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Replacing clutch and various hand control boots?

jbf

New member
Hi all,


I own a bmw r75/5 and I have a few cracked/old boots on my hand controls. The clutch cable themselves/etc all appear to be in good condition still with little wear/etc but the boots either ripping or cracked/etc. Are these replaceable? I do have spares of them so I figured they were but it looks fairly tricky to put on a new boot for some of the hand controls?


Any suggestions/etc?



Also, one other quick question relating to passenger pegs/etc. I noticed that one of the pegs (passenger right peg, if sitting on the bike) is a bit wobbly and seems to be sitting slightly angled backwards. Is this normal? It is fairly floppy/wiggly. Is there a way to fix this or is this fairly normal?
 
I went through this recently, and eventually replaced the cables. However, the boots are easiest to replace where they are attached. Not only is this convenient for boots at the handlebars, but the cable ends are smaller and easier to fit through the rubber boot. The same goes for the speedometer cable boot. One of my 'secrets' is using lighter fluid as a lubricant for such pieces.

I got new cables from EUBMW and they come with new rubber pieces - although that is not stated in their description.
 
I've never been happy with cables that I didn't buy from my dealer. Something about OEM BMW cables...me likes!
 
For me, there is NO need to go to the trouble to replace the cables, especially when they are perhaps 4 or 5 years only and the ends at the controls have been properly maintained. Those rubber bits and pieces just begin to deteriorate after perhaps a couple of years..............Sooooo

I get those parts and others for the older machines quite readily from:

http://www.benchmarkworks.com/

The guys specialize in "factory" parts that are becoming unobtainium. They not only have the parts; but don't mind talking with you about repairs and maintenance..................

Good luck and God bless.........Dennis
 
I went through this recently, and eventually replaced the cables. However, the boots are easiest to replace where they are attached. Not only is this convenient for boots at the handlebars, but the cable ends are smaller and easier to fit through the rubber boot. The same goes for the speedometer cable boot. One of my 'secrets' is using lighter fluid as a lubricant for such pieces.

I got new cables from EUBMW and they come with new rubber pieces - although that is not stated in their description.

So for the throttle/clutch/brake boots its best to replace at the end that attaches to the actual clutch lever/brake lever/etc is what you are saying right? Meaning at the handlebars vs at the other end right?

Oh also, I dont have a clymer manual yet or anything but does this go about explaining exactly how and to what specifications the clutch cables and various cables should be calibrated once reattached?
 
So for the throttle/clutch/brake boots its best to replace at the end that attaches to the actual clutch lever/brake lever/etc is what you are saying right? Meaning at the handlebars vs at the other end right?

Oh also, I dont have a clymer manual yet or anything but does this go about explaining exactly how and to what specifications the clutch cables and various cables should be calibrated once reattached?

Yes, you detach the brake and clutch cables from their levers, and the throttle cables from their mechanism by using not complicated procedures; but definate methods. So called calibration is actually adjusting the clutch, syncing the carbs, and on your /5 with a drum brake some fairly complicated procedures to adjust that drum actuating levers down on the brake itself so you get the excellent braking that drums provide...............

FIND SOMEBODY TO HELP YOU THE FIRST TIME, do a SEARCH on here for each of the above topics, get a work shop manual or Owners Manual, and/or check out "Airheads" to find a local bunch of guys to help you on a tech day...........Good luck.......God bless...........Dennis
 
GREAT article on R75/5 brake adjustment, cable replacement, etc. > http://www.bmwscotter.org/procedures/procedures.htm

Includes this template for aligning the brake arms too.

perfect_arms.jpg


template_on_bike.jpg


Check out the other pages as well.

Also, one other quick question relating to passenger pegs/etc. I noticed that one of the pegs (passenger right peg, if sitting on the bike) is a bit wobbly and seems to be sitting slightly angled backwards. Is this normal? It is fairly floppy/wiggly. Is there a way to fix this or is this fairly normal?

No, it isn't normal. Tighten the nut on the back. If the nut/peg is tight then the "wobbly" is a result of wear on the peg assembly (that allows it to flip up, or down). Don't be shy, take it apart and look.
icon_wink.gif
Post a photo of the offending peg.

edit - sometimes the rubber becomes hard and doesn't exert any pressure on the washer that bears against the bracket. This causes the peg to be "loose" (in the up/down plane (a new rubber might fix the problem, if you can find one.)) it will not affect whether the peg rotates.

46711234661.jpg
 
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