bearing grease. I used a light touch of scotch brite pad to very carefully take off any ridges from the race, they are tiny so just a light wiping works to clean the races up. Insert the greased bearings into the swingarm. Take the new grease seal and carefully push in the spacer. Then place on the swingarm and use a large socket to bump it into place. Once on the bike I will then push a grease gun into the fitting and finish filling the area with grease. i usually leave a bit in between the frame and the swingarm to prevent water from entering.
 

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Swingarm on the bike!

Using a couple of jack stands it is easy to slide the swingarm into the frame. Align the holes and screw in the swing arm pivot bolts and then of course do the balancing act of getting it centered.
 

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Nice job !

Thanks for all the details and pics. It's nice to see the job done right. I replaced the clutch in my /5 back in the 70's on my front porch. It took all night and I didn't have any of those fancy tools but wish I did. Next day after I put it in, I left on a Mexico trip and worried about it for the next two weeks until I got back. I didn't have any trouble with it at all which goes to show you that these bikes are just easy to work on.

I do appreciate your information on tools and the pics; the next time I have to do the job I will do it better.

DW
 
Blocking the crank

Nice write-up and photos. There is only one very brief mention in post #1 about blocking the crank before proceeding with this job. It's worth mentioning how important this is to avoid possible engine damage or a possible engine teardown. Do you have a photo of the crank blocked to share?
 
Blocked crank

I did mention the fact that I had blocked the crank, and a picture is sure helpful. I have the white plastic block from Cycleworks ( www.cycleworks.com ) he has some great tools! One end has threads on it the other bolt head, just screw it into the alternator hole until it is snug.
 

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Front cover to hold block in place

Now we all know that the battery has long ago been disconnected!!! Put the front cover back into place, or nearly so, I start the two top allens enough to hold the cover, then the bottom shorter one. As you can see in the picture the top just about closes but nearer the bottome there is a gap and that is because the blocking screw/bolt is extended a bit, that is okay. Just snug the bolts.
 

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As long as we are on the front cover...

I feel it is the attention to detail that can make the difference in a good running bike and a great running bike that is reliable as well. When you remove the cover to take out the blocking screw/bolt make sure the rubber hose that protects the wire coming down from the condenser is properly in place. The rubber is slotted to fit perfectly into the engine case making a watertight seal. While a slash 5 does not have a vented front cover it may be less important. Slash 6's and slash 7's have a vent for cooling. This vent is also a way for water to enter during a heavy rain storm. If the rubber is not exactly in the slot then water can make its way into the points area. No need to go into the usual result of water and electrical connections, it usually means you will be looking for a ride. The picture shows the rubber piece pulled away from the engine case, this can easily happen when you remove the front cover. As you are re-installing the cover just use a light to shine in the tiny area before pushing in the cover, to must resistance and it is probably not seating right. Take your time, do it right and you will probably not be back in there for a couple of years or many thousands of miles. That is one cool thing about these airheads, do the job right and with care to detail and that job is done for perhaps a decade of riding.
 

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Thanks for posting!

Thanks! Very good photos and advice. Nice to see how these tools are used also. I hope to be doing all of this soon. Still trying to remove screws from the clutch -4 of 6 so far.
 
A suggestion for next time - Assemble the clutch release lever etc onto the back of the transmission before the transmission-to-engine bolts are snugged up. Then release the clutch & tie the clutch handle to the pulled in position so that the clutch disk is free to move radially around the flywheel and the engine transmission can be "floated" into position.

This is to minimize any alignment error between the transmission and engine - just in case the clutch disk alignment tool doesn't give you a perfect alignment. This is probably most important for those of you who are just eyeballing the initial alignment.

I'm suspicious that poor alignment may be causing some of the clutch spline alignment and strip out problems - especially in the R11XX and higher bikes.

A really good set of explanations and pictures!
 
Nice write-up and pics... the only thing I would have mentioned is that, once the transmission is bolted up, place the swingarm with driveshaft as you have done, but PRIOR to installing swingarm bolts, re-attach the driveshaft. This is much more easily done with the swingarm housing slid aft as far as possible. Once bolted, THEN install the swingarm pivot bolts etc. Do the final torque on the four drive bolts later, when wheel is installed and everything is nicely blocked up.

Found this out when I was dis-mantling, after having read that it gives so much more clearance for the Four Buggers on the driveshaft!

:whistle
 
Great thread & timely as I'm in the throes of doing same procedure - still working on removing stuck flywheel - letting her sit with PB Blaster - next step is installing bar on flywheel to pull it off.

Maybe I'll service the swing arm bearing - looks like fun! You've definitely got some nice tools!
 
Swing-arm tool: don't have to have one

You don't really need the swing-arm tool, it is really cool to use and I have used it on another bike, my 1977 R100/7, plus some friends bikes so it is fun to have. But you can carefully pull the seal out without any damage. Then you will see just how old the grease looks in there! Once you do it that will be it for our lifetime, well just about. It is worth it especially since it's cold out side and what the heck else are you doing on the bike! Fun and rewarding project that should not get you into trouble. I always consider that.
You are welcome to shoot any concerns out and I will help.
kurt
 
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