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prep for winter storage

badgertom

New member
I wonder if products like Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil really work on cleaning the
engine ( by adding to engine oil) or the carburator (by adding to fuel). I have used both and can't tell if sludge, etc. is removed. I usually add to the oil, run the engine for a while then drain the oil. A friend tells me I'm just wasting money.
 
tank dry or filled w fuel?

What are the thoughts on the fuel tank? Do you leave it empty? I have in the past drained the fuel from the carbs and think there is less harm doing that than leaving fuel in them, I think that is probably a universal feeling. I am wondering about the tank. No fuel at all sounds good, but, I am wondering if the tank lining will dry out and flake off, yikes, that would be terrible. I store my most ridden bikes for about 4-5 months every year. I have a couple of tanks that have been dry for a couple of years, they are waiting for placement on bikes I am in the process of restoring/bringing back to life. At the rate I am going they will be dry for quite sometime!
How long will you be storing?
kurt
 
I don't think the lining will dry out. I would be more concerned about the petcocks. Tribal lore used to say the they should not be turned if they were dry; the seal was prone to abrasion and would then leak.
 
If you plan on storing the tank with fuel in it, ensure the tank is full. As temperature changes the tank will "breathe", and in so doing admit moisture/water vapor into the tank. Minimizing the air volume will minimize the amount of water vapor that will condense in the tank, which will minimize corrosion on the tank bottom.
 
Why?

Dumb question: with tanks full, blue Stabil added and run through the system, why drain the float bowls? I've done it both ways, and I've never seen a difference.

Eric
 
Dumb question: ......why drain the float bowls?

One reason is to allow the floats to get out of today's alcohol laden fuel. The alcohol will damage the coating on some floats. I drain my bowls whenever the bike is going to sit more than a day or so. It also prevents the fuel from evaporating and leaving gunk in the bowl (not too much of a problem for short-term storage), and if the floats have lost their protective coating due to alcohol and started to absorb fuel, then this will allow them to dryout.
 
Usually, I fill the tank with (none alcohol) fuel add stabilizer and drain the float bowls. I also change the engine oil and sometimes all the remaining fluids as well.
Then I add a charger to the battery and leave the bike in the (cold) garage for about 4 months.
 
what about changing the transmission oil, final drive oil, etc. I last replaced these oils in June with Amsoil synthetic gear lube oil. Clymer indicates that oils should be changed every 12 months ( prefer. prior to winter storage). So now do I change these fluids again ( I only put on 2500 miles)? This can get expensive.
 
I wonder if products like Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil really work on cleaning the
engine ( by adding to engine oil) or the carburator (by adding to fuel). I have used both and can't tell if sludge, etc. is removed. I usually add to the oil, run the engine for a while then drain the oil. A friend tells me I'm just wasting money.

Seafoam does work in both the fuel & the oil. Read the info on the can when dealing with putting in either the fuel or the oil.

If you have used it once in the oil ( Seafoam is really just a solvent ) and then used good oil and changed it as required, there is little reason to add it again to the oil just before an oil change.

Seafoam works really well in carbs or fuel injectors with small openings. It has been a mainstay of mine for years and I not only add it to the fuel for winter storage but periodically put some in the tank to clean carbs/injectors.

For storage I would either have the fuel tank full or empty, carbs - I'd take the float bowls off and dump the fuel. Water/condensation is your enemy when storing a bike for the winter. If the tank is going to be left full, put the recommended amount of Seafoam in it and run/ take for a ride, then top the tank off so that it is completely full.
 
I think that the problem of the evil sludge is over rated in our MODERN motorcycles. First In many cases it is a combination of not changing oil at proper intervals and a cool running engine without positive crankcase ventilation (PCV). Old non detergent oils are also a friend of sludge. The cool running engine without PCV tends to accumulate water in the crankcase which is also a sludge helper.

We all use modern proper specification oil & filters changed at the recommended intervals, don't we? motorcycle engines tend to run towards the hot particularly on newer ones which with their emission control systems which ventilate the crankcase and discourage moisture development.

Some feel (as I do) that in most cases the minimal amount of material (sludge, metal powder etc from wear) that collects in the sump of MODERN engines will stay there and not be a problem at all. Some also believe that running a solvent in a clean running engine potentially will stir up the crud and send it through the oil system. If you are that worried drop the oil pan & check.

I heard of a fellow who would use a what he called a "waste" quart of new oil. After draining out the old oil he would replace the pan plug, pour in the oil wait a bit & then drain and discard it. A bit anal I think.

Lastly starting up the machine & not running it up to normal operating temperature will also cause excessive moisture contamination of the oil (cold engine again) When the bike is asleep for the winter do not run it for a few minutes from time to time for any reason.
 
I heard of a fellow who would use a what he called a "waste" quart of new oil. After draining out the old oil he would replace the pan plug, pour in the oil wait a bit & then drain and discard it. A bit anal I think.

Well the key word there is waste for sure.

Every time I hear one of these stories I just cringe. Same goes for changing your oil at twice the recommended frequency than recommended by the vehicle maker and thinking it is a good thing. Both ideas are just wasteful nonsense and only serve to hasten the demise of a non renewable resource.
 
One reason is to allow the floats to get out of today's alcohol laden fuel. The alcohol will damage the coating on some floats.

Okay, but if you run ethanol-free fuel is this step still needed, i.e., is that the only reason to drain the bowls?
 
evil sludge is over rated in our MODERN motorcycles... drop the oil pan & check.

I agree... I had the pan off mine to change the weepy gasket (1st time in 24+ years). The interior of the pan was clean- not a drop of sludge.
 
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