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Thread: R1200R Where to tap the CenTech relay wire?

  1. #1
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    R1200R Where to tap the CenTech relay wire?

    I'm installing the CenTech AP-2 fuse block and relay into my wife's 2012 R1200R and need a good suggestion as to where to tap in the orange relay wire. My current plan is to use the hot lead into the accessory plug (the one used for rider electrics, etc.). It is accessible and I don't think it will screw up the R's system.

    Any other ideas/thoughts?...

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Touring Panpsychist Theo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwestly View Post
    {snip}...Any other ideas/thoughts?...

    Thanks!


    That's what I've done on the RT and it works out well. As an added bonus, the CANbus doesn't drop power until about a minute after the ignition is off so my fork lights provide some light in the garage to find the house door at night!
    Theo

    2009 R1200RT, 2007 Shadow Aero 750 (sold)
    2012 MINI Countryman S, 2004 MINI Cooper S JCW, 2000 BMW 328i

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    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwestly View Post
    I'm installing the CenTech AP-2 fuse block and relay into my wife's 2012 R1200R and need a good suggestion as to where to tap in the orange relay wire. My current plan is to use the hot lead into the accessory plug (the one used for rider electrics, etc.). It is accessible and I don't think it will screw up the R's system.

    Any other ideas/thoughts?...

    Thanks!
    This always looked like a good way to me- into the parking light.



    From Twisted Throttle- http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2868

    This Best of Forum had some good ideas. OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
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  4. #4
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    Thanks. I went ahead and tapped the power lead in the accessory plug and it worked out well. As you noted, the CANbus keeps the power on for about a minute after ignition off. Works perfectly! I'll be doing the same to my '12 1200GS as soon as the parts arrive...

  5. #5
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    Here's the Centech and relay install... I used white zip ties to separate them from factory installed wire ties.


  6. #6
    Insatiable Cruiser rtwiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwestly View Post
    Thanks. I went ahead and tapped the power lead in the accessory plug and it worked out well. As you noted, the CANbus keeps the power on for about a minute after ignition off. Works perfectly! I'll be doing the same to my '12 1200GS as soon as the parts arrive...
    Here's the thing about that setup...

    Your Centech accessory plug box will be cut off by the bike's Canbus system if you use more than about 10 amps total. The bike's accessory circuit is basically the same as wire with a 10 amp fuse on it except you don't replace any fuses, you just shut the bike off and turn it back on to reset. You've hooked that 10 amp wire to a box with 3 10 amp fuses plus a 3 amp and a 5 amp.

    When you start using more than 10 amps total through the Centech box, the bike's Canbus system will cut off the power to the accessory circuit and your box will have no power until you shut off the bike and restart. If you continue to have more than a 10 amp load on the box, Canbus will keep shutting off the power.

    The correct way to wire one of these boxes is with fused wire directly from the battery. Use a 40 amp fuse directly after the battery's positive lead for this wire. This big fuse will protect the wire from shorting on the frame as it runs to your box. Now you've got power for accessories that will not be screwing up the proper function of the Canbus system.

    If you only want to power GPS, Radar Detector and things, it doesn't matter...All that stuff usually totals less than 5 amps....but then, you don't really need a fusebox either. You can just wire stuff directly to the accessory plug circuit...It's already "fused" by Canbus.

    If you start putting higher powered lights and heated gear on, you'll run into this "Canbus shutting down the Centech box" problem.

    Make sure the charging system will handle the load you plan to put on it. The capacity of the alternator is listed in the manual. Also, if you use a higher electrical load a lot, make sure you replace the alternator belt at the recommended intervals. The new style belts look brand new until they fail.

  7. #7
    Registered User lkraus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtwiz View Post
    Here's the thing about that setup...

    Your Centech accessory plug box will be cut off by the bike's Canbus system if you use more than about 10 amps total. The bike's accessory circuit is basically the same as wire with a 10 amp fuse on it except you don't replace any fuses, you just shut the bike off and turn it back on to reset. You've hooked that 10 amp wire to a box with 3 10 amp fuses plus a 3 amp and a 5 amp.
    Ummm... I think the OP is proposing to use the accessory plug only as a trigger for the relay that activates the switched circuits, drawing only fractional amps.


    Larry

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    Honey Badger Semper_Fi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lkraus View Post
    Ummm... I think the OP is proposing to use the accessory plug only as a trigger for the relay that activates the switched circuits, drawing only fractional amps.


    Larry
    +1

    Which by the way is the correct way to set up

    The trigger is only for activting the coil which is doing the heavy lifting on the current load
    2011 R1200 GSA Smoke Grey Metallic Matt
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  9. #9
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    Correct. The accessory plug only triggers the relay. I'm only running my GPS and an Adaptix radar detector off of the box. This allows me to have the auto shut-off without worrying about drawing too much thru the CANbus. At least I think that's the way it works...

    Thanks for all the insight!

  10. #10
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    I used the orange tail light feed for the trigger, you can also use the bike's accessory plug as a feed since both are activated by the ignition. The 40 amp (i used a 30amp) power feed to the box from the battery is the best power feed.

