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Boot Care

flyrider

Morning Person
I own and ride in a pair of BMW "Allround" boots. Haven't done anything to them, except wear them. But they're getting a bit soiled, shall we say...

What, if anything, do you riders do to treat your boots? Thanks.
 
I use Langlitz leather dressing. Langlitz is a family business that's been around a long time: http://www.langlitz.com. Their leather dressing works really well to waterproof and keep the leather supple. I've been using it on boots and jackets since the mid-90's. One tub will last you awhile (I bought three some time back- on sale- this is likely a lifetime supply!). http://www.langlitz.com/leather-dressing/
 
I use Kee-Wee wax on mine a few times a year (in black of course..) Keeps them looking quite nice, and the outside surface isn't the primary waterproofing on these boots, the Goretex liner is.
 
I use shoe polish and then after that Saddle soap. Saddle soap cleans the leather, weather proofs and softens the leather. It is for all types of leather applications, such as boots, horse saddles, jackets, hats, etc.....
 

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I use Obenouf's. I have used it on my wildland fire boots for years. I use an old toothbrush to apply. If it's applied a little too thick use a hair dryer to soak it in. Don't get the leather too warm, or you'll risk damage. I have used the Langlitz product on jackets, chaps, etc. It works well. It is however, (I believe) silicone based. I like the beeswax base for my boots. It's thicker and tends to 'clog' the pores.
 
I ride in Aerostich Combat Touring Boots. Though they they are not Gore-Tex lined, they have never leaked despite some pretty torrential downpours and deep puddles.

Once a year I give them a good cleaning then give them a thorough treatment with Sno-Seal. There are a lot of bad leather treatments out there, some excellent ones - in my experience, for leather motorcycle boots, Sno-Seal is the best.
 
clean boots

This may be over kill but I use several steps. Wipe off the boots and then use saddle soap, then a leather cleaner conditoner,(i use lexol, inexpensive and good quality), then a shoe polish conditioner, kiwi wax and the final step, I use mink oil. It perserves the leather and makes them more waterproof.
Not every time, but the beginning and the end of the season for sure. During the season a nice coat of shoe polish, maybe a little kiwi or mink oil and you are good as new.
I have nice Dainese boots and I want to keep them for as long as possible.
 
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I use shoe polish and then after that Saddle soap. Saddle soap cleans the leather, weather proofs and softens the leather. It is for all types of leather applications, such as boots, horse saddles, jackets, hats, etc.....

+1 Saddle soap works great and leaves leather soft and clean. I use it for anything leather.
 
+1 for Sno-Seal. On warm boots (out of the oven), the wax penetrates easily. Especially important for seams.

Shoe polish will dry the leather, and make the seams wear and break.
 
I ride in Aerostich Combat Touring Boots. Though they they are not Gore-Tex lined, they have never leaked despite some pretty torrential downpours and deep puddles.

Once a year I give them a good cleaning then give them a thorough treatment with Sno-Seal. There are a lot of bad leather treatments out there, some excellent ones - in my experience, for leather motorcycle boots, Sno-Seal is the best.

+1
 
Leather boot care

1. I get a little warm water, small brush and saddle soap. Lather up the saddle soap and scrub lightly with the brush. Wipe off and let dry overnight.

2. Next morning I apply Obenhauf's leather preservative, sit the boots in the window in the sun, or sometimes if in a hurry I sit the boots on the dash of my pickup (parked in the sun) so they get good and warmed up!! That helps the Obenhauf's soak into the leather.

3. After a day or so in the sun, wipe down to get any of the Obenhauf's (that hasn't soaked into the leather) off. Then, I might use some shoe wax, i.e. Kiwi black paste wax to restore the uniform color and add a nice shine to the boots.

Then you have boots that are clean, treated with a good preservative to extend the life and shed water, and look good!!
 
Hey guys, the OP mentioned BMW "Allround" boots. Are you sure ANY of the material is real leather? I also own a pair and like them very much. So far I've just cleaned them up with a damp rag. As mentioned, it is Goretex that makes them waterproof and I wonder if of Sno-Seal (or those other fine products) may make your feet sweat on hot days when the untreated material allows moisture to pass out while keeping water out?

I'm certainly no expert and always willing to learn. Have a feeling there is a difference between "real leather" and some of the other materials used in boots. Correct me if I am wrong.
 
BMW All Around boots are made of

Material:
Outer material: approx 1.8 mm thick leather and Cordura?«.
GORE-TEX?« membrane.
Fuel and oil resistant rubber sole.
Protectors:
Shin protector, reinforced rear cap, boot tip and ankle.
Visibility:
Reflective material at the heels.
Logo:
BMW Motorrad embossed at the shaft.
GORE-TEX?« symbol at the shaft

I have a pair. I wear them. The zipper is breaking down, but they have never leaked in any downpour, no matter if it is 8 hrs or more. Great boots. Cleaning? What's that?
 
I like Pecard Oil. Sno-Seal is good to, but I don't like how it leaves things a little sticky, and attracts dust from the type of roads I'm usually on.
 
Gore-Tex breathing

I have wondered if the idea of Gore-Tex is to let the product breathe why coat the outside of the boot. ?

If you put waterpoofing on top of the leather you might as well have a plastic liner that waterproof but does not allow beathing.

Thoughts ?
 
That's true, but you don't want the leather to become saturated with water. It's a long process to dry it out completely, your feet will be cold, the boots heavy, and having water-logged leather against the GoreTex keeps it from breathing. Plus you will squish when you walk - embarrassing! Products that plug-up the leather's pores aren't good either. That's why products like saddle soap and leather conditioners work to repel water (not waterproof it) and protect the leather but retain its breathability.

Aerostich has an explanation of why DWR (durable water repellent) is important on the outside of a GoreTex textile jacket. Same principle, I believe.

pete

"Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend. Inside of a dog it's too dark to read." -Groucho Marx
 
According to the makers of SNO-SEAL
It does not inhibit the breathability of the leather

It works for me


SNO-SEAL
ÔÇóEnjoy dry feet all day!
ÔÇóPrevents water from penetrating leather.
ÔÇóLubricates and conditions leather without softening.
ÔÇóPreserves and lengthens the life of leather.
ÔÇóDoes not interfere with the natural breathability of leather.
ÔÇóExtremely resistant to salt stains and spotting.
ÔÇóDoes not soften heel counters or box toes.
ÔÇóWill not damage seams or welts.
ÔÇóMaintains flexibility in freezing temperatures.
ÔÇóWill not crack during continual flexing of leather
 
Sno Seal is a good product, when the other methods of melting the wax (sun, Oven) aren't available, I use a hair dryer to melt the wax so that it quickly absorbs into the leather. Several coats can be applied in a short time & while the wax is liquefied by the heat you can make certain that it flows into the seams nicely.

I also believe that a "shoe dryer" such as a Peet or a knock off sold by Harbor Freight keeps the boot nice and dry from perspiration or whatever. Moisture retained in the boot/shoe cannot be good for it or you. Dry feet don't smell as bad as wet, & removing the moisture helps avoid foot fungus.

Warm dry boots are one of life's little luxuries.

I don't know how Sno Seal can seal the leather to keep moisture out while at the same time allow the leather to breathe.
 
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