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Thanks, Dan. On further investigation, I found a screw hidden behind each passenger grab rail. Two more were in the tail section. You have to hold your tongue just right to see them.If you go on the Wunderlich website and navigate to the side case protection bars you can download a PDF with info to install them. It may give you some help with removing the side panels.
Dan
R1200RT
Ventura, CA
I need to get the rear rack off on my 2011 R12RT to access the alarm system to change the batteries in such....and....
one of the screws inside the tail/brake light is stripped and will not loosen...it turns but will not come out....the other one came out fine....
now what???
If the threads seem stripped- meaning you are sure that it is not the "head" of the bolt, and the bolt is just spinning because the threads are not holding anything, the bolt should be free in the once threaded area.I need to get the rear rack off on my 2011 R12RT to access the alarm system to change the batteries in such....and....
one of the screws inside the tail/brake light is stripped and will not loosen...it turns but will not come out....the other one came out fine....
now what???
For future reference those screws are threaded into metal inserts in the plastic rack. BMW applied loctite to the threads and heat needs to be applied to the screw head to soften the loctite before attempting removal. Not doing so causes the insert to break free from the plastic and spin with the bolt. Use a soldering iron or similar to apply heat.
As I recall I went ape-**** applying a lot of prying force on the rack to get it off leaving the screw/insert still attached to the framework. After that I was able to separate the insert from the screw. I JB welded the insert back in the hole, cleaned off the loctite and reassembled with anti seize and not much torque. No problems since.
Edit: I seem to recall using vice-grips on one side of the rack where the insert is located. I did my best to protect the surface but recall that that area is pretty well hidden when assembled. Squeezing the plastic allowed me to thread one bolt out. The other side required the force mentioned above.
I would attempt heating the bolt and squeezing the plastic to grip the insert first. If no luck them put an upward load on the rack while turning the bolt (use an impact or drill), the insert will machine itself out of the rack. The rack is very tough stuff... I would think you could lift the bike before it would come close to breaking. Its been a while but I would guess the insert looks something like this https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1007/4332/products/insert-pressure-m5_1024x1024.jpg?v=1464956537
With the further information supplied, you may be able to drill through the plastic, to the now loose insert, and "wedge" it from turning while you used the "normal" heating method to loosen the Loc-tite with the appropriate driver bit.
OM
When I do a repair like this, if I have to do a repair like this, I drill out corresponding holes much like dowling wood together. Once the hole(s) are drilled I use a filler (dowel) which could be a wood sliver or a piece of a paper clip. Yesterday the filler on a plastic part was a bread tie.
Once things are prepared, I use West System G-Flex epoxy which I can recommend as a repair adhesive.
Yesterday’s repair using this method was a plastic part drilled and epoxied was the size of a pencil eraser- drilled, dowled, reinforced and epoxied and looking good.
OM