These desired variables could potentially make oil testing go on for a decade!
What I got out of the testing, was that oils that were tested years ago and considered good for our airhead engines have since been reformulated (Golden Spectro is no longer an API SG oil) and this test was just to really see how much, if any, they changed, and maybe point out some new good oils that maybe weren't that popular with the BMW community.
At the time of the testing I was using Liqui Moly Racing 20w50 as I buy my oil filters in bulk from Beemer Boneyard and they sell Liqui Moly (I also have been using LM stuff in my cars for years). After I read the test results I'm no longer using it, but instead went back to BMW oil for my winter 10w50 oil and Spectro 4 for my most of the year 20w50 oil - though probably not BMW anymore since Castrol is now making their MC oil. Alot of airhead gurus rave about Golden Spectro and now that its API rating is SL, the testing actually did indicate that it's maybe not as good as it once was, while the synthetics really proved just how well they really are (particularly Redline).
As for the Lucas additives, run a search in the Bobistheoilguy forum and you'll find quite a bit of mixed reviews, some claiming it does more harm than good and others the exact opposite.
Hmmmm.....so? Let's just all religiously change our oil and filters.
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Helmut always wears a Helmet.
MikeS, how much moly have you put in the crankcase? And how many miles have rolled by? More than a few discussions about this topic with stern advice from gurus to"never", (heavy emphasis,) put moly in a BMW motorcycle. Wish a Liqui-Moly expert, the German guy, would explain it.
How big are those little ball bearings of moly? would they be a better slide up the cam ramp than zddp?
"****Do NOT use moly greases in wheel bearings or in the steering head or swing arm bearings. Do NOT use moly greases in the throwout bearing for the clutch. A good rule of thumb is that moly greases do NOT work well in ball bearings, tapered roller bearings, and needle bearings. Moly tends to change to stiff flaky bits in those situations. As a general rule, do not use moly-containing greases, oils, etc., at any place there are rotational speed differences. Moly is GREAT for most SLIDING surfaces. Use moly grease on sliding splines. One exception to using moly is in rear drives and transmissions, where a very specific liquid additive product from Dow Corning can sometimes be helpful, but do NOT use the concentration as printed on the container; more on this in other areas of this website."
going on to say: "A transmission and rear drive oil additive ...do not use with synthetic oils is Dow Corning M Gear Oil Additive. Comes in quart containers. Shake well and use ONLY the concentration I recommend ...and absolutely not the 5-10% Dow suggests on the container. So, I say, use 18 to 20 cc for your transmission that contains 800 cc total oil. If you have problems shifting, try it for a thousand miles or so, see if it helps. If not, you have other problems. It may increase the lifetime for the bearings, etc. ABSOLUTELY do NOT use this product with synthetics, and DO NOT increase the dose! For the rear drive, you can use about 2% or so."
Personally, like I said earlier, I use the LM Moly additive (specific for gear oil - NOT the one made for engines) not Dow Corning. Also, when I use the additive in my trans and fd I don't add what they specify on the tube, I just squirt in a little for added protection. What I have noticed is that the ultra fine sediment (normal) that used to show up on the magnetic drain plug in the trans has gone away once I started using it so it is doing something protective, and I've been using it for years now and I haven't noticed any adverse affects, yet... There's plenty of discussion about this additive on oil forums
Cars are so much easier when it comes to these things, with my VWs I just have to find an oil that meets the VW 502.00/505.00 standard and I'm good to go, unfortunately this doesn't apply to motorcycles, especially the vintage stuff.
I have used MoS2 paste when assembling engines. No adverse efefcts whatsoever. And I wonder why the "gurus" say to never put it in a BMW motorcycle. What is so different in a BMW engine?
Mike, those are my thoughts too, for some time. guess the only way we'll ever know about this additive is if someone dumps some moly in a /6 or /7 and runs it for a couple hundred thousand miles, then takes a look.
Guess the manufacturer already did the testing? Guess we need a chemical lubrication engineer? Or, we could just use 20/50 and forget it. My assembly lube too says it contains moly. Guess I got some moly in my /6 too. Still runs real good and am not sweating it.
This may be coming from my skeptical mind, but I would bet a paycheck on the fact that the relationship between any auto/motorcycle company and virtually any oil/tire/battery/etc. company is 90% business and financial, and about 10% product suitability. Let's face it, there are probably more than a dozen brands out there (each with various suitable products) that would work well with BMW motorcycles.
All one has to do is to follow the money trail. Whatever makes the most profit gets the nod!
I looked at a new bottle this weekend...no indication of who is blending their oil. While I'm sure it meets spec, it didn't leave me with a good feeling not really knowing what's in the bottle. More than likely, I will be voting with my money and going to Spectro in the future.
Personally, I still would like to be able to go to my neighborhood store to purchase a brand name that still works more than adequately. Do 't remember seeing Spectro there!
I don't have any particular brand loyalty, except for my auto, in which, I have used Mobil 1 with Lucas additive from day 1. I also use Lucas' gasoline additive for lube for my injectors. I just tend to like to not be switching brands on any particular vehicle. However, I haven't settled on what to use for my R100.
I also do like Marvel Mystery for some lube applications and Lubriplate for some greases (we tested it where I worked for its lube abilities in ultra cold and ultra hot applications. It stood the test better than anything else that we tested. The Mobil 1 - synthetic grease (red) was the chosen one for production purposes (Lubriplate was probable too expensive to use for everyday production).
Each of us has our favorites!
But this does raise an interesting situation in that many companies market their stuff under a different label.
I wonder just how many real oil refineries there really are in the world - I mean those that can produce high-quality lubricating oil?