    On my bike, I switched the accessory plug from the bike's system to the "always hot" leads on the accessory box, that way I can use my Battery Tender to charge the battery without going through the can/bus system.

  11. #11
    Insatiable Cruiser rtwiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomBarnhart View Post
    I used the orange tail light feed for the trigger, you can also use the bike's accessory plug as a feed since both are activated by the ignition. The 40 amp (i used a 30amp) power feed to the box from the battery is the best power feed.

    On my bike, I switched the accessory plug from the bike's system to the "always hot" leads on the accessory box, that way I can use my Battery Tender to charge the battery without going through the can/bus system.
    All:

    Sorry about that! I was unaware of the relay aspect of these boxes. Now I finally understand the point of them.

    I would think you'd want different triggers for different circuits though...especially in the case of using them for lighting. Is it possible to set one Cantech circuit relay on the accessory circuit and another on a switch for aux lighting or is there only one relay on these boxes?

    I have a dual thermostat for my heated gear that plugs into a fused SAE cord directly into the battery. When I leave the bike, I just turn off the two thermostats. With it unplugged from the suit, the only power drawn is for the LEDs if I forget. The SAE fused cord has a rubber plug to cap it off when not in use and that just stays under the seat during the summer. For built-in GPS on Gadget Guys mount and a built in Valentine 1, I tapped into the wires going to the accessory plug. For my iPod, I use the actual accessory plug with a cigar lighter adapter to a car charger that runs a wire into my tank bag. That gear unplugs and stuffs into the tank bag when I need to remove it.

    I don't use aux lighting. If you depend on that stuff to get you through the woods alone at night on a regular basis, you're going to have a problem eventually anyway. Safer to follow a truck. If you use it on the road, it needs to be subtle or you're going to make people upset...like, for instance, me if you're riding behind me.

    I said 40 amp because the fuses are 10+10+10+5+3 = 38 amps. 30 is probably just fine for most people.

  12. #12
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtwiz View Post
    All:

    Sorry about that! I was unaware of the relay aspect of these boxes. Now I finally understand the point of them.

    I would think you'd want different triggers for different circuits though...especially in the case of using them for lighting. Is it possible to set one Cantech circuit relay on the accessory circuit and another on a switch for aux lighting or is there only one relay on these boxes?
    I don't believe Centech offers that, but they might now. I had a Centech on my R1200R - it's been replaced by.. ummm (have to go look.. hang on..) FuzeBlock - which has a built in relay, and allows you to set any circuit on it to switched with the relay OR always on. http://www.fuzeblocks.com/index.php

    Nice device (no affiliation, etc.. etc..) And solved a problem I had with the Centech box.



    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders
    '12 R1200R - I love this bike!

  13. #13
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    There is only one relay on the Centex box. There are 5 or 6 positions on the Centex. Two of these are "hot" all the time, the others are controlled by the relay. For example on my bike:

    Hot (always on) Terminals-- GPS, Factory installed Auxiliary Outlet ( see previous note about disconnecting this from its original connection) for Battery Tender or whatever else,

    Relay Controlled Terminals--Radar Detector, Auxiliary Lights, Directly wired feed for Gerbings heated jacket, second Auxiliary outlet on handlebars,

    With this set-up I always have the GPS powered up and can connect the Battery tender without going through the Can/bus system. The advantage of the items controlled by the relay mean that when I turn the ignition off I do not have to worry about the lights or heated jacket draining the battery. It also ensures that the system will not trip when the draw through the factory-installed exceeds the set spec-some bikes it is 7 amp and others it is as much as 10 amps.

  14. #14
    Registered User labman1's Avatar
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    Parking light for switch 1200 rt 2008

    Is the parking light located behind the mirror and do I have to remove all of the instrument panel to gain access to it? I plan on installing the twisted throttle plug I know the tupperware has to come off just question the instrument panel. If I was to use the GPS plug in the front and tap it can that be reached without instrument removal?

    Thanks

  15. #15
    Insatiable Cruiser rtwiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by labman1 View Post
    Is the parking light located behind the mirror and do I have to remove all of the instrument panel to gain access to it? I plan on installing the twisted throttle plug I know the tupperware has to come off just question the instrument panel. If I was to use the GPS plug in the front and tap it can that be reached without instrument removal?

    Thanks
    Those little parking lights are sort of behind the mirror. I couldn't reach them even with mirrors out and a lot of other stuff. If I had not needed to remove the nose for something else, I'd not have bothered changing mine.

    It's possible a good BMW tech may be able to change the bulbs without any disassembly or with only a little disassembly. I'd ask how much labor to change them before digging in without documentation on the procedure.

    I took the whole nose off the bike...yes you have to remove the windscreen, the side mirrors, the side covers, the instrument panel surround, but not the gages themselves. It really helps to have a BMW DVD and/or a shop manual or the Service CDs. Hard to describe how it all comes apart here.

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